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  1. I see this all the time. Missing Suction/pump return covers. If you have one that is broken or missing it is important to fix/replace ASAP. These covers provide a critically important safety feature. If you ever put your hand over a missing cover with the pump running in high speed it will suck your hand in and hurt. They were mandated years ago after a young girl got her hair sucked in and kept her under water with sad result. The pic below is from a job I just worked on where the customer was just topping up his spa with a bit of water. Dropped his expandable garden hose in and turned the tap on. Within a split second it was sucked into the missing suction opening and made it's way from one side of the tub through the plumbing past a couple of 90 degrees elbows and a Tee fitting into the face of the pump. The impeller twisted it up 1,000 times. It actually sucked it in not from the fill end with the brass fitting but in the middle part of the hose. The brass fitting part stayed in the foot well. I can't hardly believe how many times I had to untwist the hose at the pump wet end, end before I could try and pull it back through and it was still twisted up inside the plumbing. Had to get at it by removing a second suction cover see on the right and pull it through that one first then cut it and pull it through where it got sucked in. It was a $250 mistake for the garden hose but the customer had young children using the spa and it could easily have cost a life over a $20 part and 2 minute fix. FYI...those expandable hoses can stretch out for a mile.. or 2... lol
    6 points
  2. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends a maximum hot tub temperature of 104 degrees for private hot tubs. These strict guidelines are for your safety. Temperatures of 106 degrees or higher can lead to heat stroke. We absolutely do not support overriding spa temperatures to achieve higher temperatures. EDIT: For more information, please read our blog post on the topic.
    4 points
  3. Best Thing I could have done to this spa! The controls are SO much better with the new topside panel. I'm sure this will be safer, more efficient, more reliable alternative; and perfect solution for the problematic old equipment I used to have. So far the new Balboa kit is working great. Tricky to configure at first. After a Youtube video of someone installing and configuring one it was a poc. It did take me all day though, had to replace a blown breaker to top it off. I'm a low voltage technician... I probably shouldn't screw with some things but I do... But what can I say. Just glad I didn't screw up the equipment! Thanks for all the help and input from everyone here.
    4 points
  4. What @ratchettsaid! Hudson Bay is the low end line of Leisure Products Inc. Their current offerings are Hudson Bay, Dr. Wellness and Catalina. When I was researching, I initially thought that a Dr. Wellness was one of my top choices due to size, features and price. I quickly found out that they were a LPI product, which I had owned one about 25 years ago and had bad experiences with. I also found out that the dealer in my area wouldn't allow my to look at the equipment area which was a red flag, Why wouldn't the dealer let me look? Because I would have found a poorly insulated tub with sub standard plumbing, proprietary parts, thin shell and Proprietary parts. This dealer didn't service their tubs either, they contracted out to any Spa tech that would take the job. They are cheap for a reason. If you are on a budget and are willing to spend $3000-$5000 on a five year starter tub, then they are OK. You are much better off though, buying a top quality tub that will last 10-15 years or more, that are well insulated to mitigate heat loss, that are energy efficient with good warranty's from a reputable dealer as the dealer IS your lifeline. Good used tubs are out there, you just have to be diligent and quick to move on one. Remember. always see a used tub full and running.
