mscdman

Just wanted to say hot tub was delivered today. Haven’t yet got off alL the sides because I need a square bit but from what I CAN see, it looks fairly well insulated. No full foam but doesn’t look particularly skimpy either. I may still add a small bat insulation and touch up those areas up top that are empty of foam with some spray foam from home depot

Thank you guys! Really appreciate it

So you’d recommend leaving my tub as partially foamed as it comes from the factory? It currently has about 3/4 filled open cell..... was concerned about heat loss from cabinet in the colder denver CO winter

Pretty upset. Wasn’t told that full foam was an option on my purchase until I got it. It has only partial foam insulation. As a result, I’d like to add more foam spray on insulation. Is this advised? Should I use open or closed cell spray foam?

220v. Real spa. Not blow up or inflatable.

I have a Natural gas tankless water heater that I can lower the hot water output to 90F or less if I mix with cold water I’m wondering if it might make more financial sense to fill the hot tub with hot water from my faucet to the tub and heat up the 200 gallon hot tub that way vs heating electricity from a cold tap how spigot. If not straight 98 from the tap with the gas water heater, I could mix in cold water so the filling water start temp is 80-90 degrees vs super duper cold coming from the hose spigot outside im concerned mostly with COSTS. Gas seems way cheaper than electricity My guess is this might be way cheaper for the intial start up. Thoughts? electrical rates in CO after fees etc are about .11 cents per KWh in winter and .13 KWH in summer. Natural gas rates are about .75 cents/therm. i don’t have a water softener or anything so the source of the fill water is exactly the same.

Realistically if I’m using this to manually shock after each use 1/2 tsp along with my sodium bromide added at start up how fast will CYA build up? is this over kill? Maybe I should establish a bromide reserve and use MPS after each use and then add the below once a week (it also adds a little bromine bank too) https://spaandpoolstore.com/spa-essentials-brominating-concentrate-2-lbs-16-99-32362000/

This is the new plan ^^ exactly. Re-route INSIDE the soffit and drop down the wall around the corner. Line of sight is Iffy with the gate there but I’d at least feel comfortable using the tub with the box mounted on the wall around the corner vs sitting right next to the tub

I guess my only safe option at this point is to: 1) at the top of my soffit on the wall (10ft up)where the disconnect currently resides reroute wire and conduit towards, around the corner and behind the fence To do this will need a water tight junction box somewhere up there to splice in the needed wire and conduit 2) about 3-4 feet behind the fence come down with conduit so about 6 foot to top of disconnect box and install there 3) route conduit BACK towards the fence and THROUGH the left fence post to the wall and down to the rubber conduit tail that goes to the spa. it’s not technically line of sight but would be at least 5 feet away from the tub this new way + around the corner. Would still have that water tight junction box on that spa wall but it would be 10ft in the air and hopefully tight enough so no steam and or splashes would get there. thoughts on this approach

See embedded responses above.

Excellent. So then that should be relatively safe being up that high (10ft) with a water tight junction box and the conduit rerouted to the side behind the fence and putting the GFCI disconnect there?

Left side is another patio but that sunroom is 100 ft long. question: If I re-route to behind the fence, there would likely need to be a junction box installed up near the soffit to splice the wires. It would be about 10ft off the ground thoigh. Is is a concern if the rising steam from the tub going up to the top of the wall/soffit and getting in that potential new junction box up there or is that safe?

220v hard wired

I’m not worried about the inspector as much as as I am safety. I don’t want to get electrocuted from a splash oR the hot tub steam rising near that box. I wasn’t even planning a permit. When you say to the “left” it depends what way you face. If you mean beyond the gate it’s just a brick wall/exterior of my garage. what about re-routing the conduit like the below photo to the other wall behind the fence? The only other issue there is that since the wire is already pulled through the conduit to the GFCI box I presume he would need to create a junction box somewhere on this wall anyway to re-route the conduit and splice the wires and wouldn’t a junction box on this wall where the GFCI is be just as bad as the Risk of electrocution from the GFCI box?

