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TomTom

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About TomTom

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    Male
  • Location
    Georgia (USA)
  • Gender
    Male
  1. I had my inground pool re-plastered 3 years ago and it is structuraly sound. I just had my concrete recoated and color sealed and the people have dropped material onto the white plastered bottom. The bottom is in excellent shape other than it looks bad since I can't get the color out. I don't know if I should have them paint the bottom or have it re-plastered. It will cost me 3,000+ to have it redone just to get it white again. If I stain the plaster white what type stain/paint is the best to use that will give me the best job and last longer. I see where Behr (HD) concrete stain whi
  2. My winterize blow out Procedure for in-ground pool, deck jets, cleaner, and heater. All chemicals are installed as required. Please review this and let me know if I am doing it correctly. Any suggestions etc. would be appreciated and gratefully received. 1. Install ultra-gizmo into skimmer (system has only 1 skimmer with 2 return lines and 1 cleaner line.) 2. Drain sand filter - then reinstall both dome lid and drain plug. 3. Plug up return jet outlets and cleaner outlet, leaving the one farthest away open. 4. Keep the 5-way valve set in filter position. 5. Open ball valv
  3. I have just switched from a single speed Hayward 1 HP pump to a new Hayward 2600VS which is a 1 1/2 HP true rated pump. It comes set with a default configuration of 3,000 RPM Prime 3 minutes then 3,000 RPM for 12 hours. It defaults to 1500 RPM after that for 12 hours. My pool is a 18 x 36 in-ground with inverted corners (Grecian style). It is 3 feet deep for approx. 8 feet then slopes downward and the deep end is 9 1/2 feet. I figured that it contains approx. 21,870 gallons of water. I installed a flow meter (Blue & White) and while the pump is running at 3,000 rpm the flow meter rea
  4. I have a Polynesian Fiberglass wall pool with a concrete bottom that is over 35 years old and in perfect condition except: The waterline tiles are made in the fiberglass wall which look exactly like real tiles. The problem is that I bring the water line up 1/2 way up the tiles and this has caused the bottom 1/2 of the tiles to be bleached out and in most places they are almost as white as the walls instead of blue like they should be. Question: Does anyone know if it is possible to have real tile set over these? TomTom
  5. If this is a brand new Hayward SP2600VS pump, I would be calling tech support at 1 908 355-7665 as it is under warranty.
  6. My heater PVC is Schedule 80 where you make the connection. I would suggest that you Schedule 80 which can be connected to Schedule 40 after approx. 3 foot span. Schedule 80 will stand higher heat temperatures and the heat coming right out of the heater is HOT.
  7. It appears to me that they have used a cement based joint caulk. This sets up hard just like the joints between your flooring tiles in your home. In a pool I would not use that as there is too much moisture around it. I would also recommend that you use a plyable type calk. Get one with silicone which will last longer.
  8. The advice about the filter laterals is spot on.
  9. Thanks for your suggestion. I had already replaced this seal and also the seal between the motor and the housing. Neither one helped. I looked further and found that water was coming out from under the pump housing. I pulled pump back off and checked to find out that the impeller seal which has the spring on it was busted. Replaced it (I also replaced the ceramic shaft seal even though it was OK). This solved the problem. I have also replaced the 1 HP super pump with a Hayward SP2600VS (Variable Speed) pump. The rating of this pump is 1 1/2 true HP rating. Does a fantastic job.
  10. For whatever it is worth to you, I would rather have the same type equipment for everything. You would not put a Pontiac motor in a Ford.
  11. I just opened up my pool after winterizing. The Hayward 1 HP Super Pump will not prime. I filled the basket with water and it starts priming but quits drawing water completely. I have only got it to completely prime one time. I shut it down and then it has not primed since. All the plugs in the pump are properly installed. I have checked the impeller by sticking my hand into the basket and there is nothing that seems to be stopping up the impeller. I have checked the gasket around the lid of the basket and cleaned it and relubed it with magic lube. Today I got a rubber seal that goes
  12. Scotts correct. You have to winterize all pool pipes which includes the ones to your slide and any deck jets or anyting else you may have. Blow out the water and cap it up. Tom
  13. You definitely have a very bad leak in your plumbing going from your booster pump to the hook up point for your Polaras. The reason your are loosing so much water is the booster pump causes a lot of pressure for the cleaning and it is litterally squirting your water out. I agree with Scott the line from your booster pump to your pool is either busted or come loose. All you can do it dig it up or have someone do it for you. Hope you don't have much concrete decking over the line. It is most likely close to the pool itself. Tom
  14. If he is that dumb, I would not let him touch anything for me. You can buy digital timers that control 3 different items such as pump, cleaner, lights. They are around 180.00 and easy to install. I know did it myself.
  15. The color splash pure white LED bulb will fit your niche. Most pool supply on line companies have it. It is made by J&Jelectronice.com. I know because I have a SwimQuip niche and it is smaller and it will fit mine. It has the Edison screw in regular size end and will screw into your niche. Hope this helps. Tom
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