    4 points
  5. TL/DR - No. HudsonBay spas is an LPI brand of spas. They are a terrible company who builds budget-grade spas using the cheapest components possible - since they are a mail-order product they are also constructed with essentially zero insulation to reduce manufacturing and shipping costs. When bought new (from sites like HomeDepot) they are extremely overpriced for what you're getting. LPI is a terrible company, they sell the same products under multiple brand names to obfuscate the customer making it harder for you to read all the negative reviews on the company. If you visit Hudsonbay's website, you'll notice they never once mention "LPI Inc" on their site. That's intentional. Head over to LPI's website and you'll see a list of their brands, and I'll be honest - they're all terrible low-grade products - https://lpiinc.com/shops/ (Note for anyone curious - Catalina spas WAS A good brand name in the 90's until LPI acquired the brand in 2016) That's because everything you're seeing has already been picked over by the pros and other desperate people shopping for a hottub. Keep in mind professionals are also buying used tubs off the classifieds to flip/resell if there's a good enough profit in the deal for them. If you want to find the best deals on used hottubs, you need to watch the listings daily and sort only by recently-added. The BEST used spa deals sell in literally less than 24-48 hours, so you'll never see those listings (sellers take down the listing because they TOO many hits). The trick is to watch for newly listed spas which you can see filled with water and working. Then look up the brand and product line to figure out what tier/class it's in (most big name brands build multiple product tiers to fit every budget - sometimes these are bells/whistle changes, other times they are improvements under the hood to increase product lifespan - when buying used I'd personally be looking mostly at the flagship top-tiers from any brand to ensure you get the longest lifespan). Also note - warranties do not transfer on used spas so don't pay 85%+ of retail pricing for a 10 month old spa! All that said - hottubs require routine maintenance for proper operation. Many people can't even maintain the filters in their vacuum cleaners, let alone water chemistry in a hottub. For some, a hottub is an impulse purchase without realizing everything involved, soon enough they get bored and sell the spa to try and recoup some of their money back. I see amazing deals pop up all the time in the classifieds (at least a few times a month, and I'm in a warm subtropical climate where there aren't too many spa owners!). I have no doubt if you keep watching the market you'll find a nice spa from a name brand in your budget ($1k to $3k will definitely find you quality working hottub). Just be ready to buy when you find what you're looking for because like I said - you're competing with professionals who do this for a living.
    4 points
  6. That would be Virginia Graeme Baker, namesake of the VGB act, later renamed the pool and spa safety act, which regulates protections from entrapment and evisceration (yes, that means sucking out your intestines when you sit on a suction at the bottom of the pool) on public pools and spas, as well as new private pool and spa construction in the US. Old private pools and spas are unregulated, and usually unsafe. https://www.emsworld.com/news/10409001/minnesota-girl-6-disemboweled-kiddie-pool-drain Thank you @CanadianSpaTech for bringing up this important topic. ⭐ Gold star for YOU my friend. Maybe some our other knowledgeable industry contributors, like @waterbear, @jimmythegreek, @Pool Clown, would like to add to this thread with their knowledge and experiences. This thread, or one like it, should be a sticky in every forum.
    4 points
  7. It's more useful to start a new thread than revive one that is 12 years old. That being said...... It sounds like you don't have a great dealer. If they do not properly understand how the salt system works, or water chemistry in general, I would seek out someone else. Do you have a local Hot Spring dealer? Same salt system so maybe they can be of more assistance. What do you mean when saying the salt system didn't work? Was it not producing chlorine? Was the cartridge failing prematurely? As for the stereo. I'm not personally a fan of music on hot tubs due to longevity issues with the speakers, but of the Hot Spring and Caldera models I have sold with music I have had zero issues with bluetooth connectivity and only a handful of bad speakers. Have you gone through the pairing process? Foam is not the hot tubs fault. Foam is a result of something being introduced to the hot tub and in many scenarios it is laundry soap residue on swim suits. Otherwise it is usually personal hygiene products coming off the body of bathers. Watkins (Caldera) customer service is really good. If you are not getting the help you need from your dealer reach out to them and let them know your issues. At the very least they can get involved and work with your dealer to resolve the situation.
    4 points
  8. As a dealer all I can say is best of luck. I’ve sold hot tubs almost 20 years now. You’re not saving $2,000 buying online. I also think your making a huge mistake thinking you need a pump that is 4HP. HP rating is in my opinion for worst way shop. My hot tub has a 1.5HP pump and it has in my opinion good power. The type I can sit in front of for as long as a I want without hurting. I’ve also sat in a Coast Spa with a legit 7HP pump and a Dynasty with a legit 5HP pump. Both were fine but it doesn’t feel good when you’re getting abused by the jets. YMMV. Of the brands you listed, Catalina is the only one I would even consider. Dr Wellness is about as low as it gets in terms of quality.
