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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2020 in all areas

  1. Below is a link to my spa purge blog where I discuss a number of fun things, including ahh-some and its competitors. "part 6" of the series is where i show a photo of my PVC pipe holding my filters in place while in the ahh-some dosed vessel. While this technique is successful, I might try your trick and hang a weight onto the pipe. the length of pipe is carefully chosen to correspond with the contours of the vessel in order to keep the area in front of the skimmer weir clear. https://boisediesel.com/blog/2019/10/ahhsome-vs-leisure-time-and-proline
    2 points
  2. Yep...and if you buy it at a Coast retail store it is likely even more...but we know better
    2 points
  3. its quite common for an ahh-some purge to produce more material than any other product. yes I agree with RD -- purge again until you get an ah-some dosed spa with no new material released
    1 point
  4. you should consider the "ppm level of your bromine bank" separately from actual bromine levels. if you have a large enough bank (label directions) then you can forget the tablets and floaters and just use regular dichlor just like the chlorine guys do. if you know how to calculate the amount of dichlor that will produce 3ppm of chlorine in a chlorine aps -- just use that same amount. the bromide bank will do the magic and produce the correspondingly safe level of bromine.
    1 point
  5. A few thoughts: ozone is a strong oxidizer and, even in a chlorine spa, creates localized oxidation of contaminants that chlorine misses. but I rather agree with RD -- ozone eats chlorine so its kind of a catch-22. I turned my ozone generator off when I'm using chlorine. ozone with bromine is quite another matter 🙂 Cassie -- yes, even though I am a fan of Serum I would start simple in your case. first, purge multiple times until the recommended ahh-some dose produces no new material and your filters are in their normal positions (what I call the cleanest spa known to man). then balance pH (dont' target TA), treat for metals only if that is a problem, turn the SWG off and use straight dichlor at 3ppm.
    1 point
  6. No. These old pneumatic systems cannot be programmed and often contain a manual timer. This one likely has them preset at 2 hours twice daily. Could be a stuck relay, but more likely the thermostat in the topside board shorted or wet. This spa also has no timeout, so if left on high it will run until it overheats the pump motor or trips the manual high-limit switch, which is the reset mentioned. They trip at 118f, so the fact that the display showed 117 before it tripped verifies that both the sensor and hi-limit are ok. It may have a circuit board, but it is not "smart" like modern systems. Just a printed version of the old hardwired relays.
    1 point
  7. Frankly, I just use a block of wood. The front holes will line up with the old mounts, you just need to support the back as it is shorter than the original. You don't want it hanging off the pipes or your unions will leak.
    1 point
  8. The replacement actually has a higher amp draw on both hi and low...both have waterway wet ends 2.5 down to 2". There was a recall on the Franklin pumps made between 2002 and 2004. If you had one they will send you a new one... https://impeller.net/magazin/coast-spas-and-franklin-electric-co-recall-coast-spas-due-to-fire-hazard/
    1 point
  9. I know I'm late to the party, but that is a legit 5HP pump. The yellow pumps were 5HP and red pumps were 7HP and I'm pretty sure they can only be purchased direct from Coast or a Coast Spa retailer.
    1 point
  10. Assuming this is the FreshWater Salt System on either a Hot Spring or Caldera spa. You need soft water. If you have hard water, you need to either use a Vanishing Act Calcium Remover or a portable water softener. It has less to do with how much salt you add and more about the issues the hard water could cause. Scale build up from high hardness can impact how well the system can work, hence the need for soft water.
    1 point
  11. Let us know how it goes, we love happy endings.
    1 point
  12. Remove the pump and then remove the vent cover on the back and then see if the shaft in your case the fan will spin freely. If it does not spin then it is likely the front bearing has seized and can be rebuilt for cheaper than replacement. If it spins freely then you is likely something else electrical and would replace the pump.
    1 point
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