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Is this it Scott? I may already own one. So I plug the hole 24" down in the water with this and then blow through the disconnected line up at the filter back through this gizmo. How do I know when it's empty? Is this a plug that allows water/air to flow one way and then closes or do I have to pull it out and put it back in? Thanks for the help,I've been dropping this water 3 feet every year and then refilling,didn't know there was a better way. http://www.poolweb.com/SUPER-DUPER-GIZZMO-18

Scott,is this what you mean? Are you saying to install this at the suction port in the water and then blow through from the above ground end? I guess I'm confused. This line is 24" below the skimmer but is not connected to the skimmer at all.Thanks for your response. http://www.epoolshop.com/16skim-insureskimmerproductionwblowoutext.aspx

It is my thinking, that if he line is 2 feet below he skimmer you should not have to blow it out. The frost line here is 48 inches below grade and the line runs about 24" below grade for 16 feet.

I have 2 separate suction lines. One is through the skimmer and the other is 2 feet below skimmer. How do I clear the bottom suction line of water without draining the pool below that port and then having to refill the pool again? Thanks.

There's resistance to flow somewhere. What was the normal pressure? Checked the Filter manifold? Pump impeller/basket? Suction ports? Air leaks?

It was an existing quarter sized tear/patch and the Aquabot is suspected of elongating the tear horizontally. The liner is 15 years old. Just looking for an idea to prevent it from cleaning this 6 inch area and if there was any patch kit that is better than the rest. Also,is patch tape any good?

I had a small tear in my vinyl liner 2 inches below the coping that was previously patched. Today I noticed the tear is now 6 inches long. I glued on a large patch. I suspect the Aquabot ripped it. Any suggestions to keep the aquabot away from there? Any suggestions or opinions on patch tape? Best patch repair kit? Thanks.

Fix that and i think you will be good to go. Appreciate all the help.

When head on the pump increases, Vacuum (Hg) decreases. Lets say for a moment, the filter is a 2 way valve. When you start to close the valve (filter getting dirty), the pumps ability to draw the same amount of water decreases (no place for the water to go). You will get a differential, but most of the gain is on the pressure or outlet side of the pump. I found the pump basket sucking air beneath one of the knobs which was cracked,this took care of most of the issue. Still sucking a little air at one of the ball valves but everything is much better. Thanks. None of my fittings are tefloned or caulked.

Here's a pump sizing formula. http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-pump-sizing-2.shtml

I recently increased my pipes from 1.5 to 2" and e-mailed Hayward about pump size,here is the response. When you are replacing your plumbing lines you do not need to increase your pump size. You want to make sure your filter can handle the flow rate of the pump. Hayward Technical Services One Hayward Industrial Drive

What your describing would draw more air when the filter press is low than when the pressure is high. The union would leak more when the water is moving freely. As the pressure builds, water flow slows down. The draw on the suction line goes down. Therefore would not pull as much air than when system was running at a lower pressure. In other words, you would get the opposite symptom than what you have. Does that make sense? Yes,one valve is definitely leaking right now. If what you're saying is true,then I'm truly baffled.

Any air drawn in by the seal would not be seen in the pot. Seal is also constantly under pressure from a spring, forcing the two halfs of the seal together, whether pump is on or not. If the shaft was lopsided enough to make the seal leak... #1 The pump would tear itself apart. 3450 rpm's you know. #2 You're neighbor would come over wondering why pump pieces were landing in his pool. #3 how does a motor shaft all of a sudden get bent that much? When seals leak, it's usually water. I did once have a seal draw air in, Even though the seal is in the pressure side of the pump. But that air would wind up in the filter. I have found 2 suspicious issues. I have 2 quick disconnect ball valves teed off for each suction port. It appears neither valve face is flush with the union when tightened down. The T appears to be twisted coming out of the ground and I'll have to dig down to see if I can get enough play to get these valves seated flush. Think I could be sucking air through here? I tried the water test but saw nothing.

With the pump off,should water remain in the basket without any fall off? My basket is empty in the morning after 12 hours off.

Two things 1. Could you be putting too much D.E. in? What size is the filter, and how much do you put in? 2. When you shut off the pump, watch the pump cover and see if you get any air bubbles coming up to the top of the lid. I may take a min or two. Trick: If you see bubbles but need a better view, take the pump basket out and re prime the pump, then shut down and observe for air. It will either come from the pump inlet, the pump lid o ring, or from the bottom of the pot. In that case see if you have a threaded plug in the pump down near the bottom of the pot. That plug may have an o ring that has gone bad. This is a common problem with Sta-Rite pumps. I actually put less than the required DE in. I have a 20 year old Hayward Super Pump. I'll do what you suggested. Thanks for reading.

