Dan.The.Spa.Man

They have sold over a million tubs and the one in question is 13 years old. I think you will be ok. A new Grandee is a great tub. Anyone have a 13 year old car that has ever needed a repair? Tires, brakes, a/c recharge, nothing? No maintenance? Sign me up....I'll buy it.

Oh....I read the last post too quickly and thought it said "the tub is currently leaking" instead of "running". It probably was the ozone check valve or something like that.

It's probably a small bleed line on he bottom of one of the Moto-massage compartments. They either need to take it back for repair or tip it up and do the repair there if they can figure out which one.

Sounds like the heater is bad. Check between the black lead and the green lead on the heater...it should read open or zero. Any numeric reading and the heater is grounded.

Your first post says 3 degrees within an hour and a half.....2 high hp pumps can definitely do that in an hour and a half....check the voltage too....if its low the pumps will get even hotter. We hook pool pumps up to a 50 gallon vessel to test them and the water can go from 70 degrees to 110 degrees in a few hours just from the pump running with no heater involved.

You would need to check the temperature thermistors or possibly the control head is bad. Should be under warranty, have the dealer come and check it out.

How did you verify that the heater was running when it was set for 101 and the summer timer was on?

If whatever spa cover company you are buying the spa cover from doesn't have the specs on a 2005 Caldera Geneva I would stay far away from them. A legit company will know exactly what you need from the year and model.

When the jets are off you should get flow from that bottom drain/return. If you look at the surface there should be a slight ripple of water directly above that drain. You can also put your hand on that pump to see if it is vibrating. If its not vibrating and just gets hot then it is bad.

It's most likely the small circulation pump. If it is not running the heater gets hot and causes the hi limit sensor to kill power to the heater, then the power light flashes. If you disconnect the heater, it doesn't get hot, so the hi limit/power light will not flash.

What year is the tub? Sounds like a bad relay.

Most likely a problem with the auxiliary control pad. Kill power to the tub, open up the main control box, and unplug the phone connector style plug in the upper right hand corner of the box. Turn power back on and see if the problem goes away. If the tub is set for 104 and the jets are coming on periodically with the cover down, then yes, the heat added from the pumps can increase the water temp quite a bit.

If its not the light lens, its probably that bank of 10 precision jets just to the right of the motor compartment. Turn the jets on and move the diverter lever so those jets have water coming through them and see if the water starts coming out of that vent hole area faster. Those jets are susceptible to freeze cracks if the tub is not winterized properly.

Use the panel that comes with the tub. Is the person hooking it up a licensed electrician? Did they look at the wiring diagrams? Just a straight 60 amp breaker will not work.

Once you get the board it will be pretty self explanatory. Easier than someone trying to explain it. Should take about 5 minutes to install. Did they charge you a service call and then quote $530 on top of that? Yikes.

When you manually turn the pump on does it go to low speed 1st and then high speed when you hit the button again...or does it go to high speed 1st and then low speed when you hit the button? If it goes to high speed first the high and low speed wires are probably reversed.

I know the light lens is pretty low in those older bengals....is it below that? If not, take the stainless light shield out from the motor compartment and look at the light lens to see if it is leaking. Even though it is accessible through the motor compartment, it has a small gap where the water will leak down into the foam and not into the motor compartment.

APSP not getting the word out...what does that tell you right there?

Yeah, it would be very uncommon for the new one to be bad. I have replaced about 1800 or more without an issue, but anything is possible.

Never had a new one be bad, I would check the wiring. Also, make sure that you pushed the board all the way onto those pins on the upper right corner. I had a few people who just rested the white connector against the pins and it wasn't making a connection.

What are you trying to do with a code? All the soft codes do is turn on or off certain components that may or may not be in a certain tub. Like if a tub has 1,2, or 3 pumps, an air blower, 1 or 2 speed pumps, etc. If you have those components the jumper is set on, if you don't have the component it is turned off. Turning a jumper on if the component isn't installed isn't going to do anything. The Cantabria pretty much has everything installed.

What model is it? I'm not aware of any of the utopia models being convertible unless you are talking about the Cantabria from 50 to 70 amp. Soft codes for what?

Your last sentence says it all....it's just a big giant money grab. We just spent about 10 grand between books, course fees, hotels, travel etc for 2 guys to go through the process in CT. These are guys who have been in the business for 25 years or more. Any time we call with questions about the process nobody has answers....." We'll have to check and get back to you"...which they never do. The only thing they have been able to answer is how much the fees are, who to make the check out to, and where to send it. Other than that, the whole sorted process has been a colossal waste of time and money.

What do you mean by "got it going and it overheated"? Did any of the pumps run or did you just get the control pad to come on briefly before it overheated? The sn1 code is most likely caused by the circulation pump not running, so there is no way to "clear it" unless you get the pump to circulate. It comes on to protect the heater from dry firing due to no water flowing through it.

If the heater on light is lit in red then the pressure switch and sensors are satisfied and there should be power coming through the new relay board. You would need to see if there is 220 volts at the terminals where the heater terminals are now connected. If you can take and post a few pictures of the wiring at the tub and the wiring at the breakers it may help if there is something obvious that I could see.