    4 points
  9. Hardware In the above setup, for each COM port, the Pi can wait for a packet (see below) and then forward that packet on to the other device’s RX. This results in a man in the middle sort of setup. Example parts Description Mfg Part number Plugs into IQ2020 Control Head Port (8 Pin) TE 3-644540-8 Receives from Touch Panel (8 Pin) TE 3-647000-8 USB to RS422 adapter DTECH 12 to 5V supply for Raspberry Pi Weewooday Pinout Pin Color Touch Panel IQ2020 1 Blue Rx - Tx- 2 Green 12V In 12V Out 3 Yellow Tx + Rx+ 4 Red Ground Ground 5 Brown Tx - Rx- 6 White Rx + Rx+ 7 NC 8 NC Packet Everything is Big Endian (Network order) Message Bytes Notes Start 3 Can be XMS (from touch panel) or XSM (from IQ2020) Message Length 2 Doesn’t include start, length, or checksum bytes Message N Checksum 2 Simple sum of all prior bytes. Example full message (Main Screen Acknowledged): 58534D 0002 0800 0102 Important Messages From touch panel States The touch panel sends these commands many times per second Touch Panel Mode Hex Screen Off 6B 0000 0000 0100 0000 0000 Main Screen 6B 0000 0000 0100 0100 0000 Temperature Adjust Screen 6B 0300 0000 0100 0103 0000 Temp. Down Button Pressed 6B 0300 0008 0100 0103 0000 Temp. Up Button Pressed 6B 0300 0004 0100 0103 0000 Commands Command Msg Hex Description More 4B When you enter a new mode, the IQ2020 will give the touch panel info that it needs to show its next screen. The IQ2020 spreads this info over a few packets. The touch panel asks for “more” until the IQ2020 sends a “I don’t have more info” packet” and then should resume sending one of the state packets above From IQ2020 The green hex below is the temperature setpoint. The temperature is encoded as ASCII (eg 0x3831 => 81 F) Message Message Hex Main Screen Acknowledged 08 00 Temperature Screen Acknowledged 08 03 Setpoint (going into temp) 00 0000 0A00 4005 040A 1502 0003 3831 3A00 Setpoint (after setpoint adjust) 01 0005 1503 3832 3A00 Communication Capture The doc below is a capture of the communication during normal operation through the touch screen. In this capture, the touch screen starts off, then we go into the main screen, then we go to the temperature adjust screen, then we lower the temperature one degree, then we exit the temperature screen. I stop recording for a few minutes so the logs won’t be too long. The touch screen then goes back off. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FPIu6mpBpGdMX-Mh76JIv4aA3WfhkPuU5-MZ9X7wuec/edit?usp=sharing Full sequence to adjust temperature setpoint Verify we are in “Screen Off” mode Replace all “Screen Off” commands from touch screen with “Main Screen” commands Wait until IQ2020 acknowledges that we’ve entered “Main Screen” Replace all “Screen Off” commands with “Temperature Screen” commands Grab setpoint from IQ2020 Wait for IQ2020 to acknowledge that we’re in “Temperature Screen” mode Replace all “Screen Off” commands with “Temp. Up/Down” commands Wait for setpoint to reach your new target setpoint Go to main screen Go to “screen off” (stop replacing “screen off” commands) iPhone interface Option 1: https://www.npmjs.com/package/homebridge-web-thermostat Option 2: https://www.npmjs.com/package/homebridge-thermostat Temperature Measurement Watkins uses a 10kOhm thermistor to bring in the temperature. I connected to that thermistor (top right port) with a MAX31865. I used the calibration curves posted on the web (example) to convert from resistance to temperature
    3 points
  10. Don't fill until they are there. They might need to move the spa depending on space or where the wire is entering the spa. A new spa will be fine sitting empty. Once they start the electrical install and the spa is in final position you can start filling and it will be full by the time they have completed their work. Be sure to fill through the filter hole so you don't get an air lock in the pump wet end. Enjoy
    3 points
  11. It's an aftermarket gizmo that is "supposed to make your motors run more efficiently on less power". It's a snake oil device. Get it out of the system, it's not helping anything and in reality, hurting the efficiency of the pump motors.
