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tkalla2000

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  1. In my opinion the intelliflo cannot be beat. I would not replace your current pump with a Superflo unless there is something wrong with it, because the Superflo probably will not be anymore efficient than your current pump. I have installed many Intelliflo pumps and the oldest ones are now 6 years old and still running. They also don't have near as many problems as traditional pump motors. I have never seen the bearings or pump seal go out in an Intelliflo pump. The variable speed is great because you can use them in any application. Don't let the 3HP scare you. I have some of these out there that only draw 80 watts at 500 RPM. I am in Texas and power is about .10p/kwh and I figure these pumps pay for themselves in about 18 months (power savings and less maintenance). The 3HP is also very nice to have when you have problems or for vacuuming the pool. These are extremely quite when they are turned down to 500RPM, most people don't even know they are running. I think they are worth every penny.
  2. Hello, I take care of a few commercial pools that are currently running on Trichlor. I have constant problems with high CYA and low TA and PH. I have read a little about the PULSAR chlorine. I am wondering if anyone knows anything about this stuff. I live in an area that is very hot and the pool get slammed all summer long. I would like to find a different way to chlorinate these pools. I have looked into commercial SWG's and they are way to expensive. If anyone knows of a better way, please let me know. Thanks.
  3. Got the CH down to about 250ppm, TA creeps up to about 120 from 80 every week. The flakes are still forming. I think the water temp is to high. The pools in my area are running about 86F at night and up to 97 during the day. If I drastically lower the TA to around 30 will this be hard on the plaster or equipment? I have tried to keep the TA at 80 but it still rises to 120 after 7 days, and the PH gets to 8.0.
  4. Thank you all so much for the help. Sorry it took me so long for an update. The problem was definitely water turnover rate. The hotel is shutting down the pool for the rest of the summer and having a bigger one built. I advised them to run 2" plumbing to 4 skimmers and two sets of drains, along with a 900lb sand filter and 2hp pump. Thanks again for all the info.
  5. Is the generator properly bonded? I have seen these things do all sorts of crazy things, due to not being bonded.
  6. Thanks so much for the info. I have not yet had a chance to test for metals. However the home owner told me that the company that sanded off a layer of plaster was using metal sanding discs. The pool started showing these dark stains in the first 2 weeks after the sanding. I will be going back to this pool tomorrow, does anyone know of a good product to remove these stains?
  7. Hello, I got a call from a lady yesterday, with a pool that is staining real bad. I went over and checked it out, and this is what I found. The pool pretty much looked like a 20 year old pool, where the plaster gets thin and the concrete starts appearing. I took a knife and made a small scratch in one of the stains and there is bright white new plaster behind the stain. This pool was built in 2008. She said about 9 months after it was built, it started to model. In march of this year a company came out, drained the pool and sanded down a layer of plaster and acid washed the pool. She says within 3 weeks after that the stains started to appear. She said the stains got noticeably worse day by day. I'm not sure how long the chemistry has been out of wack, but when I tested yesterday, it was way out of range. FC = 4.0 PH = 6.8 TA = 30 CYA = 60 CH = I ran out of drops at 450 TEMP = 93F I know the company that does weekly maintenance on the pool was there on Monday, so I'm thinking that the PH was high due to the SWG and maybe they put a little to much acid in to give me that very low reading. My only guess with the calcium being so high is, maybe there was allot of plaster dust still in the pool when they filled it up, and maybe they initially raised the chlorine using cal hypo. I put a bottle of Jacks Magic in the pool yesterday and I will be going back tomorrow to adjust the chemistry. I have never seen a staining problem this bad. She was talking about re-plastering the pool, but I think the stains can be removed with chemicals. If anyone has any idea how this could happen and how it can be fixed, I would greatly appreciate some help.
