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I have a Spa Touch 2 upper control unit on my spa which is made by Balboa Water Group (see attached photo ). The touchscreen developed moisture inside which caused it to stop functioning. I placed the control unit is a sealed container with lots of desiccant bags to dry it out. I was successful at getting the water out, but during one of the test cycle to see if the screen was dry enough to work, the touchscreen went into a target initialization mode. This mode is like the mode on your cell phone where it wants you to touch certain targets on the screen in order to calibrate the touchscreen. Since the control still had some moisture in it I was unable to get the initialization to work. Now that the unit is completely dry and works, the touchscreen calibration is off. I can touch the upper left "light" icon and it works, but to get the temperature "up arrow" or "down arrow" to work, I have to touch about one inch to the right of the actual symbol. Of course this means to get the control on the right side of the panel to work, I would have to touch the screen about two inches off the right side of the screen. Apparently when the control still had moisture in it and it was restarted, the moisture acted as if the touchscreen was being pressed and put the screen into an initialization mode. Now that all the moisture is out and I can control the screen, I need to know how to put the unit back into its targeting initialization mode. I assume it entails some scheme of touchs to the control screen which will start the initialization routine. Does anyone know how to put a Spa Touch control panel into its initialization mode? This panel is used by a number of different spa manufacturers and can be identified by the unique icons which Balboa uses on their controls. While my control panel is trapezoidal, the same touch screen is also used in control panels which are square. The shape of the housing has nothing to do with the actual panel or the touchscreen itself. The procedure should be the same. On a side note, if you get moisture inside your touchscreen and it stops responding to your touch, remove the control panel from the spa, place it in a sealed container (I had a vacuum jar with a plastic lid I could seal but you can use a heavy duty ziplock bag and tape the bag closed around the control panel's cord) and fill the container with desiccant packages. You can buy 50 of the small desiccant bags on Amazon for under $10. Leave the control exposed to the sun for up to two weeks and overtime, the desiccant will absorb all the moisture within the bag and it will also suck the moisture from within your touchscreen. Every four days you can take the desiccant bags and put them in the oven at 220 Deg for one hour to dry them out and "re-energize" them. You have to be patient and wait until you see absolutely no evidence of moisture under the touchscreen. The one thing I did wrong was I figured once "most" of the moisture was gone, I could test the screen to see if it worked. Since the moisture was only on the touchscreen, applying power would not fry the electronics, but it did produce some strange signal to the touchscreen which sent the control panel into its target initialization mode so the touchscreen's calibration is off, which is why I am posting here to see if someone knows how to put the screen back into its initialization mode so I can calibrate the touch screen. Hopefully my desiccant trick will help others with their moisture problem, and someone knows how to get into the touch screen initialization mode to help me fix my problem.. Thank.

vikingGoalie, Thanks for documenting this. I'm going through a motor rehab project as well and it's good to have a reference of your experience. I have nowhere near the experience of the guys helping you, but I can tell you about my experience. I bench tested all the pumps in my 'free' inherited tub using 120v, while I was waiting for my electric to be hooked up. I had a circulating pump that only draws .63 amps and I got the same behavior as you showed in your video. It needed help for it to spin, and sometimes I couldn't get it to stay spinning. I was convinced it was dead. When the 240v service was installed, it started and runs like a champ. I had other 10 amp pumps that ran great, albeit slow, on 120v but now trip my GFCI. I think that's a whole different issue (ground fault I think) but my point is that what I saw on 120v didn't really predict what I saw on 240v. I suspect that if I had run these pumps on a GFCI protected 120v circuit it would have tripped as well (that's my next step when I get one of these pumps removed). CanadianSpaTech, you mentioned testing the pump near the tub using 240v. Is it OK to hook up a pump to the spa pac and test it without water at 240v? Should this only be done with the volute off? That would be a really helpful test for me as I rehab these tripping pumps. Thanks, Rob

UPDATE: A little over a year later. We purchased this spa and have been very pleased with it. It is outdoors in N. GA year round, and runs and looks great. Very happy with this spa.