    3 points
  12. Have used an oil filter wrench forever. You won't over squeeze the fitting and you can "feel" tightness a little better.
    3 points
  13. Dude, you are a star (I hope), So first thing we did was check the pressure switch and it was working fine, followed the wires back and they were fine. Jumped them together like you suggested and nothing. Tested the live wires on the heater and no voltage so we traced everything back and there was a loose connection. Now the heater light has come on the top controls and the heater element is at 230V ! Hurrahhhh. Its pulling just over 12amps now rather than 4 before so thats a good sign. Hopefully in a few hours it will have gone up in temp. Thanks again for you assistance on this, You have been a huge help
    3 points
  14. As a dealer, I require 25% down to order and final balance is due upon delivery. I will collect cash/check on delivery and will take credit card information prior to delivery and charge once delivery has been completed. While I will not condone or defend another dealers policy, it is up to each dealer how they handle final payment. I have had a few instances where customers didn’t want to pay in full until the hot tub was actually hooked up and running and in those instances I did allow to leave a $500 balance open.
    3 points
  15. @cranbizUPDATE: So, we are seeing eye-to-eye! I reflow and cleaned up my repair and found that 2 of the many film capacitors didn't look right on the meter so "out with the old and in with the new" and BAM! everything is operational. Apparently, the first failure must have been the capacitor then when I reset the breaker and repowered that's when the Line-1 connector popped! Thank goodness that was it. Replacement board or entire controller $500-600 OR 2 pieces from a Amazon 100 pcs Capacitor kit for $15...FIXED!!! On another note, does anyone have any of these boards that they do not want?
    3 points
  16. Thanks for all your help everyone! I found the issue. The wiring was corroded a bit after not being used for 5 years so I cut off all the ends and rewired it and it powered up just fine. Thanks!
    3 points
  17. FIXED! So after going through what you had said at the GFCI and voltage being correct. I checked continuity between the ground and white. There was none. I went back to the panel in the garage and the white had come loose. I thought it was secure but it was completely loose. Thanks so much for the help! Hopefully this helps someone else with similar symptoms.
    3 points
  18. Starting at the pump and working back you have a 45 degree pump union glued into the gate valve, The gate valve is glued into a 2" x 2" x 2" T fitting. You have soft plumbing on the far side of the T fitting and it can be cut where the soft plumbing goes into the T fitting. You will likely have to use a 2" coupler to add in a piece of 2" plumbing to reattach it back into the T fitting. Anytime you cut something you end up 1.5-2" short. Sometimes you get lucky and have enough slack in the soft plumbing to be able to reattach it but you will likely not so you have to use a coupler and a 3" bit of 2" soft hose. NOW the difficult part... where does the other "leg" of the T fitting go to... You can't cut rigid plumbing FITTINGS and reattach a new piece. You have to go to soft hose to soft hose to the pump union and replace everything that is a rigid fitting in between. On the pump side new union then new Gate valve then new T fitting straight through to Soft plumbing. You need to dig out the last side of the T Fitting and see where it goes and if you can get to a spot with soft plumbing that you can cut add a 2" coupler and a 3" piece of soft hose to rejoin the soft plumbing back into rigid pipe and rebuild it all. If that last "leg" of the T fitting goes directly into the pump return fitting in the foot well you will be replacing that as well. You have to do all this AND get it all to line up so the pump union can sit flush up against the pump face so it doesn't leak. I attach the pump union first and work from there dry fitting everything first so you know it's flush up against the pump face. Side note.. you might have a straight section of 2" rigid plumbing that goes into the T fitting instead of soft plumbing and it could be cut and a coupler used just like with soft plumbing... cut it and add a coupler to the straight rigid pipe and use soft on the other side of the coupler to go into the T fitting. It doesn't have to be rigid pipe. Dig out that foam and see where it goes. Post more pics and we can go from there. You can buy a serviceable gate valve that can be taken apart if ever needed in the future and if they had of used one you would not be in this situation. It has o-rings that can wear out but are cheap to replace ...but that would be to easy... and we all know nothing is easy...ever. Would love to take an spa engineer/designer out for a day and say here you fix it.
