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1bad88

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  1. You might want to be careful about how you ask such questions, some people around here are unfriendly to this topic What are you trying to accomplish by tracking your cabinet temperature? Are you trying to make sure that your motors don't overheat, prevent freezing, or are you thinking about measuring energy loss (too many variables to track with any sort of accuracy)? -J
  2. Tom, Thank you for the response. I tried to start with a vary basic problem and I was basing all of my calculations strictly on energy transfer through a simple surface area. I did say wall, but the example is just total surface area through which the energy is transferred, and it all assumes that all the transfer is even. I haven't ever taken a Thermodynamics course, so there's a lot I don't know. The numbers that I used were contrived, so if the resulting thermal conductivity (0.0297 W/M*K) happens to match any material it was pure dumb luck. Best Regards, -J
  3. I put the thermometer in my cabinet for the same reasons. I put the display in a place that I look at a couple of times a day so I can see if there is an equipment malfunction, breaker that needs to be reset, ect.; I figured it was $10 in cheap insurance. -J
  4. I hadn't actually heard that one before, so I got the google machine fired up to give me this answer: The solubility of gases in liquids decreases as the temperature rises. So you get fewer air bubbles to cloud the ice. So, does this insolubility cause a decrease in surface tension, or is it the other way around? I learn something new every day on this board. Do you have a simple formula for determining the R value that you got for the walls of your Great Lakes tub, or were you just adding up the R values from each material that you added? -J
  5. I made up the following scenario to practice calculating R value, this is assuming constant outside temp and power off, constant pressure, constant volume, and a monotomic gas to keep things simple. I think that I did something wrong, my answer seems low. Outside Temp = 30 F Inside Initial Temp = 90 F Inside Final Temp = 60 F Time period = 1 hr 4 side walls at 3' X 8' Estimated air volume = 70 ft^3 = 1982179 cc material thickness = 0.75" Convert from F to K, subtract Temp final K from Temp initial K (16.5) multiply delta T (in K) by 0.001297 J/cm^3 * K(specific heat of air at sea level) and 1982179 cc to get joules of energy transfer required to decrease the temperature of the body of air inside the cabinet divide by 3600 seconds to get watts (550) divide watts by [area (10.7) X temperature differential (33)] multiply this answer by material thickness (0.01905) in meters to get thermal conductivity of the walls (0.0297 W/M*K) Divide material thickness by thermal conductivity to get R value of 0.64 Does that sound right? Thanks, -J
  6. I would like to apologize to Roger and Spatech. I shouldn't have let that other guy get under my skin. You two have given me tons of great advice and information in the past and I appreciate it. Thanks for putting things in perspective Drew. Roger, your posts on this board are very technical and I appreciate that you take the time to type out the long explanations to educate those of us who are less educated. Although I appreciate your offer, I don't have the time to browse 39 pages of data, that is a lot more detailed than the daily spreadsheet that I started working on.
  7. Thanks for the advice spatech, you usually give me straight answers. I'm not looking for anything scientific here, I am just curious to see what others have seen and I realize that their data has no application to mine. I'm going to keep track of my own data and base my actions on that information regardless of what response I get here. I just thought it was unhelpful to be criticized for having curiosity about the world around me.
  8. I'm sorry that I even brought this up since no one has a legitimate answer. I just brought this up out of f*** curiousity, not to get crucified for it. Honestly, are you people like this? How come you can't just say, hey, I measure it at this point and it fluctuates from this temp to this temp during the day when the out door temp is XX degrees. Why bother wasting your time and my time if you can't post an answer that is helpful? If you don't have an answer move on, otherwise what is the point? I've gotten some very helpful answers in the past from people, but three replies and none of them are constructive? Here's a tip, the next time you feel like posting some pithy comment, or a post that you feel shows your superiority over someone without the experience leve that you have, take it, polish it up till it is nice and shiny, turn it sideways, and shove it up your a**! How about that?
  9. The crux of my question relates to baselines that others have, not necessarily what the numbers are. It is a full foam spa with a 6-4 cover and without a 24 hour circulation pump. I am going to see what my electric bills are once things level out over the next couple of months. I just like running numbers, so I'm not sure that this will go anywhere. I'm just driven by curiousity every now and then. -J
  10. I'm not sure if anyone here has commented on spa-boards.com before, so I thought that I would share my experience with them. I am writing this to say that I am happy and satisfied with my experience with this company, but it is up to you to make an informed final decision on what is the best solution for your situation. About a month ago, I communicated with the owner Jim regarding some timing issues that I was experiencing with my spa control board, and over several prompt exchanges, we decided that it would be beneficial to send the board in for testing and repair. The process starts with a form that you fill out to get assigned a repair order number. This number is emailed to you, and then you send in your board with this number attached. I plastered this number all over the box; I wanted to ensure that it wasn't missed. I followed the customer portal for the next couple of days to track the progress of my repair. The customer portal on this site is extremely well designed and executed. The end result was that Jim was unable to replicate the issue that I had described, so he sent the board back to me. I received the board in better condition than I sent it out (he gave it a basic cleaning). I then installed the board and started my spa. At this point, I was unable to replicate the timing issues, so I probably just had a bad connection that was resolved during uninstallation and reinstallation. If and when my relays go out, I will trust spa-boards.com to repair or rebuild my board. I like the quality of his work, which can be seen on his site, and his excellent customer service. This company fills a good niche for the person who can pull their own board and send it in to be serviced at a price that is half of what a new board would cost. Enjoy your tub! -J
  11. For those of you who monitor your cabinet temperature, I am looking to get data on whether or not I need to insulate my cabinet better. Right now I am averaging 86 degrees F in my cabinet (this increases to 97+ degrees during use) with an outdoor temperature of 24 degree F average 10-15 mph winds and I keep my water temp set at 104 degrees F. Please let me know what your baselines are. Cheers, -J
  12. Sherman66, Is the pump still running after the capacitor replacement? Which cap did you replace, the one on the top or the one on the back of the motor? -J
  13. Thanks Spatech, In regards to question #2, I have been having a problem with my pump overheating if I take my jet bodies out of the tub and let it run a filter cycle, could this just be a coincidence and that there is a bad spot on the motor comutator? If the pump overheats it won't restart it just turns on (no rotation just humming) and then overheats and shuts off, until I run the second pump for a couple of seconds.
  14. Richard, Is the 7 teaspoons of MPS needed per person/hour of soaking the correct dosage if you are using a bromine feeder system, or is this only for a chlorine based system? -J
  15. It's a shame that the forum software doesn't allow verifying IP's against a RBL. You guys are doing a good job keeping it down though. THANK YOU volunteer moderators
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