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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2021 in all areas

  1. this was on the Spa Pack and top side - for anyone troubleshooting in the future that stumbles onto this thread. RN NF on the spa pack and FLO on the top-side controller. The spa pack had the RED WRENCH showing when the code was thrown. As stated above, the motor wasn't powered correctly due to blown fuse and has since been replaced. One the motor fired and started moving water over the heating element, errors cleared after a reset and i have a nice warm hot tub again.
    2 points
  2. Update: Stopped the manual shock and used the tub and the bromine levels are indeed dropping even with the ozone running (note I don’t use a floater w tabs - only initial bromide reserve seed). In theory if the ozone was constantly oxidizing the bromine at a HIGH level, the bromine level would be creeping UP not DOWN as I am seeing. So, still testing for a few more days but indications are that if the ozonator was oxidizing the bromide at a HIGH level you’d see increasing levels of bromine without shock being needed. And that doesn’t seem to be the case so far to any noticeable degree. Therefore, I’m theorizing that the ozonator does help with oxidation bromide but not near the level that is needed alone without manual usage shock or a floater. the next step for me is to continue this test and to see if I can manually maintain the bromine level with manual usage (per usage) of bleach - reactivating the bromide reserve without spiking it too high and having to wait to use the tub
    1 point
  3. all, update. i found my meter either wasn't reading resistance correctly (it's no Fluke or Fieldpiece), but i tried another borrowed meter and found a bad fuse inside the spa pack. once replaced, it fired right up! that said, i will be upgrading my meter for future trouble shooting..
    1 point
  4. It takes alot more energy to heat up at fill-up than to maintain it, so when talking cost on your bill, you will definitely see it when you drain and refill. If used in economy mode, so that the heater can only run when the pump is already running for a filter cycle, it can save you a few $. Obviously, more heat will be lost the greater the difference between water temp and ambient air temp, but with a well insulated spa and a good cover this should still be minimal. Letting it get cool, then heating all a once will cause longer run time on the heater, like at fill, and will make any relay or heater issues more likely to show themselves. But the less often the relays switch the longer they are likely to last. You can set it as low as it will go if you like. You already know how long it will take to heat up.
    1 point
  5. +1 dude! I quit digging into the chemical engineering thing too...and just stick with what i observe. If pH is high i add acid lol
    1 point
  6. I’ll see what happens and report back. Right now PH is too high 8.2. But...I think it’s a false reading due to high bromine levels. So going to let that settle down and retest. I’ve got some experimenting to do!
    1 point
  7. I’ll stop the manual bleach shock and see what happens and let you know.
    1 point
  8. That was the impression I had as well. I know that pools running liquid chlorine also run acid or CO2 on an automated, sensor controlled system. However, the chemical gurus on several forums, including @waterbear, all agree that liquid is net acidic, in spite of having a high ph in concentration, due to the hypochlorous acid produced in solution or the sanitation byproducts resulting from interaction with organic contaminants. Likewise, dichlor, which is listed to be only slightly acidic, is said to be very acidic, and a significant ph drag in the water. I have stopped arguing about it myself. The experts all say that the education and info I have picked up over the last quarter century in this business is flawed and incorrect, and the industry training, health department regulations, and CDC guidelines are wrong. So every pool and spa professional out there is doing everything wrong, because we were taught to do so. Now I try to stick to repair and equipment questions and leave the chemistry to those who know more about it than I.
    1 point
  9. Stop the manual shock and see. I don't use bromine, so am not sure how it reacts with ozone in a practical sense. In theory, ozone is an oxidizer and will create bromine from bromide. I have read in the course of researching it that it will also oxidize the bromine, but at a much slower rate than it does chlorine. But that is just a vague statement in a few scientific studies I have come across. Also, since some ozonators produce more ozone than others, and different injectors feed it in at different rates, and different systems run the ozonator for different periods of time, and different spas have different volumes, it is nearly impossible to pin down a "normal". We would be very interested in hearing the results of your experimentation.
    1 point
  10. Hot Spring does make a plug that can be inserted into the drain nipple from inside the moto-massage. This is intended to still keep the drain functional but reinforce the part that may have cracked. You will need to epoxy this in so it will require a empty hot tub to do so. In my experience, this only works about 20% of the time and there is a decent chance that if it doesn't it will further disturb the cracked nipple and make the leak worse. Part number on the plug is 1299901 and it is called a Niche Nipple Repair Plug and there is also a tool to help insert the plug, part number 1481101 called Niche Nipple Repair Tool Blank.
    1 point
  11. shocking to 10 times the cc to reach breakpoint is one of the fallacies still being taught to CPOs. Here is a quote that you might find interesting: "To oxidize monochloramine, it takes from 0.5 to 1.0 times the CC level. Even if the CC were urea, it takes 2-3 times the CC level, not 10x. Of course, the higher the FC level the faster reactions occur, but there is no magic 10x amount." - Richard Falk" The above quote is from the Orenda Technologies blog on breakpoint chlorination. Richard Falk is chem geek on this and several other online pool and spa forums. I forget if this was originally hashed out on Pool Forum or TroubleFreePool forum several years back but I was part of the orginal discussion. Also, the level of CYA needs to be taking into consideration since the higher the CYA present the higher you will need to raise the FC to oxidize the combined chloramines. If CYA is low the breakpoint level is much lower than if the CYA is high. For example, for a CYA of 30 ppm you would need to shock to 12 ppm but if the CYA is 50 ppm you would need to shock to 20 ppm to achieve the same results.
    1 point
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