    3 points
  19. If not in the equipment bay or drain, it's probably the light fitting. Those D1s are notorious for it. I'll explain how to fix it tomorrow sometime. It's a process, and it's late. Maybe there's a video out there. It's not hard, frankly it will take longer to explain it typing with one thumb on my phone than it would take me to do it. Ok, maybe that's an exaggeration, but you get the point. 😉
    3 points
  20. DO NOT GET INVOLVED WITH THIS SPA! You are being suckered. I will bet a $20 donation to my local food bank that when you go to pick it up the bottom will fall out. Free Spas are never free and that one is a money pit
    3 points
  21. @Cherrie, from Ireland, welcome to psf. @CanadianSpaTechgave you some good advice. I will stress the dealer choice. A bad dealer will make you regret whatever brand you buy, so choose your dealer as carefully as your spa.
    3 points
  22. An update on this and just to close this thread out. I checked locally to see if I could find a local guy to help troubleshoot. Most of the local shops have stopped servicing and just do chemicals now. Some will only work on models they sell. One local did track down something similar to the Balboa that RDspaguy recommended. But that was over 800.00 and did NOT include installation. After kicking around Parts vrs new Pack I decided on parts as I had a gut feeling it was the board. I was also concerned about how long it would take for a new pack. Anyway I replaced the board with this: Spa Builders by Allied Innovations - Circuit Board PCB: LX-15 ALPHA REV 5.31 - 3-60-0119 It is basically the same board with the same software version (5.31). Cost was 270.00 US. I also decided to go ahead and replace the Transformer with this: Spa Builders by Allied Innovations - Transformer, LX-10/15 With Plug 220V Systems Basically an upgraded transformer. Cost was 73.00 US. I installed them both and everything is working fine. I was thinking of just installing one or the other to pin point exactly which part was bad but you pretty much need to take it all apart for each piece. Simpler to install them both at the same time. Thanks for everyone who helped out with tips and pointers. The trouble shooting guide provided by CanadianSpaTech was especially helpful. The new board came with the jumpers configured for a 2nd motor (which I don't have), and the guide showed me which ones to set to off. The Boss is Happy !! Thanks Again !!
    3 points
  23. Also not a vita fan, but consider Sundance top of the line.
    3 points
  24. Never should have been accepted in the first place and I would be asking for replacement.
    3 points
  25. You cannot test a fuse visually, even a glass one. The filament can burn out under the metal cap and you cannot see it. Use a tester.
    3 points
  26. OK, I think I found it and holy crap, someone is really proud of that assembly. Looks like it's from an Emerald Spa and yes, Hot Tub Outpost has it for $176 https://www.hottuboutpost.com/emerald-spa-point-led-for-lighting-system-no-plastic/ I would explore the electronics guy. IMHO, that's an outrageous price. Ebay UK has it for 67 pounds to the US.