I'm baffled. I've disassembled the DE filter twice and I see no tears or obstructions. It was green with dead algae. After cleaning,the pressure starts at 12 PSI with no air bubbles at all in the basket. When it reaches 20-22 PSI there is a lot of air visible. Last night I shut it off at 20 PSI and this morning it started at 15 PSI with almost no air in the basket and no backwashing or cleaning performed. I can't explain that. After shut down and start up the basket is empty of water and the pump primes itself,I thought the water should remain full in the basket. One of the return ports is coughing a bit but there is no water loss at all.

I think my pump is either now undersized or worn out. Anybody else agree?

Last fall I changed all my plumbing from 1.5" black flex to 2" PVC. There are no leaks and there is no air visible in the pump basket til the filter gets dirty then there's a lot of air. The pump is the original 56gpm 1 HP Superpump. Does this sound like the pump needs to be upgraded now? The old plumbing had one return line that teed off at the first return port and continued to the far return port. I now have it teed right after the pump and 2 separate 2" lines to each return. The suction lines are now also separate 2" lines. Thanks

I've been delayed due to a nagging neck problem but I got the hammer drill and this certainly is way too big for parallel and square rebar holes. My electric drill won't accommodate a half inch bit. Any suggestions? Also,after the rebar is in place do these holes get filled prior to the pour? Thanks.

Thanks, I didn't realize the rebar would be cut so easily by the concrete blade. When I first had a pool service estimate the job they said they pour the concrete so it is separated from the main body. How would they do that,use some removal divider? Cut it before it cures? A concrete saw will cut through re-bar w/ ease - you'll see sparks for a few seconds, then the blade is through. They're almost certainly talking about an expansion joint. The cheapest joint is just a saw-cut; better contractors will hand trowel the joints instead of coming back later w/ a saw. Finally, sometimes it's a control joint - physical divider placed along one finished edge before the next section (in your case, the channels) are poured. This is a thin strip of material, maybe 1/4-1/2" thick, and maybe 4-6" tall; usually made of a bituminous-treated fiber. Lets one section expand under heat without cracking due to resistance from adjacent sections. In your case, it would ease removal, so I'd recommend these strips. You'll have to cut/place the strips along each side of the channel and pin them firmly along the edges of the so they don't move (can remove the pins once the channels are poured/before finishing). Then use a masonry bit to drill holes at, oh, I'd say 18" intervals along the edges of both slabs. Be sure to drill the holes level and through the center of the slabs. You'll have to drill the holes deep enough in one side so that you can slide the re-bar pin into that side of the channel, then slide it back a bit toward the other side so it's placed in the holes on each side. A 16" wide channel MAY not be wide enough to position a drill w/ a masonry bit into the channel - remember, the holes must be level (and square/aligned on each side). Look for a short masonry bit, or you may have to widen the channel w/ a concrete saw. If you do this, you'll easily be able to remove the concrete in these channels should the need ever arise in the future. Thanks,is the divider available at Home Depot etc? Thanks again.

Thanks,I didn't realize the rebar would be cut so easily by the concrete blade. When I first had a pool service estimate the job they said they pour the concrete so it is separated from the main body. How would they do that,use some removal divider? Cut it before it cures?

After replacing all the plumbing I need to fill the 3 channels where I had to cut out the concrete. The channels are approx 16"x10'. Everything I read says I need to dowel in the old concrete with rebar to the new concrete. If I ever had to access again that would be a major problem. Any other solutions or thoughts?

I'm looking for 2" Sch 40 Sweep fittings and can't find any locally. Anyone know of any good online sources? Thanks.

Standard contingency fee contract = if plaintiff wins, lawyer takes 1/3, before expenses, which plaintiff pays out of his 2/3. If plaintiff loses, lawyer eats all expenses. Did you sign a contract? Did said contract contain a provision saying you waive all warranties, both express and implied? (Warranty of merchantability is implied). Contact an atty. If you're looking at $ thousands in repair/replacement costs, what's another $200 for a consultation (note - a good atty will offer a free consultation). Finally - TimeWrap's comments about vinyl-lined pools are crap. It all depends on the quality of the contractor's work. For all of his "experience," there are probably a dozen vinyl contractors in this forum who would dispute his comments. Go to the Fiberglass Pools thread on this site to read about tons of problems w/ fiberglass pools. I agree that I would not listen to one damned word TimeWrap wrote. Find an Attorney to read the contract and proceed via contingency. I'd call the scumbag back and record the conversation. My neighborhood is loaded with vinyl lined pools of 20-30 years old with no problems outside of the normal.

I actually found that dirt had accumulated and compacted inside the temprary ribbed return line from when the suction line initially failed. All is now well with the suction side and I'm tackling the return side next week.