Leaderboard

I still think it's wired wrong. Test each one of these 3 lugs individually, and let us know which are 120v and which is the neutral. You will not get any voltage reading from the neutral lug. Also, are you absolutely sure that's the correct wiring diagram for your hot tub? It's critical.

The picture of the circuit breakers shows both of them off. The 30A GFCI appears to be wired for 110V and looks to be missing the screw/clamp on the missing leg, the 20A GFCI appears to be wired for 220V.

There is a black poly line that is not connected in the picture on the left. If that is a dry well line, leave it. It will get used when the old liner is removed to remove water from under the pool bottom. When the pool is empty or nearly so, dig a trench of front of the pad. Empty the filter and slide the pump and filter to the left more. Use the space the pad affords you to spread things. Remove all the above ground plumbing, including the union fittings on the heater (they will need replacing too). Cut back the flex on all the lines to the bottom of the trench so they lay pretty flat. That which is exposed has been burnt by the sun and is weakened. Replace the verticals coming from the ground with hard pipe. The stuff underground is likely flex pvc and should be OK but if there are collapses, termites got at it, or it's black poly (except for the dry well line) replace it all the way to the pool. The bottom drain, if it passes the pressure test, would then only need replacing near the pool. Replace the valves with Jandy Never Lubes. Both skimmers will get toasted when you remove the decking anyway. Extend the lines in front of the pad vertically with pressure rated pipe and Schedule 40 fittings. Plug the lines in the pool and pressure test them from the stubs at the pad. Removing the old deck may also take out the pool coping which usually has the liner bead track too. What is the 1/2" line at the pad? It appears to be unused. A filler supply line? Replace the drain cover with a VGB compliant one. I would replace the lines using hard pipe. If there is flex or black poly from the original install, it has a much higher failure rate. Getting at them later, after the new deck is in would not be easy. Don't do the liner yourself. That will also include the skimmer connections. The drain cover should be included. The wall fittings may need replacing too. Until they are seen, that can't be determined. Don't do the deck yourself. Have a mason and his team do it or if you're going with pavers, a hardscape specialist. Convert any side suction lines to returns. Codes have changed and side suctions have very specific needs that your pool is unlikely to meet. Avoid using flex pipe. It can fail from swelling, termites, collapses and kinking. Scott