    3 points
  27. (Yawn...) I thought you were going to post something we didn't already know. Glad you're finally getting caught up... 😉
    3 points
  28. @castletonia WOW now that's quick service. Thank You and have a great weekend... Older than it looks. Picked up the spa, 15' of tech 90 wire, The 2 breaker 20/30 Amp panel box, near new cover, Cover Lifter and cover cap plus the heaviest step ever for basically removal labour cost and a 20 min $10 leak repair. Despite it's age it is a super clean well taken care of spa that won't last the weekend once posted for sale. Some days it works out for the overworked and weary. 🙏 No base rot, Pumps and pack are in perfect working order.
    3 points
  29. If you use the Metric system 1 tablespoon is approx. 15 ml and every 19 liters of water in your tub is approx 5 gallons. These values are close enough for practical use. For every 100 gallons (380 liters) of water adding 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of: 5.25% bleach will raise FC by about 2 ppm 6.0% bleach will raise FC by about 2.5 ppm 8.25% bleach will raise FC by about 3.3 ppm 10.0% bleach will raise FC by about 4 ppm 12.5% bleach will raise FC by about 5 ppm I have just learned that there is also 7.5% bleach being sold so I would expect the 7.5% bleach will raise FC by about 3 ppm (these numbers are not exact but are in the ballpark. They have been rounded to make measurements easier but should be close enough to get you where you want to be or very close to it) 10% and 12.5% bleach are normally sold as "liquid pool chlorine" 6% laundry bleach is usually called "ultra bleach" If you are using laundry bleach you want the plain,unscented, one with NO thickeners, detergents, or scents. The ingredients might list water, sodium hypochlorite, sodium chloride (salt), sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and (for laundry bleach) polyacrylic acid (used to prevent soil from redepositing back on clothes and is also the main ingredient in many polymeric pool and spa clarifiers so the small amount in the bleach will NOT have any negative impact on your water). These are either added to stabilize the bleach or are the result of the manufacturing process and are a normal part of the makeup of bleach or liquid chlorine. The ONLY differences between the different strengths of sodium hypochlorite is how much is needed to reach a given FC level in a given volume of water and the shelf life of the bleach. The more concentrated strengths need less to achieve a given FC level in a given volume of water and have a shorter shelf life before they start to degrade and lose strength. There is no reason you can't use old bleach as long as you are testing the FC and adding enough to achieve the desired level.
    3 points
  30. Do you live in an area with sub zero temps? Get a wet dry shop vac and get out as much of the dirty water out that you can. Don't worry about scrubbing it just yet. Just a light cleaning to remove any debris and algae from the seat pockets and foot well. Then fill the foot well area with water just up to the seat and leave it over night to see if it is going to hold water. Note where you fill it up to. If it holds water the continue filling it up so the water level is above the highest jet. Remove the filter and leave it out until you are sure the spa is working as it should. Just make sure there are no leaves or anything that could go down the filter hole and cause a problem. Open up the main panel and inspect the electrical connections inside the spa pack before turning the power on. If everything looks good then turn it on and see what happens. If it runs and there are no apparent leaks then set the temperature to 85 degrees and wait until it reaches 85. The you will need to buy some AHH-Some plumbing line cleaner and follow the directions to purge and disinfect the spa. Drain it and then scrub it clean. Final refill, new filter and enjoy
    3 points
  31. Hello RDspaguy: This is very typical. We have seen so much worse than this. You are correct, you MUST remove the filter(s) while purging or two things happen. The water flow is greatly diminished and the purge is compromised and second, the filter(s) do their job and clog up quickly if the bio-fouling is present. People have to read the instructions. They usually use too much gel to do the job as well. The good news RD is that hot tub owners are beginning to listen. Manufacturers and dealers are beginning to mention biofilm more often and are not as afraid that doing so will decrease hot tub sales. Actually the opposite is true. When consumers are educated about the benefits of periodic purging and draining hot tub water they find that the water clarity and maintenance issues are better and much easier.
    3 points
  32. Couldn't say. Every spa, ozonator, and control system is different, and most people with ozone aren't trying to keep a high chlorine residual. It is hard to do (as you have seen) and defeats the purpose of having ozone to begin with.
