Dan.The.Spa.Man
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Posts posted by Dan.The.Spa.Man
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As long as both breakers are double pole 220v then it doesn't matter.
I never look at the sub panel part numbers so I don't know off the top of my head, but some are for 110 to 220 convertible tubs and 1 of the breakers is single pole.
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Sounds like the voltage to the pumps could be wrong. Need to check jumpers and instructions and see if the new Pack has different setups for 110v or 220v. Sometimes you need to move wires within the pack. Usually that situation means that the pumps are 220v and only getting 110v, but check first to see what voltage the pumps are supposed to be and double check the instructions.
*****I just looked at Balboa 501z wiring diagram and it looks like only the heater or blower can be 220v....so if you have 220v pumps I don't think you can use that Pack unless the pumps are convertible back to 110v.
Read the instructions and check voltages to confirm....
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Yeah it looks like the white heater wire may have been loose or not fully inserted into H2 terminal.
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Yeah it could be chemical related or just bad luck.
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Yes. In the back of the circ pump there is a cap with a small screw in the center. You need a small screw driver to remove it. If water pours out or if it's wet then it's done.
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Has the circ pump been replaced with the newer E5 pump at some point? If so I would check the circ pump to see if water has gotten into the back motor part of it. Unscrew the small screw in the back cap and see if it's wet in there. If so that's the problem.
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You need to check the heater to ground. One probe in white or black and the other in the ground wire. Should read open. Any resistance and it's bad.
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actually I just realized you said it was an Aspire. Unplug everything associated with the music system first. Then see what happens.
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No, the hi limit is the one that is under the grey foam insulation located up against the heater....you can follow the wire from where it plugs into the control box. I doubt it's that though. They are incredibly reliable. More likely the control board.
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The one with the black cord is the new style and performs better.
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Either one. The top one is the older style and the bottom one is the newest version.
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You need a double pole 30 and double pole 20.
On the 30 amp gfci breaker there will be a seperate terminal for the neutral wire in addition to the two hot wires.
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I like beer. lol. That should do it then if the old one was chewed. You should be good for a while then with all of the new parts.
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Inspect the ribbon cable going from the control head to the board. Sometimes mice can chew threw one of the several wires in the cable and cause this.
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It unscrews. Sometimes there is sand or grit in it and it's a little tough.
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Loose wire most likely. Probably wasn't far enough into the terminal.
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You need to check one of the heater leads to ground and see if you get a reading. If so the heater is bad. If it reads open its good.
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I can't remember the year but they stopped doing the ut1, 2 3,and 4 around that time.
If it doesn't go any higher than 104 when you hit the + button then yours can't do it. First thing to do is check the water temp with a medical thermometer to see if it really is 100 or is it close to 104. If the temp really is 100 and the thermistors are good then the only other thing to do would be plugging in a new control head to see if it helps.
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If you definitely have flow from the circ pump then it's probably the pressure switch which is internal to the heater. You can check to see if the switch is opening and closing with a meter or you can put a jumper on the board where the pressure switch plugs in and see if the problem is corrected.
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A sovereign I converted to 220v has 4 wires going to the terminal board and the jet pump runs on 110v. The Sovereign II has 5 wires and the jet pump runs on 220v. So it's not just a matter of moving jumpers, they are wired differently.
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...also, if the 9000 was overheating but the 6000 works fine and it is indeed a 220v only Sovereign model II then it's possible that it's wired wrong and the pump is only getting 110v.
Check to see if it says Sovereign I or Sovereign II on the model number inside the compartment then compare to the same wiring diagram on the box cover.
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It is most likely the heater relay board which is on the left where all of the wires come into the control box. If the heater light is on but there is no voltage there then the board is bad.
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Take a look at the HotSpring Gleam. ....same tub as the Cantabria but its a HotSpring version.
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The two most likely scenarios are either that the thermistors have failed again or the circ pump is not pushing enough water. If the flow looks good from the circ pump then its probably the thermistors again.
dead 2010 hotsprings vanguard
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
So you have the older style control pad with a phone type connection? I may have one, I could check tomorrow.
Check to make sure there is nothing stuck in the ozone venturi valve that is in the 3/4" line after the heater. I've had that cause the protection mode before.