Dan.The.Spa.Man

Other than incorrect wiring or jumper misplacement, the only other problem I have seen with installation of the new board is a few customers who did not push the white connection in the upper right corner far enough onto those pins that it sits on. Double check to make sure you pushed it onto the pins instead of just up against them. That initial delay when you turn the power on is normal on the new board.

So the water temperature gets too hot over time.....like to 110 degrees? If so then it's most likely the control thermistor, which is one of the sensors that screws into the heater. If the water is getting too hot in a short time and boiling in the heater then it would be a flow or airlock problem.

If it's a 220 only Bengal then there shouldn't be any jumpers on the new relay board. Something doesn't sound right, maybe either the wiring, jumpers, or the jet pump may need to be converted if its not the correct voltage. Some jet pumps are 110 only, some are 220 only, and some are 110/220 convertible. You would need to confirm that everything is configured correctly before diagnosing anything else that could be wrong.

Is it a 110 convertible to 220 model or a 220 only model? If it's a convertible model then the jet pump needs to be set for 110 volts instead of 220 volts. The only thing running on 220 volts on the convertible models is the heater, the jet pump still runs on 110 volts. You can confirm this by putting a meter on the black and white terminals on the board where the jet pump wires connect and see what the voltage is. If the voltage is 110 and you have the pump set for 220 volts then that is the problem.

As long as you have flow from the circ pump, my guess would be that one of the thermistors is bad. Uncommon for one to go at the same time as the heater board. You can test them for resistance with a meter and they should read the same.

Are you losing any water? Could be coming off the cover, condensation, etc. we have tubs sitting outside that don't have any water in them and there is commonly water or dampness around them at different times of the day/morning/evening.

It is plumbed into the circulation system. It has nothing to do with the operation of the Moto massage. You probably just need a new Moto massage jet. Did you fix the leaking line? You can either plug it off or repair it with a small nipple that gets PVC glued into the shell. ......oooops...didn't see that Hot Springs Ace already replied

A lot of times these tubs can be wired wrong even by licensed electricians. I would double check that first since it's a common problem and the tub was working properly before moving it. Was the tub converted from 110v or was it 220v to start with? Can you take and post pics of the wiring at the tub and the breakers?

Is it wired 110v with a plug or 220v with breakers? There may be a reset button on the heater depending on which one is installed. The heater relay board could be bad as well, just bad luck with the timing if it's cooked. Look for black flash marks on the relays above where the main wires attach to the board.

You may have a bad heater board. You also may have a heater that has a reset button on it. Make sure that you are getting flow from the small circulation pump that runs water through the heater. What year is the tub and which heater is installed in it? Is the heater black? Is it stainless and shaped like a trombone? Or does it have two parallel stainless tubes?

The lights are correct but with a 220 v converted jetsetter there should only be a jumper between 5+ 6. Do you have the proper 30 amp and 20 amp breakers? ...or maybe you are talking about the small black jumpers...yes, those would be on 1,2, and 3. You should get about 4 to 8 degrees an hour or so.

Yes, you can probably scrape one up at a local dealer, or you can just use a piece of wire. If you use a wire jumper I would crimp on a nice flat terminal connector to make sure things are neat and tight. For a 110v jetsetter, unless they fell off, there should have been several jumpers used. Normally you would use 1 and get rid of the extra ones when converting to 220v. Also, make sure you change the small black jumpers on the other side of the board per the instructions on the back of the control box cover.

That is also an air intake line for the jets, except someone put an ozone check-valve in it instead of the proper one. I would get at least 2 new check valves for the ones that are broken and inspect the others as well. part # is 70289.

The gfci on the plug is all that is needed as long as it works properly. The 2nd button runs the same jet pump that the 1st button does, it just operates the pump for 10 minutes and acts as a timer.

Never seen a new heater board not work if it was the only problem. Are you sure it is wired right and the heater breaker is on and not tripped?

It is an air intake line for one of the jets. If you look up towards the top of the motor equipment area you will see other similar lines attached to some check valves. The one in the picture is a line that broke off from a check valve and fell down from the clip that it was attached to.

That heater has a reset button. On your picture it is located in that small circle just under that small rectangular silver sticker on the base of the heater. It may be orientated in the other direction in your tub and tough to get at. It is sometimes hard to reset with a fingertip, so you may want to try using a small screwdriver or something. You need to push through the rubber circle hard a bunch of times as the actual button is behind the rubber that you are pushing on.

Looks like that ozonator can be set for 110v or 220 v. Do you have it set up/ wired for the proper voltage in the tub? In the Grandee, some components are 110v and some are 220v.

Yeah, the heater for a Vista should be a 4000 watt due to the breaker configuration as you stated.

What was the original problem with the pump? If they sit for a while, sometimes the impeller/motor shaft just needs to be spun a few times with a wrench or pair of vise grips to free it up. Many times they start up and work fine after doing this. I would plug it in and see if it runs at this point.

Make sure you can get the old one apart first, most of the time the impeller or long thru-bolts break or the shaft is too far corroded.

Black to ground and white to ground means nothing. You need the proper voltage between the black and white. Either 120 or 240 depending on the voltage of your tub.

If the "heater on" light is on but there is no voltage to the relay where the black and white wires connect then the relay board is bad. Does your heater connect to the board with push on " flag" terminals or do they push up into slots exactly like the incoming power wires attach? The new style board requires the old flag terminals on your heater to be cut off and stripped back, then they slide into openings just like the main power wires do.

Yeah, as Apollo said it's a 3hp pump. Some spa companies order pumps and ask the manufacturer to leave the HP blank so they can put. 4.5 or 5 HP stickers on it to impress (lie to) people.

You most likely just need new Moto jet itself. You would need to pry out the 3 screw covers, they have a small slot under them to put the flat blade screwdriver under. Take out the 3 phillips screws. Then pull off the smaller diameter air hose. Then unscrew the whole Moto jet from the tub. Replace with new one in reverse order.