    3 points
  33. It would also need the correct/matched mazzi injector. Bubbles doesn't necessarily mean the ozone is working If you replace the ozone also replace the one way check valve and inspect the tubing going from the ozone to the mazzi injector as the line can get caked/gummed up with ozone byproduct. Any connections (tubing, barbed fittings) in the system can get brittle as they get older so have care when working on or around them.
    3 points
  34. Sounds like a bunch of b.s. I’m not a tech, but a board causing a breaker to trip seems odd. And yes, Watkins tech support would never suggest making it work by bypassing the board. A complete IQ2020 control box would cost $600-$700.
    3 points
  35. It takes alot more energy to heat up at fill-up than to maintain it, so when talking cost on your bill, you will definitely see it when you drain and refill. If used in economy mode, so that the heater can only run when the pump is already running for a filter cycle, it can save you a few $. Obviously, more heat will be lost the greater the difference between water temp and ambient air temp, but with a well insulated spa and a good cover this should still be minimal. Letting it get cool, then heating all a once will cause longer run time on the heater, like at fill, and will make any relay or heater issues more likely to show themselves. But the less often the relays switch the longer they are likely to last. You can set it as low as it will go if you like. You already know how long it will take to heat up.
    3 points
  36. No, bromide does not show up as part of the total bromine. Total bromine is a measure of hypobromous acid and bromamines. Bromamines, unlike chloramines, are effective sanitizers. Total bromine is tested the same way as Free Chlorine with DPD, FAS-DPD, tetramethylbenzidine test strips, or syringaldazine/vanillin azine test strips. Fun fact, if you want to convert the chlorine scale on your comparator or test strip container to give a total bromine reading then multiply the 'chlorine' reading by 2.25 to get total bromine. However, most comparators and test strip bottles just double the chlorine reading for their bromine scale (which is certainly close enough for the ppm levels we are testing). Testing for sodium bromide (bromide bank) is much more difficult and either involves the use of sodium bromide titrator test strips (similar but not the same as salt test test strips) or by using a chemical titration test that is beyond the scope of home users and is more involved and/or uses highly toxic reagents such as mercuric nitrate (as opposed to the much less toxic silver nitrate used in the Taylor titiration test for sodium chloride).
    3 points
  37. Test strips are notoriously unreliable. I recommend a good test kit.
    3 points
  38. See attached. Guessing that when the hot tub was converted from 110V to 220V someone forgot to change the J3 jumper to + so the heater can run concurrently with the pump on high speed.
    3 points
  39. It is economy mode. It does not save you any significant money. A 24/7 circulation pump is desirable with ozone or uv.
    3 points
  40. Ozone mixing chamber Page 232 here: https://www.filtres-spa.com/site/medias/catalogue-pieces-spa-sundance.pdf @ChrisM
    3 points
  41. Here is what we recommend to do after completing a plumbing colonoscopy or purge process. Be sure to wipe off any sticky clinging gooey gunk that has come out during the purge. Wipe this as you see it. Do NOT let this stuff dry on the shell or acrylic. Biofilm is primarily a polysaccharide, which is comprised of sugar molecules. So, sticky sticky sticky. A wet towel does a great job. After draining as much water as you can, just wipe the entire inside shell clean. Refill! One note here. When refilling be sure to add water into the filter well (where the filter(s) is (are) located to be sure that upon startup, the pump primes quickly and leaves no chance for a heater "dry fire" event. Adjust chemicals to balance the water. No need to refill, run the jets for a few minutes and drain again unless you feel that there was so much gunk released that this would be the best course of action. For the next day or so you should and may see floaters that drained back into the piping while draining the initial purge water. No big deal. Just wipe them as they accumulate around the waterline. Any hard to remove stickies can easily be cleaned off by using a small amount of the Ahh-Some Gel, 1/2 teaspoon added to 32 ounces of water in a trigger spray bottle, let it dissolve, and spray on the ares of concern. Works quite well. Hope this helps everyone.
