Leaderboard

Sorry gang, my internet was down for a few days. That's the price you pay for living where I do. Purge is done, and I have to say I am impressed. Before: After: I don't think I have ever seen a spa pipe so clean inside. I made a video of the process but I can't upload it to YouTube on my ultra-slow internet. Next time I am in town and have a phone signal I will try again. As for the repairs: You remember this... Here it's sanded down to shell. From the other side with the setting sun behind it. The spa is standing on it's side for repairs. I used fiberglass mesh and JBweld (they don't have plastic weld down here). Then I built a wood support, leaving about a quarter inch between the wood plate and the shell for spray foam. Completed the remaining pvc repairs (hopefully the last of them, but you never know). Cold and raining today, so will get it back on blocks later to fill and test (hopefully) one last time before re-insulating and rebuilding the cabinet. I'll keep you posted.

Wow that's AHH Some! Great job on the repairs. Hope you are at the end of it. I know the feeling with "free" spas...you get into it and most times it's more that what you were told or bargained for...but you just have to keep going because you started and a rabbit hole can only be so deep...right...lol that and it's what we do. Hope you get a good return on it in the end. I try and complete 2 a month minimum and that alone usually pays the monthly bills. I am fortunate to have a steady supply of semi decent trade ins so I can be a little bit picky and get quite a few dump spas for stripping parts that often saves me $$ on fixing the good ones. Have 3 in the backyard now but the clock is ticking to get them done before the snow flies tick.. tick... tick

Personally I am against Winterizing and always try to talk customers out of it. When you take the water out of a spa the air gets at everything...seals will shrink, anything metal will rust and if ALL the water is not removed you are in for costly repairs. RV antifreeze makes a mess as well. Some spas have one way check valves inline in the plumbing and if you don't get the water from both sides of it you WILL have cracked plumbing. As a tech if I perform a Winterize and the cover blows open half way through Winter, fills with snow, thaws and refreezes then cracks plumbing Who's responsible? sure as F not me so I just don't do it anymore. Not worth the hassle. Then there is the cost.. Some folks say they want to save money on hydro. If you have to pay someone to do it you are looking at $150 - $300 in the fall and another $$$ to reopen it in the Spring so how much are you really saving. Pro Tip: Remove the diverter body from the housing and remove the o-rings then place it back into the housing upside down and you can then use your blower vac to force air into each line individually. Blow out one side give it a turn and blow out the other side. I have 3 customers that (use to but not this Year) go South to Florida for the Winter and it is quicker and easier (for me) to just go and remove the spa and bring it into heated storage/garage than it is to spend hours trying to suck and blow out lines...they are portable after all...lol Also if you do Winterize make sure to use a mold inhibitor spray on all the surfaces, pillows and the underside of the cover to prevent nasty mold from occurring. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126 I also recommend using a cover cap to prevent water from getting back into the spa during winter. https://www.amazon.ca/Cover-Guard-Hot-Tub-Protector/dp/B00IUTVOSA

As long as the tub panel has seperate 20 and 30 amp gfci breakers with neutrals wired correctly it will work fine.

Hi, Im in Halifax, West Yorkshire. I will remove the board again and get my Electronics guy to take a look at it. Will let you know how I get on. Cheers.

Need more info. Make, model and year of spa. Post pics of the topside, circuit board and schematic on inside cover if there is one. The more info you give the better the chance we can help.