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I will give it a shot

Ouch that hurts

If you have a Beam 1, which is the 110V version, there will be no difference in jet pressure if you run the hot tub on 220V. Only difference you will have is that the heat up time will be reduced drastically and the heater will be able to run concurrently with the jet pump. On average, you are only going to gain 1-2 degrees an hour on 110 volt so that 28 degrees in 18 hours is within reason. If you had a Beam II, which is the dedicated 220V version, then yes there would be a performance difference because it has a larger pump. Regardless which version of the Beam it is, if you're running on 220V, the heat performance and heat retention would be the same. It's been probably 2+ years since I have sat in a Beam 1. From my memory, it had very respectable jet pressure for being a 110V/220V hot tub. You will want to keep the air controls open, just like you would with most any hot tub to get the most power. You also have a diverter valve which will allow you to select which jets get max power.

A lot of the 110V tubs can be converted to 220V. Have you looked into that? For heat therapy, you are fine. Unless you are soaking for hours, you won't have a lot of heat loss and you should be able to recover before the next soak. It just will take a bit longer to recover with a lower wattage heater.

Sounds like the topside controls are bad.

And...to be clear, when you talk about "water flow coming up from the floor drain", that is from the same perforated circular plug in the floor that the bubbles come out of- that is the floor drain, right? Hot flow comes from there, can be felt with your foot when tub is full and heating...bubbles= confirmation circulation pump is running/working or I need to reach arm in and feel fir flow with my hand? Dumb question, I guess. I suppose I will replace both thermistor, did that in old sovereign circa @ 2000, not sure they are the same.

It's common for the hot tub to go into protection mode when the hi-limit thermistor goes bad. If you have water flow coming up from the floor drain then the circulation pump is running. As ratchett said, the bubbles are from the ozone mazzi. Assuming the circulation pump is running, a thermistor is the least expensive part that could need replacing in this instance and the one that would be the most common.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Ahh-some works, we all know it, so why mess around with some unknown follower? Cheap means cheap, if you follow me.