Hello. I’m having a last minute panic attack. My hot tub delivery is coming 12/30 and I’m extremely concerned about something: Below is a photo of the pad for my hot tub and the electrical disconnect GFCI box. This box is located on the brick wall and will be only 2ft behind the hot tub (which is on the gravel box I built) and also the cover will open toward this brick wall and the cover when open will fall/lay very close to the spa disconnect GFCI box (I.e the cover opens toward the brick wall) Im fully aware that this is not to state code which states the box must be located at least 5 feet from the tub and line of sight. However, there simply is no where the GFCI box can be moved so It is 5ft away from the tub unless I went around the corner of the house behind my fence gate (in the photo) with the conduit and then back up/around that fence post on the right in the photo. Now - I’m not as much worried about code violations or fines or anything but.... Where it is at now, Im VERY worried about the steam rising from the tub or a splash causing a ground to the tub and causing electrocution from that box the water in the tub (and me). Am I right to be freaking out about this with the steam rising up toward that Box or a splash? if so, any advice on how I could make this work/re-route any of the conduit? If I can’t find a way to make it work I don’t even know if I can cancel the fully paid order at this point in time.... photo below.

@RDspaguy when you say switch to liquid you mean bleach vs dichlor? How much bleach is added as a shock?

Ok I’ve been reading about how dichlor use builds up CYA in a hot tub making the chlorine less effective. But what if I’m using a bromine sanitizer and dichlor shock? Do I have to worry about CYA affecting the effectiveness of bromine or is this only a chlorine sanitizer issue? Would the build up of CYA from me shocking with the 1/2 tsp of dichlor shock after every use (vs me keeping a bromine tablet floater always in use) cause any issues?

@Ahhsomeguy oh. So fill and balance PH/alkalinity right? Then add shock. Then add awesome and water can be cold? Turn on jets?

So then is the new startup procedure: 1) fill hot tub with water 2) fully heat water (to what temp?) 3) add ahhsom 4) clean, drain 5) refill 6) heat again 7) add chemicals and test then use?

@Ahhsomeguy do you advise a need to purge/clean with your product prior to use of a brand new factory delivered tub? Or is it typically okay to fill heat chemical adjust and use right away? also - does ahhsume need to be use only when the water is fully warmed. I only ask because if yes the water needs to be hot and I should purge prior to my first use it would mean waiting 4-6 hours to heat the tub on 1st fill only to have to drain right away and refill again. What do you advise for tubs on a first time start up? @RDspaguywhat do you think about purging prior to using the new tub being delivered?

I’m now wondering if I should try using this “rest” mode as my default. Sounds like it may help with energy usage? —— running the unit in “Ready” mode will ensure the spa is at full temperature and ready for use at any time. Running the unit in “Rest” mode will only allow the spa to heat during a scheduled filtration cycle. ——- would you advise using this “rest mode”. Is it the equivalent of an “eco” mode?

Incidentally, do I want a 24/7 circ pump if it has one and should I use rhat?

It’s a 200 gallon 3 person marquis vector V65. It has 2/2 but I don’t know if it’s a 24 circ pump. I will ask tomorrow. im last minute panicking about the electrical use. The guide says 13.77 a month but that’s for 70 degree ambient temp so I know that’s BS for denver and is a sales pitch. I’m in denver and it’s in a shaded spot. Winters average 30 degrees (ish). KWH 12cents. Probably use it 3 days a week for about 30 minutes each I’m reading horror stories about $100 a month in winter and that’s not going to work for me and I’d rather cancel

Hello my new hot tub is getting delivered next week! One question that I wanted to ask was what should I be changing the factory default filtration setting of two times per day at two hours per day of filtration plus one clean cycle? I’m looking to have optimal electricity saving while still having the hot tub be properly cleaned. Is there any recommendations assuming I have the ability to change the default settings? what all do you do to save on electrical use in the winter? It’s going to be outside in a shaded area so can be cold in the winter in denver.

Thanks everyone. I think I’ve got a plan. Going to use that Ace pump in the link above and the hose (not the blue one) in the link above. the plan is to pump to this downspout which has underground piping that discharges towards the street in front of my house.