Pathfinder

Find yourself another service company after this. They obviously have techs that dont know what they're doing. The "tech" should have done a couple simple basic tests with a volt meter before the "replace fix" method & your issue would have been found immediately instead of it taking 2hrs.

Ok, so with that figured out the most economical solution would be to switch pumps. The Left pump looks pretty new & im guessing for some strange reason a single speed pump was put instead of a dual. You can tell it was worked on with that primer covered "U"turn on the right side. The wet end outputs should line up. To find out the error codes you need to find out what year & then find an owners manual.

Im gonna guess that pump2 is plugged into plug one and pump 1 is plugged into plug 2. I cant remember if the plug ends are the same on that pack. If they arent then you'll have switch the cords around. Both pumps are 2 speed but pump 1 on the left is your pump for circulating and heating so it is backwards

The Spa monitor from Balboa does exactly what you have done minus the ribbon cable. You should check it out on their site.

Im currently shopping around for a new design program geared more toward Vinyl pool templates. Do any of you builders on here use design software like Pool Studio or Pool design? Any info would be helpful.

Poolspaguy, With that type of pricing Im the lowest 95% of the time. My competitors are usually $800 to $2000 more.

Depends if its dirt or actual filter sand. If its filter sand then you may have a stand pipe or lateral issue. The gasket on the dial head should last at least a min of 5 yrs. when you backwash & rinse water is supposed to come out the waste line. If water is not leaking through when its on filter then there is no problem. I see most gasket issues when customers try to change the dial while the pump is still on.

I give you a quick quote break down for your situation(Pool Pad Bottom) of what should be done, labour breakdown & cost. I ve been doing liner pools going on 13 yrs. Day 1 Drain Pool w Gas pump 3" discharge Remove liner/face plates & gaskets Pressure testing & inspection of all lines(returns & suction) Remove old tape from joints Clean all wall panels/ joints Silicone and tape all joints Fix & treat any rust spots Sweep & Prep pool for next day install Labour 3 guys 4hrs =12 total hours Day 2 Re sweep/Vac pool bottom again(to ensure no debris blew in) Place all new gaskets Liner Install maindrain cut in Filling (by water truck) Faceplate install & cut in Water Balance Labour 3 guys 2.5hrs(liner install) 7.5 total hours 1 guy 4hrs(pool fill duration/cut ins/equipment start-up/Balancing) As you are filling by a truck thats a variable since you have to look at how far you are away from where the truck fills up how big the truck is & how many trips. If its only one truck & it takes 20mins to drive to your location its basically an hour combined for each load. So probable 4 loads of water will take 4 hrs. It could be longer if the drive is longer or it could be less if there is less loads or 2 trucks delivering. Pool Liner - 15x30 30 mil full pattern Kafko liner $2,500 Pool Labour - 23.5hrs ($50 per hr avg) $1,175 Water $800 Total $4,475 My estimate would be more than your first quote but I would suspect the difference would be in either the pressure testing inclusion or the liner price. A quality inground liner sure isnt going to be $1,200. Anything below 27mil wall IMO is aboveground grade. Look for vinyl either supplied from Canadian Tower General or a supplier that gets vinyl that states its made in the USA(there's only a couple) Hope this breakdown helps.

I just shared this with another forum so Id figure id share it here as well. I saw this from a Jacuzzi Dealer in Southern Ontario & for the record I do not sell Jacuzzi

Agreed they should pop out going counter clockwise. If not you may need to have some prying force on the jet for it come out but make sure you have something to protect the tub surface from scratching. If you are going after market jets than contacting a marquis dealer, the closest jet face design is called Emerald cut. That is some pretty good pricing for the 5" jets considering my buying cost is double that from a supplier here in Canada

That jet is made by American Product. Theres a tab inside the jet (bottom of picture below jet nozzle) that you pull out which has the jet locked into place. That is why you couldnt remove it. IMO its a great jet design to prevent jets from popping out or people messing with them.

What you have is called a Garden tub. Its basically a big jetted bathtub. As mentioned b4 the money its going to cost you to make it weather friendly is quite a bit IMO. You would be better off to put that money towards a tub built to be outside.

