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caliskier

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About caliskier

  • Birthday 01/15/1975

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    Oklahoma

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  1. You need to verify the timer is getting voltage with a meter. make sure the power wires are on the coil side of the timer and not the contacts. The coil should have a picture of a circle Yes, the wires are hooked up correctly, because twisting the timer past the on switch powers the spa. So it must be the voltage to the clock motor right? I am going to shut it down at the main so I do not kill myself and then hook up the meter. I will hook up the meter by pulling the two wires from clock and then push the pins into those femail plugs, then turn the switch at the main back on. My spa is 220. To make sure I am measuring correctly, what voltage setting do I turn my volt meter to? Use the highest setting for AC volts. Mine has a 200 and 500 volt setting. If it a diehl timer they used to put a little hole in the back to see if the gears are moving. You could have a bad timer even if its new I edited this, I stated before that I did not get a voltage, but actually I was measuring the wrong side of the timer. I get 122.7 Volts going to the timer motor. So I guess the switch is bad? But my other concern is if I have the correct timer to begin with. Here are the specs of my old and new timers. OLD: Single Pole Single Throw 20 Amp. “R” 120-277V. AC; 1250 W (10A) “T” 125V. AC; 16FLA, 72LRA, 120V. AC; 12 FLA, 2HP, 240V. AC NEW: SPST 20 Amp “R” 120-277V. VAC, 1800 W. (15A) “T”, 120VAC, 1 H.P. – 120VAC 2HP -240 VAC. 360 VA 120/240 VAC Is the new timer compatable, could that be my problem?
  2. You said you were looking at the home... So it isn't yours? Are you considering purchasing this home? Why not ask the home owner to deal with it as part of the contract, or reduce the cost of the house the value of the tub, then go buy a new one when you move in. I'm not a realitor, but that is what I would try to get worked into the contract before buying the house, if it bugs you it probably bugs other buyers. Not all imporvments bring value to the home, some take away. I agree that cutting it in half is unlikely to work... not to mention if it did work you might have small leaks, but at the least you would end up with a nice scar, making it a complaint you will get from potential buyers if you still have the tub when you want to sell the house. If you destroy it, consider selling the good parts on eBay, at least you will get some money back for it, though it may not be much.
  3. You need to verify the timer is getting voltage with a meter. make sure the power wires are on the coil side of the timer and not the contacts. The coil should have a picture of a circle Yes, the wires are hooked up correctly, because twisting the timer past the on switch powers the spa. So it must be the voltage to the clock motor right? I am going to shut it down at the main so I do not kill myself and then hook up the meter. I will hook up the meter by pulling the two wires from clock and then push the pins into those femail plugs, then turn the switch at the main back on. My spa is 220. To make sure I am measuring correctly, what voltage setting do I turn my volt meter to?
  4. My old spa timer would work part of the time, in the winter and summer it seamed to not kick over to start the spa. In the spring and fall it seams to work fine. So this summer I noticed the spa not coming on again. The timer gets stuck at the on position and does not kick it over to turn it on. I replaced it with a new one and it does not even seem to move. Anyone know how I can trouble shoot this next? Thanks!
  5. Yes, All the spas I see using a timer to turn something on generally energize a coil to a relay. The coil take very little electric to be engerized. When coil is energized is moves a plunger that have heavy duty contacts that a pump or heater connect to. You will be ok Thanks for your help, thought so but wnated to be sure before I burn down my house.
  6. My timer stopped working and so I purchased a new one. I pulled the old one off and here are the specs of the old one: (It is likely at least 15 years old) Single Pole Single Throw 20 Amp. “R” 120-277V. AC; 1250 W (10A) “T” 125V. AC; 16FLA, 72LRA, 120V. AC; 12 FLA, 2HP, 240V. AC The New one has: SPST 20 Amp “R” 120-277V. VAC, 1800 W. (15A) “T”, 120VAC, 1 H.P. – 120VAC 2HP -240 VAC. 360 VA 120/240 VAC I know a little about electrical, know what most of the symbols mean and I think I am ok with using the new one as it is 20 Amp and 102-277V. Just concerned about the wattage rating, I am thinking because the new one is higher it will be fine, and the “T” stuff is a little different. Don’t know what the “R” and “T” mean. The simple question is, will I be ok with the new timer? Thanks.
