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sybilla

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About sybilla

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  1. I've owned (and successfully managed water in) a hot tub for a decade and am on tub #2 and have never encountered this before. When my total chlorine is running high but my free chlorine is low, I shock my tub with MPS (LeisureTime Renew as recommended by dealer for a Sundance Edison... want my Hartford back!!!) After 20 minutes of circulating the chlorine readings jump - total chlorine is off the charts and free chlorine jumps into the "high" range. What??? I used to use MPS to LOWER chlorine levels if needed, and thought that it was just as (or more) effective in burning off the byproducts as the free chlorine. I'm completely puzzled by this and wondered if anyone has an explanation? Some details: water is old due to water restrictions in our area, but everything except the chlorine is in balance and easy to keep there. However stabilizer is on the low end considering I've been using dichlor ever since it dropped, somewhat inexplicably, a few months ago. This tub has an ozonator and a "clear-ray" bulb (?) both gadgets I didn't have in my last much-easier-to-maintain tub. Clear-ray bulb is old enough it should probably be replaced. I don't know of any maintenance requirements for ozonator. This tub also has 1 filter rather than 2 (I actually miss the good old days of cleaning 2 filters but having sparkling water to show for it!) Any thoughts or advice welcome!
  2. I wish I had advice for you, but I am dealing with an extremely similar challenge with my new Sundance, only I haven't gone down the decon route yet. My brand new Sundance Edison behaved almost identically to your Optima - foul water within days of a new fill and then a nightmare cycle over the last few months. I haven't taken the decon/ahhhsome route yet, but am thinking it might be the only recourse. One reason I've persevered is that this is a replacement tub, and I had no trouble keeping my Sundance Hartford balanced and clean (this was supposed to be a close replacement, but it's been nothing like my other tub.) We use our tub very little, so it's not bather load that is the challenge. The trouble seems to have started at the initial fill, so like you, I think I'm going to have to start from scratch - although your experience makes me question whether even this will be effective! We even had our dealer come out for 4 weeks of maintenance, and while they managed to get/keep the tub relatively clear, with so little use this still didn't seem normal. I'm sorry I don't have any help to offer, but I certainly can commiserate - and wonder if there wasn't some warehouse somewhere with a few "dirty" tubs...
  3. I'm hoping some veteran here can provide some insight because after 12 years of spa ownership and maintenance (mostly by following the advice here) I am at my wits end. Maybe my best option is to drain and refill, but our initial fill of this tub was only 3 weeks ago (9/26) so I have no confidence that my new water will be any different than the original. I've never posted before because I never had to! Spa water maintenance is not that hard if you know what you are doing and make the effort to do it right - so I thought because my 2007 Sundance Hartford (two filters, chlorine, no ozonator) obeyed my every command. But all good things give out eventually, and they no longer make the Hartford, so we bought an Edison. One filter, filter basket, ozonator standard and something called "Clear Ray". Not one for bells and whistles but it seems reasonable that they would have come up with some improvements in 12 years so why not. Well, something is just not right. Initial fill LOOKED good, until we had an F1 condition and supplier suggested draining (and then refilling) about 6 inches of water. For some reason, the next water (top-off) came in brown. We've had discolored water come in from the hose before, and the filter just took care of it (filter turned brownish) so we weren't too worried, but that didn't take care of the F1, so the tech came the next day. He "fixed" the F1 by finding a crossed wire (?) and remedying that, and then he put in 3 bottles of metal gone for the brown water which completely cleared it up. Next day I went to work to balance everything, and no sooner had I gotten all the levels where they needed to be, but the water turned a tea color. So... maybe there was iron left in the water even after 3 bottles of metal gone? Hmmm... So I consulted a local dealer (Sundance purchase was from much further away) and he suggested a filter booster. Sounded very similar to "Bright and Clear" recommended by my dealer so I used that. Cleared up the tea - briefly - until next chlorine balance, when we got a light green color. So now we have copper? Kept cleaning filter (which never seemed dirty) and used it some b/c sanitize/chemicals were fine, and then it got very cloudy. All this time we're getting debris collecting at the bottom of the tub and something I've never, ever encountered before - matted hair near where the water intake is (underneath it, actually). But no hair in the filter... maybe cleaning the filter TOO often? Am not enjoying having to use my net to scoop lightweight materials (it's windy here) out of my tub. I never had to do that before, just suction up sand or grit, things that were too heavy to reach the filter. Based on my experience with my other hot tub, this would seem to be a filtration issue, in other words the filter system just isn't working as well as it needs to. Yesterday we used Bright and Clear and boy was it bright and clear AFTER my husband spent a couple of hours skimming "gunky foam" and eventually scum from the water. Until this morning! Nothing changed - no bathers, no change in chemicals - just a change from clear to cloudy. So I tried Bright and Clear again today and didn't get nearly as much gunk or scum at the waterline but got a lot more than I would expect. Just what is that coming out? Do metals actually do that? Is it possible that this could all be from an outrageously high metal content in my water (we did have serious filtration issues in our town this summer), followed by the "swing cycle" that can get set up after lots of chemical intervention? Besides Bright and Clear and the filter enhancer (basically cellulose) I also used a "scale and stain" product to sequester any remaining metal. Obviously I'm involving my dealer in this issue because it is just not ok to have a brand new hot tub that has yet to have clear, stable water since installation (3 weeks now). If I were a brand new owner I would probably have had serious buyer's remorse by now. As it is, I'm thinking I got a lemon (back to original issue when delivered), because I know hot tubs can work, apparently, just not this one... Any thoughts, hunches or hypotheses are welcome! Thanks. P.S. We've already sanitized with dichlor enough to switch to bleach, and the total alkalinity, ph and hardness are spot on (well, hardness might be a bit low as I ran out raising it), as are the free chlorine and total chlorine. This is the easy part (and the given) so didn't think to mention until now
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