Hillbilly Hot Tub

If it is the gasket, its poor water chemistry, once it starts you would have to replace the gaskets. i would look more towards a soap/lotion issue possibly. Would have to see and feel the "material you are finding

Blue/green is usually caused by copper, which low PH can strip off your heat exchangers if they are copper. You can try a stain/metal remover. . If he is maintaining the spa, why did he not address the PH dropping sooner? i would bring a sample of you water to a different testing place and have it tested also. What type of filtration system does it have?

Hard to drive down the road with it that way though. we have a used spa dolley for sale.

Anyone intersted in a spa dolley and or a boom truck for spa deliveries, please let me know as we need to sell them to relocate (boom truck is awesome by the way!)

5 year old sanitized water is bad enough, but this is just real bad. I think if I knew you and found out you were putting children into this water, i would report you. By the way, not only do people get sick and die from improperly maintained pools and hot tubs, they also do from lakes and ponds. Maybe you need to watch discovery channel once and awhile. I can not understand how in your mind you truely beleive a few hundred gallons of heated water can stay sanitary just for O2 being pumped in, what about quarries?

ok, we will pick on you for turning the pumps on and getting soaked. Those of us in the industry have done it several times, we just dont want to admit it. I think you will find the bromine easy once you get into the swing. Happy tubbing!

Maybe you should read other posts about people who got sick, or better yet follow the ozone manufactures directions. Ozone DOES NOT sanitize water, it helps to oxidize wastes. Just because your water is clear and smells ok, does not mean its safe. How many times have you seen beaches closed because the water has ecoli or other bad stuff, the water is clear and smells greatBUT, it can make you sick or even kill you. Maybe you need to do a little more research on ozone before you let small children into the water Search for children dying, or who get ill from water born illnesses. Call you ozone manufacturer and ask them if they think this is a good idea, they will tell you that you must keep a risdual of sanitizer such as chlorine or bromine in the tub. The CDC and doctors and such have no care if you buy chemicals or not, they are there for your safty and they are telling you just ozone is not safe.

Are you sure the sound you are hearing is the vibration from the pump, or is the pump/bearings itself loud. If it is the actual pump, no amount of rubber will help.

First, Living in New englad, I will say, seeing it myself, a good quality thick covers does not melt the snow as quickly as a cheap or junk cover. The science behind it is not relevant. Snow melting means yur losing heat. As far as leisure bay, we used to be a dealer. Never had much for warranty issues, but they are poorly insulated. Our customers up hear would used the foil backed foam boards as you were talking about, foil on both side, reflects heat back in and cold out. There are some that have higher r values, about an inch thick. They taped they on to the panels really well, butting them up next to each other as close as they could. They also placed pieces on the floor as well as they could. I would not spray foam on the shell, this will not help, you want the heat you are reflecting back into the tub to hit the shell to help keep the water warm. Being you are in a warm state, the cost of doing this may be more than what you save. The jets not working could be a couple of thing, these jets turn to go on and off, unless they are one of the smaller bullet jets. Try turning, if this does not work the juts do come out of the housing, there maybe junk blocking them. be careful taking them out, as they make break, and some of leisure bays jets are next to impossible to get now. You could also try using swirl away plumbing cleaner, which I would do anyway with a used tub. Hope this helps a bit.

I would suggest you take some classes to learn about parts/repairs ect. or you could be in quite a mess, unless you are going to be like these furniture stores that just sell spas, send them out the door and when the customer calss, says they must call the manufacturer. IMO its not a field you should enter with no knowledge of what you are doing. You are talking about water/electricity and humans. You mess up and it may not be good. I would research where classes are available close to you. Several of the manufactures offer classes you can take, even if you are just selling, you should know and understand the parts or you will be no different than a customer going to the internet to seek their own parts, and you wont make any extra scratch trying to compete with the internet unless you have the knowledge to back what you are selling.

try a hairdryer. If the breaker stayed on, then your breaker is fine, its in the control pack somewhere.