    3 points
  42. Thank you for the callout on this particular user. In the future, please report their posts and a moderator or admin will take care of the spam posts and spam account as soon as possible.
    3 points
  43. UPDATE: A little over a year later. We purchased this spa and have been very pleased with it. It is outdoors in N. GA year round, and runs and looks great. Very happy with this spa.
    3 points
  44. HP can be irrelevant depending on how well the plumbing design was engineered. If you are trying to compare HP, ignore the claim. Find out the amp draw on each motor. That will tell you how comparable each is.
    3 points
  45. Personally never heard of WCS but I'm in Canada so.... I see the WCS uses a Waterway Spa Pack. Have not seen many in the field and have only seen them when they first started as a pack supplier several years ago. It was a different looking setup and it appears to have not caught on and they have now gone to a more traditional board set up. The fact that it is such a small company that has changed hands a few times as you say worries me given the current world situation...but perhaps that works in their favor...hard to say. Artesian Spas usually rank fairly high when the this or that question comes up. I was a little surprised at the list of "Options" that could raise the price beyond what you expect. • Pump/Heater Valves...odd that it is an option...• PermaBase ABS Pan, Led lighting, ozone As you do your research you will find many professionals on the service side say that a reputable dealer with a long proven history should be near the top of your decision making process and I agree. When looking at HP ratings take them with a grain of salt. To truly know the HP you have to look at the AMP draw ratings on the pumps. On Waterway pumps a 10 amp is a 3 hp high speed 12 amp high speed is a 4 hp a 16 amp is a 5 HP. Companies will use Brake HP and might call a 12 amp motor a 5hp. Long story short I would be leaning towards the Artesian...but a wet/dry test might tell you a different story if one "fits" you better. God Luck. Let us know what you decide
    3 points
  46. If your dealer said 6-7 months then that is probably the general lead time. Almost every manufacturer is out 6 months plus right now. Main thing to understand is that when lead times are that far out they are likely to change a bit so if your 6-7 month initial estimate changes to 6 months or 8 months, don't be surprised.
    3 points
  47. Do you have any other local options? Cal Spas isn't going to get a lot of love anywhere other than from them and their dealers. I regretfully sold Cal years ago and while not the worst spas out there, I would NEVER sell them again. Company support was horrible which made it impossible to continue and take care of the customer after the sale which is why the company I worked for dropped them. Quality wasn't great either. Didn't necessarily show up right away but as the hot tubs aged was when the lack of quality showed. If you are set on Cal then I would go with the cheaper option. Generally the simpler the hot tub Cal offers the likely better longevity with less issues.
    3 points
  48. Yeah, big fan of ozone for it's ability to oxidize. I also like mineral purifiers (silver ion) but if I had to choose it would be ozone all day long. Ozone burns off organic contaminants through oxidation (like shock) but is such a strong oxidizer that it even reacts with free chlorine. This means you can shock after heavy use and not have to soak in a bleach bath the next day, because the ozone will burn off all the chloramines and most of the chlorine overnight. Silver ion inhibits reproduction of single-celled organisms and (slowly) destroys them. It does not eliminate the need for chlorine, but allows you to use less. It is a little pricey compared to most chemicals, but worth it in my not-so-humble opinion. I use nature2 or spa frog. I have not tried any of the liquid varieties but assume they are similar. UV also burns off unstabilized chlorine rapidly and destroys bacteria in the water that flows through it, and flows a stream of sanitized water back into an unsanitized tub, just like ozone. It cannot stop the spread of pathogens in the water, and also requires a sanitizer (chlorine or bromine).
    3 points
  49. October is more realistic than September, but too many unknowns still. I’m telling my customers 12-20 weeks and to plan on the latter.
    3 points
  50. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Ahh-some works, we all know it, so why mess around with some unknown follower? Cheap means cheap, if you follow me.
    3 points
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