Pathfinder

If you have a tankless water heater like a Rannai, Bosch or an AO Smith Vertex tank heater its perfectly fine to set the temp to somewhere in the 80's and fill your tub without the worry of thermal expansion.

If the flow is good coming out of the returns then i wouldnt worry. For piece of mind you can always install a new pressure gauge. For the panels you need to get a proper air reief valve for the end of you panels.

If its high you will need to drain the 8 inches. If you are able to vac on waste then do that even if your Cya is good. If it is high then vac on waste to bring it down the 8" then refill. The proper way for CYA to be tested IMO is with the turbidity test. Bring samples to all the pool stores in your area & ask to have your water tested by the person most experienced. If done properly you should have basically the same reading +/- 5ppm IMO go with the company that isnt trying to hawk chems & is ok with using liquid chlorine. Stay away from whoever tries to sell you anything extra

If you can find a name brand that either states 40% or 60% you should be fine. 95% of the pools in our area are vinyl so bleach is fine we usually add it to the return stream that way it get circulated into the pool and doesnt stand. To calculate you bleach try using the pool calculator poolcalc. You need to find what your true CYA level is since if it is 270 as what was stated you need to take out at least 8 inches of water. If you are lucky enough to have a waste feature disregard the the rinse method vac on waste with the hose running usually start the hose 20 mins before you vac so the water level doesnt go below the skimmer. Here are pics of the progression you should see day2 day3 day4 day5

Wow thats a lot of chems & interesting readings. Here is the procedure we use; - Get PH & ALK readings as close to acceptable 1st (we only go to acceptable low end since Liquid Chlorine will raise ph some what & its easier to increase than decrease) - Prep filter / properly cleaned - Brush the entire pool walls & bottom first with a pool brush - Use 60% polyquat algaecide to pool circulate 6 hours - After 6 hours proper dosage of 12.5% liquid chlorine is added for shocking wait 8 hrs - Start to vac the pool slowly & rinsing the filter every 5 minutes till entire pool has been vac'd - After vac procedure rinse filter & brush entire pool again -Test water & add proper dosage of Liquid chlorine for shock again Repeat procedure until you get a proper chlorine reading Also take out your ladder/stairs or anything else that can come out.

A couple things to check first: - how much water is in the pump housing (is it full, does it have lots of air bubbles) - Look at the top of your filter & see what the dial is pointing to ie; circulate, filter rinse. Make sure it is on filter.(Im guessing you have a sand filter. If Catridge check to see if the is a filter in the housing) - Look at your return jets to see if there is any nozzles or fittings, if you have nothing there your not creating the proper backpressure for proper circulation. One of these three should help your issue. With regards to the solar panels there is usually air stuck in a solar panels that are installed without the proper relief valve. Since the panels are pressurized you would only have a leak if there was water pouring off your roof. With regards to a leak before the pump a minor leak it would still produce a proper flow but with lots of air. A big break in a suction line you wouldnt be able to achieve prime from your pump to run the system & you might even pull in some dirt.

That should never happen. What r they using to suck the liner in place? If they ordered it with a cove & you have no cove it is not going to fit no matter what way you try to swing it. Adding water is not going to fix anything, I suggest you ask for the measurement sheet for that liner then measure the dimensions again. You are probably goin to find that the measurements are off. They are goin to have to come good with a new liner.

Use the liquid chlorine over the calhypo for bringing back a lost pool, it works more effectively. You also need to be rinsing that filter out twice a day right now & it will need to be cleaned in a solution when it clears up. Im also pretty skeptical of the 900 reading for the TDS. Do you have another pool store in your area for testing?

+1 There's definitely a blockage of some sort

101 is for heaters made after 99 & 100 is for heaters made before 99

Go to your local plumbing store & look for whats called a Rambit made by Pasco. Then cut the pipe right at the fitting then use the Rambit to clear out the old pvc. When your done glue in a new piece with proper glue & primer. That IMO is the only proper way to fix it if you dont want to replace the jet housing. If that happened on 1 its probably gonna happen to the rest down the road.

Polaris Just came out with the 9300 sport Auto cleaner. I would strongly check it out 9300 sport

This topic just came up in the new issue of pool & spa marketing a Canadian Industry mag. Its an interesting read. Here is the online version its on page 32 No main Drain Article

Do a search for whats called a spa cap. Its a tarp material with an elastic bottom that goes over top. They come 7'/8' & either 12" or 38"

They want the water de-chlorinated before discharge. Here's a link for anyone interested Toronto water policy

In the GTA saltwater pool & spas must be drained into sanitary sewers. It no longer can be expelled into the ground or on the street to storm sewers. I can see other cities & provinces adopting this. The reason is there is no way to properly de-salinate the water.

Your best bet is to take out the trees as they will probably end up dying anyway from the excavation. A trees root system is about double the canopy, so more than likely the root system is going to be damaged & the tree will end up dying from shock(no joke). If the trees do survive the excavation they will end up causing damage to your plumbing & pool deck

If they are offering you $1,000 back in cash not product take it. Who knows how long you're going to be without the tub while they try to fix it & it may not come back any better.

Wood is a strong amplifier for vibrations & decks sometimes make it worse. There is one brand of tub i can always hear more than 50ft when on wood decks(not HS). What you will have to do is turn it on and go to the furthestpart of the fence & feel it for vibrations. If you can feel vibes then you may have to do some sound dampening, the motor is usually the culprit worst case you will have to place something under the tub to dampen the vibes. If no vibration s are felt on the fence then your neighbours are .....

Being that you have an SWG where are your sacrificial anodes placedon your pool or plumbing. If dont have any than that plate is going to be only the start of your issues.

Bought one from Canadian Tire, paid $275 3/4 hp w 1.5" top discharge. Drains a tub in about 7mins goin on 2 years steady.

You're going to enjoy that massive corner seat.

Great description

As a curious installer can you explain in detail why it cobalts due to the lack of ester resins &can you use specific independent fact. I only ask of this since i really would like to know if this is truly a fact & im sure the regular folks would like some insight instead of all the pettiness, the fighting &the name calling that is making this section of the forum look horrible. As a lot of these "discussions" definitely arent helping restore faith in the fibreglass industry IMO.

Please turn off your caps button WE GET YOUR TRYING TO MAKE POINTS but its pretty annoying to read