Ahhh, I mstill do all the chemicals, then adjust the PH and ALK last, after the tub heats. Just my personal preference i guess.

or you may have had a lot of CC, High chlorine demand does not always mean you need to decontaminate. If you do not use enough chlorine for your personal bather load and chlorine demand, over the week, the CC will build up, this is when the chlorine is working on oxidizing, not sanitizing, giving a low free chlorine reading. What was the CC reading. Shock it again to 10 and see if it comes back to normal, or you can try MPS to shock with.

Calcium chloride has a PH of 8-9, how does it not effect the PH when added to the water???? I have always done CH first when filling tubs, and I dont use cheap chemicals, I use 100% calcium chloride, which has a PH of 8-9, which unless there is a chemical reaction when adding to water, would raise the ph??? What am I missing?

With a CYA reading that high, you will have to keep a higher chlorine level, not the 1-2 you have been because high CYA makes chlorine less effective, the higher the CYA, the less sanitizing the chlorine is and the higher you have to keep your free chlorine. Clear water does not mean it is sanitized.

Hi bromine readings (you just shocked all the sodium bromide into active bromine) can give a false high PH reading. Sodium bromide and renew should not of raised the PH, and since the tub was not running overnight, airation did not raise it. What was your bromine reading at that time.

If you use the spa a lot, we suggest monthly, take yours out clean them and let them dry. You should have spares to put in, then just keep rotating. Clean filters don't mean your filtration system is working well, as said above, it means that you are real clean/careful when you use the spa, or the filtration system is not working. The filters are the filtrations system and what picks up the crap. They will pick up stuff larger than 10 microns for standard filters. The filter company suggests replacing every 6 months because the fibers start to break down, but with rotating i have no issue getting over a year.

Death from legionaires disease No more needs to be said. Dont forget Cryto, which has killed several children and has had huge outbreaks at public swim areas.....I dont think dry acid and calcium hardness increaser will kill it since chlorine has a hard time killing it except in high doses for long periods of time.

High quality spa, plus 20 years ago, metals/plastics etc. were made much different, lasted much better. Luck is the word, PH is very important in keeping the spa "parts" in good shape, plus "bugs and germs" are more resistant to sanitizers now, so that has been becoming increasingly important. I think you are doing the right thing now, don't push your "luck"!

May be cheaper to replace the entire control system and topside than just the board at this point.

BTW- dichlor is chlorine, and you are going to want to learn the different kinds of chlorine because to react differently with your water chemistry, and CH is calcium hardness. you would be advised to learn all the abrviations also, such as TA, PH TC, ot CC, you will see them a lot. Go to the chemical section of this forum and read about the chemicals rather than a lowes handbook, those handbooks are made to sell you spatime chemicals, many of which you may not need, they also do not tell you anout what happens if the CYA is to high, or what adding each to your water does to the balance. You also must find out the gallons, which leisure bay is it? I know it is not 500 gallons, more than likely 300-350. I can help with that if you remind me of the model, but if you adjust the water to the wrong gallons, you will have nothing but issues because of that too. it is very important. if it is only 300 gallons and you are treating as 500 gallons you are almost doubling the chemicals, that would be really bad with PH adjusters. And another thing, you started this topic about scale, did you do as i suggested with swirl away or plumbing cleaner. if you did not, the scale maybe coming off the lines/heater/jets specially if your PH is a bit low, or if spa time shock is calcium hypochlorite, it may be that. What does your water test kit tell you? that would help

Agree, overtime they tend to get weak and fail. Not the techs fault

The common wire should be hooked to the red hot spades on a 220 system with a 220 pump. It will have constant power (125v through the common) going to it. The common wire must be hooked to the common spade on the pump. What brand tub is this?. Some brand tubs use the K-8 topside, which will not communicate properly with the standard S Pack. Also, the dipswitches/jumpers have to be configured properly to what he has for pumps, such as circ/no circ/ 2 speed duel duty. Most packs come configured for a circ pump.

Hey, not all pool and spa stores are horrible with horrible equipment