  7. Click... ... ... woo hoo, it is working, I guess the old take it apart and put it back together trick worked.
  8. Well, I got home and did what I said I would do. There is 120V going to the timer. The back of the timer says it should be 120V so it is getting power. Next I took the timer apart and powered the moter via an old cord pluged into the wall. The moter runs. Then I put it back together, but not back in the hottub, and let it sit powered up at the point where it is about to kick on the pump. I let it sit for 10-20 min, not really sure, but it seams to stall there. The motor looks to be very clean, I am wondering though if it does not have the strength to turn the pump on. Does that make sence, can the motor be wareing out and not have the power to flip over the switch to turn on the pump?
  9. I guess I could cut the power, pull the unit, hookup my multimeter, restore power, read the meter, cut power, remove meter. Then pull apart the clock and see what is mucking up the gears, maybe it just needs some grease, and that would cost all of nothing.
  10. If your pump timer is getting the proper voltage, but not moving the timer is bad. Try spadepot.com for parts. I will check spadepot, nervous about checking voltage on 220 though , is there a way to check resistance or something with the power off. Probabley the clock motor or clock gears have gone bad. Power it up and see if you hear the clock. There is no more amperage in the 220 line than there is in a 110 line. Check for power to the clock. We carry the clocks in stock at all times. Common issue. I'm just not comfortable testing a live 220, 110 or anything like that, I might as well just buy it and see. If there was a way to test it via resistance, I can pull it off and check that, I would rather do that. I don't do a lot of electrical troubleshooting and I do know that it takes less than 1 amp to kill you. Plus, my extended family is on a nice vacation right now, probably piss them off if I go and die and make them come back early.
  11. If your pump timer is getting the proper voltage, but not moving the timer is bad. Try spadepot.com for parts. I will check spadepot, nervous about checking voltage on 220 though , is there a way to check resistance or something with the power off.
  12. The temp timer is working, so I got that. Still looking for some help on how to troubleshoot the pump timer. Also need a cheap parts dealer, any suggestions? Any help would be greatly apprectiated.
  13. Well, sounds like the factory needs to work on quality control a bit, but at least they are making it right and that is a good thing. Glad they are taking care of you.
  14. I have had two tubs, but they both came with the homes I bought, and I have never seen grease in my tub, so I do not know if that is normal on a new tub, but I am guessing not as the ones on display at the dealer are all new and don’t have oil slicks. From your very first sentence it sounds like you got the tub and used it the same day, so I am assuming that it did not run very much from the time you got it until you used it, not giving it enough time to flush out whatever was in the equipment. What I am guessing happened is that something was not clean when your tub was put together and I don’t think the dealer wants to admit that. That quick “it’s your water” comment sounds like they are trying to get the attention off themselves; has your bath tub ever done that? Anyway my guess is that there is something in the system that shouldn’t be and needs to flushed out, and it sounds like that is what they are trying to do for you. I would guess that you might have better luck once they put the flush stuff in and you change the water, you might have to do a couple of water changes. I would hope that they arn't trying to charge you for this, unless you have seen grease spots on your dishes after you run your dish washer. If it comes up again it would be funny to hear why they think it’s your water. If they treat you bad, tell everyone here about it and send them the link, tell them the next thing you are going to do is show up on Saturday with signs.
  15. Hi, Did a search and could not find this. Went out to change the water on my spa today and noticed that the pump timer was not on the right time so I moved it to the right time and came back out 3 hours later to see it in the same spot. So something is wrong, either the timer isn’t getting any power or it is broken. The other features on the spa seam to be running fine, don’t know about the temp timer. Can anyone tell me how to troubleshoot it to see if it is the timer itself or if it is just not getting any power? I own a multimeter, just need some pointers The timer looks like one of these Except it is blue, it is a 220 Volt setup.
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