There's no reason you cant use the the same jet body & add another air line.

Here in Ontario were everything freezes & temps of -40 we drain the pools 6"-8" below the skimmer to offset the water displacement from rain and snow melt on the winter cover. I would never trust a compressor to blow out pool lines. We use a compressor for water feature & slide lines as they are of small diameter. You are dealing with 1 1/2"-2" lines you need volume to remove all of the water & compressed air just doesnt have that volume. We use 5hp shopvac blowers & blow out all components individually(lines/heater/filter pump)all separately. To properly drain your sand filter you need to attach the blower to the line from your pump & have your dial set to rinse. This way the air is forcing the water out of the filter the drain cap will not drain hardly anything. For reference look at the size of a large shop vac hose & then look at your air hose which do you think is better suited for pool piping.

With Cal there are many different levels of insulation packages. In Canada there was a choice of 3 different insulation packages when I sold them. There are also dealers in the US that used to be able to just buy the shells/skirt & plumb them as the saw fit (dont know if that still happens). But to someone who has repaired many brands & models you can spot mods & a tub that has been sititng in the sun for a long time since the majority of that insulation was a rusty orange & not light yellow looking like a sponge like it should. A knife can do wonderous things to pipe when you show obstructed views & claim there's faulty piping. All im saying there are a lot of suspicious things shown & to people who dont have intimate knowledge of the brand this video does what its supposed to do shock & turn people off the brand.

Totally fake. You can tell they have altered the inside themselves especially when they show the coloured screws cracking the wood. Coloured screws come from skirts & are never in the frame. Those blisters are clearly from the sun. Obviously where that was made there was some bitter dealer rivalry goin on. It reminds me of the smoke cannister pictures of an Arctic a few years back circulating amongst dealers in Canada.

Being an installer of both Kafko & Poolwerx Liners, the quality is equal in my opinion. Pleasureway gets their vinyl from the same manufacturer as Poolwerx & Deys fab. It all comes down to personal taste on the liner pattern. I find more have preferred to go with the lighter blue prism floor pattern(Kafko/Triac/ Latham) over the dark blue prism(Deys/Pleasurewway/SCP). Next if its in your budget get new deck coping your pool will look much better. I recommend the 1 peice extruded pvc deck coping over the aluminum with a pvc top cap. Kafko has the better coping IMO. Their corner caps are far superior then everyone elses generics & will outlast. Vastec also makes good deck coping but the corners are generic. When it comes to joint caps do not accept any abs candy cane shaped caps they will break down and crack in 2 years. They were made for Buster Crabbe Pools but now companies are using them for other coping because they are cheap. Check outhttp://www.cgtpoolliners.com/index.htm each pattern will tell you who sells the liners. Post a pic of your current coping & we can comment.

I would check your stand pipe for cracks especially the portion under the lateral area. Its very common for things to crack inside if the filter is not winterized properly in a freezing climate. When you add the sand fill the tank up at least half this will help disperse the sand.

From a service stand point go with the BC

No zeosand is not worth the hassle. I will say out of the 100 or so filters i ve put it in 90 are back to either sand or ponied up for a cartridge. Most time i spent on initial backwash to remove the dust was 15 mins till it got clear. avg was 10min thats a lot of wasted water. Im a big fan a glass or if it sounds too strange order a slime bag the work really well.

The grey one is your heater the gas pipe is right in front of the heater in pic. The Black is either a System 3 Cartridge or D.E. but im inclined to say its a cartridge since there is no backwash line visible in the pic. For manuals go to www.starite.com

Looking at the 1st picture in the post again, shouldn't those seams be straight across? To me it almost looks like that liner needs to be shifted like a foot clockwise or is it an illusion.

I dont care what anyone says on a 45 there is absolutely no excuse for that. That install has gone pretty wrong, whether it wasnt set right or the measuring was off that should never pass. I could see maybe a bulge if it was a 90 degree corner with a 6" radius but its a 45. Jeff, you have to agree on that

A properly measured liner using a liner vac should be "skintight" everywhere, even in cold temps there should never be that much space from the corner or wall. With that much stress something is going to give, either the liner or the coping.