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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/16/2021 in all areas

  1. And what you did is usually what would be recommended here in a non warranty repair situation. I will say that in some cases, it really is easier and cheaper to drop in a Balboa VS501 ($500 complete) or a Gecko IN.YE ($400 complete, $500 for an IN.XE) and call it a day. This is especially true for one that has a bad heater and extensive PC board damage.
    2 points
  2. ...and find a new service tech
    2 points
  3. Ok, so it's probably heating from residual heat. Post up pictures of the PC board in the spa pack. Make sure we can see the relays and the dip switches (if any) clearly. Go ahead and order up a couple of fuses and replace the blown fuse.
    2 points
  4. I have never seen one of those, but they usually have an o-ring. It is important that the thru-bolts be tightened evenly or the o-ring can leak.
    1 point
  5. Turn counter clockwise until it stops, then force it a bit further. Use some big channel locks and a rag.
    1 point
  6. Most likely, it's a bigger problem. Buy a couple of fuses and try one. If it blows again, now you need to look further. Does this spa have a heater or is it one that heats from residual pump heat and has the useless red friction heater? When you say not heating properly, is is not heating at all or is it heating slowly? Wouldn't hurt to post up pictures of your board and equipment area so we know exactly what you have.
    1 point
  7. IF you are not using the tub set the floater to only add enough sanitizer to maintain a minimum level since there is no bather load happening. This should slow down the pH drop. You can try bumping up the TA like I suggested and see what impact that has on pH stability, both with the tub unused and with use. As long as the pH stays below 8.0 you are good. Remember, bromine does not have the pH limitation of chlorine, especially in an unstabilized or understabilized chlorine tub.
    1 point
  8. Yes, you can certainly do that. Just note that pure CYA dissolves very slowly so could take a few days to show up in the test kit, though perhaps at the higher water temperature it will dissolve more quickly. Technically, you'll be getting more consistent disinfection and oxidation levels from day 1 (assuming at least some of it dissolves quickly) compared to Dichlor-then-bleach where the first days to week when using Dichlor start out at higher active chlorine levels and then decline to the steady-state level when you switch to bleach. This should be somewhat less harsh on hot tub covers, swimsuits, skin, etc. though it's not for very long relative to the time between water changes so not a big deal. The purpose of Dichlor-then-bleach is largely for simplicity since Dichlor dissolves so quickly and many people already have it if they were doing Dichlor-only previously.
    1 point
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