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First get a good test kit. Not strips. I like taylor k2005. Second, purge with ahhsome. Brand new spas come with all kinds of nasty in the pipes at no additional charge. They get tested at the factory then put in storage (maybe outside) then shipped on the back of a truck across country then stuck in a parking lot for a week before riding to your house. Plenty of time for a thick layer of chlorine resistant biofilm to develop. Third, read about chlorine and bromine maintenance, and choose your weapon. There are some good sticky threads in the spa water chemistry forum and lots more info online. Learn the basics and we are happy to answer any questions. Sorry to hear you have no ozone. 🥺

This sounds like a problem I had years ago! I always got a really bad rash but my wife got nothing. I was getting ready to cut the hot tub in half! I couldn't tell you how many times and how much money I spent "cleaning", draining and refilling the hot tub, only to have it happen again. I finally changed over to bromine and have not had an issue. I still shock with bleach and not MPS. I hope you get it figured out as I know it is very frustrating!

Ok here is what I see so far... Along the bottom of the circuit board there is a red bank of little white (dip) switches. They relate to the diagram on the inside cover titled "Switchbank A" You have switch A4 in the up position and it should be in the down or "off" position. This dip switch (A4) relates to freeze protection and is very likely related to the IC code you are getting. You will also have to determine "A3" this relates to what topside control panel you have installed in the spa. A7 should coincide with the buttons on the topside controller. Turn off power to spa before changing the dip switches. Next...The incoming power wires red and black. The black does not look all the way in and the red looks like there are wire strands the did not go into the holder and have folded back. The strands are live 240V and if they touch anything the will either short out whatever they touch and could possibly cause a fire or ZAP someone if they touch them. A better job needs to be done here. There is a 4 wire plug going into J50 or the AV (Audio/Video) Follow that wire back and let us know where it goes. Does it go to a stereo or to a pump? It looks like a pump connector to me. In any case the 4 wire plug is for a 240V component but the white wire beside it attached to W4 is going to "White AC" J25 it looks like or maybe J63 but doesn't matter as the White AC bank of male connectors is for 120V components...Red AC bank at the bottom left is for 240V components...So if whatever is at the other end of the wire that is plugged into J50 is a 110V component the the white W4 wire should go to white ac if it is a 240V component the the white wire at W4 should go to Red AC. But before you make any changes let us know where the 4 wire plun that goes into J 50 goes and what is at the other end. Post results