  8. Thanks for the info. The pump is a cheap pool pump from Lowe's, 1.5HP. The filter is a 350lb sand filter. The flow rate after the filter is about 55 Gal/M. Returns are spread out throughout the pool, but the skimmer, and drain concern me. This pool only has one skimmer, one suction outlet and one drain. The drain and suction must be shut off for now due to upgrading for code. The only suction device is the skimmer. The pump primes good and runs out at 55 Gal/M on this single suction line. The chlorinator is a Rainbow In-line that holds 10 tabs. It seems to function fine. It is using about 12 tablets per week and the chlorine is holding. When I took over the pool the CYA was 300 and the phosphates were about 1000. I started backwashing 3 times per day to lower the CYA to 80. After that I treated with a phosphate eliminator, and brought the phosphat level to 50ppb. Since then I have only added 10% liquid shock, and tablets in the chlorinator. I would use a copper algicide but I hate how they stain a white pool, and I never use them anywhere else and I never have algae problems.
  9. hello, I started taking care of a pool at a hotel a couple of weeks ago. The pool had been green for about 2 weeks before I took over. With some 10% liquid shock, the pool was looking good 4 days later. The pool stayed nice for a couple days and then turned green again. Now I can't seem to keep it from turning green. Chems always show in range. FC = 5.0 PH = 7.4 TA = 120 CH = 250 CYA = 70 Temp = 91F The only thing that caught my attention is the phosphate level was about 300ppb. I have other pools that are higher on phosphates and I have no problems with them. This is a hotel that I service twice a week. The hotel is out of my normal area so I can only get there on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The filter is a little undersized, it is a 350lb sand filter. The pool is about 40,000 gallons, but it gets slammed on the weekends. We are in south Texas and the heat index has been between 100F and 117F for about the last month. People are using massive amounts of sun block and it really is taking a toll on all of my commercial pools. I have been using Pool Perfect 2X Natural Enzyme and it seems to take most of the oil off of the surface. The only thing I can come up with for this green pool is that the maintenance guy at the hotel is supposed to be backwashing the filter 3 times per day. He says he is backwashing 3 times everyday. The only thing that makes any sense to me is that filter is getting clogged up in the afternoon, when everyone is using the pool, and allowing the chlorine to drop to 0. Then when he sees the green starting he dumps a couple gallons of bleach in the pool. When I get the I get a strong 5.0ppm chlorine reading and can't figure out what is letting the water turn green. If anyone can help I would much appreciate it. I take of many pool and have came across many problems and I very rearly get stumped, but this one has got me going. Also if anyone knows a better product the help breakdown the sun block, that would be a great help.
  10. Thank you all for the help. I will try to get the calcium lower and let you know if it worked.
  11. The Cell is before the heater, and the CH = is about 350 at the water fill. Thank you Chem Geek, I will try to lower the TA a little more. I have herd Borates are bad for dogs and this guy has a dog that is around the pool allot. I don't know if the dog drinks from the pool, but I would not want to chance Borates if it could make his dog sick.
  12. I have a SWG pool that gets small white flakes in the bottom of the attached spa. Most of the return water is sent to the spa and I only notice the flakes comming out when the generator is gererating. The SI was out of wack at first but I have got the chemistry correct and still have the white flakes. FC = 5.0 PH = 7.6 CH = 350 TA = 90 CYA = 80 TEMP = 92
  13. Thank you very much. I will give that a try and see if the buildup stops.
  14. Hello, I just took on service on a pool that has been running for about 2 weeks. The tile on the negative edge has allot of what looks like calcium buildup on it. I ran some tests on the water and came up with this. TA - 130 CH - 300 PH - 8.0 TEMP - 92F SALT - 2900 According to my calculations that puts it about 0.85 on the saturation index. I lowered the PH to 7.6 and the TA to 70. I figure that will put the saturation index to 0.2, will this stop this buildup? most of the buildup seems to be around the grout. I this buildup coming from deposits in the water or is it leaching out from the grout? Also is the CH level ok for a new plaster pool?
  15. I have seen this happen twice. Both of the heaters had a rat living inside. One of the heaters started acting up, so I I took it apart and cleaned out the nest. The other heater started on fire and almost burned down the guy's garage. I tried putting metal screen in the vents, but the heater was not getting enough air flow. I have told Starite about this issue. Now I take these heaters apart once a month to inspect for debris.
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