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perfect, thank you! Ordering now...

Sure or a skid might work. Jack stands are also used in some cases.

Hello, I have a tiger river spa, that i have previously repaired and have 6 months later sprung a leak, i cannot see the leak with the side cover off, is it possible to fill the hot tub on say 6x6 lumber or cinder blocks to supported in several spots To get the tub a foot or two in the air to shine a light and or take pictures with a phone? Any suggestions or why or why not, safety is first priority but if i can see the leak it would definitely help i have a loader to lift the tub making the repair easy, Appreciate your knowledge and ideas

Both of those are Jandy Aqualink part numbers. 520272 is the Pentair part number for the 10k-ohm thermistor, 20-feet cable temp sensor. Same part is used for both air and water so you need 2.

I have the Pentair 520615 Easy Touch System. What are the correct Part numbers for the Air & Water Temperature Sensors? I was recently provided the #R045500 #7790 part numbers, but they don't look correct...at least one of them do not. Thanks!

I am curious, what did you end up doing? I only have bubbles and heat working but I cannot control the heat or get the jet going so I'm not sure what to do.

See page 32 here for both the blue snubber(Varistor) and the terminal block: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

Thank you CanadianSpaTech - the thread you referenced seems to be covering the same or very similar problem that I am dealing with... apparently is not an isolated incident. After much delay I finally was able to get to the hot tub this weekend and did some further dismantling/trouble shooting: - Removed and inspected the board - looks fine to me and I did not see any obvious shorts/issues/damage. Pics attached, let me know if you see anything that looks unusual or problematic - Removed the snubber - looks ok visibly but based on testing per YouTube instructions it appears to be blown. I was planning to replace it anyways because it does not pass my smell test - I had a short that melted 10ga wire at the same spot where the snubber was attached... no way in my book it is still good. I will try to source one from the thread in the post above, hopefully they still have 'em. - The wire terminal/connector where the main power line connects to the board is bad due to the short. Not sure if you can see well from the pics below but the terminal is a two piece design with a rivet. I presume when the short occurred, the plastic attachment point on the terminal body melted and allowed the 2 metal pieces to come apart a bit... or it could be that that attachment point was loose and actually caused the short. Anyways, it is bad and need replacing - any ideas if that part is available to purchase or do I need to get a generic terminal piece? - Lastly, I also checked the pump where the flow sensor was dripping - under the cover everything looked fine so it appears the only damage is on the outside. I plan on disconnecting that pump when I first turn on the hot tub after i repair it, just in case. If anyone has a suggestion on sourcing a terminal replacement please let me know - the part number is GP GPT53000021 but my initial search is coming up empty for that number... As always - thank you very much for your help!

2008 Hotsprings Prodigy I installed a new Watkins heater, circ pump and ozinator into this spa and it started up fine, runs for several hours, and then threw a single red blinking light once it reaches about 100 degrees. Bleed and rested several cycles, then I replaced both the switches in the heater. After that I replaced both sensors and now when I fire it up both lights blink and I see this LIM OK light on the board. The circulation pump still works, and initially the heater works but then both lights blink (red and green - power/ready) . Only thing I can think is the the main board is bad or I did something in the plumbing to hinder flow (unlikely..) I have done the following: Purged the lines, tested and balanced the new water Replaced the filters with new TRI-X filters Verified circulation pump flow Bleed any air from the lines Replaced the heater Replaced the two sensors (thermistors)

Solved- was dirty connection on PCB. Now getting fl2 code, which is flow switch, but i can find it, my tub only has ha pressure switch, any ideas if this doubles up as a flow/pressure switch ?

I am having same issue as you describe on a 2006 hot springs jet setter. Did you figure out the cause for yours?

With the help of an electrical engineer, we dr-soldered the relays which revealed the part number which I used to order the new relays. They'll be here next Tues. What a relief this was., I was ready to condemn the board a couple of times but with the suggestions of those who replied to this discussion and insisted the board could be repaired, I'm now spending $20 instead of $459.00! I will report back as soon as the relays are installed and the tub is powered up and heating. Thanks again to everyone that replied.

@Spa Board Doctor

Who or where would I take a board to be repaired? What would the search terms be to find someone?

There isn't any numbers or letters that identify the relays whatsoever. The ones in question are the 2 directly left of the transformer in the pictures above. The diagram on the inside front panel of the box just shows 240v on each one.how can I identify the relays?

I have a 2003 Hotspring Prodigy that the LED spa light is inoperative with the controls on the front and in the tub, put 20 volts to the light and it works. The two wire connector at the board has no power or ground on the middle pin. The control that is accessible from the interior of the spa is inoperative as well. I have unplugged the phone type connector that goes to the spa side control, this made no difference. The rest of the tub works as it should. Any ideas about where to start? Thank you, Ken

I have a client who's an electrical engineer and I asked him if he was interested in replacing the relays to which he took me to his garage and showed me his soldering station! So, that was a yes. Lol. I'm ordering the relays today and will report back with the results of the board once repaired. Fingers crossed! Thanks.

Hello, I moved into a home in October that has a pretty nice inground pool and spa. The house has solar and propane. The pool system has a Minimax 400 pool and spa heater that runs on Propane, with separate thermostats for Pool and Spa. Not exactly sure how or why it has separate thermostats since by the looks of it, there is only one input and one output. That being said, the gas line that attaches to the heater runs down into the concrete and underground, but its not hooked up anymore. It appears that at some point, the previous owner decided to detach that line. My question is since I'm basically at ground zero here, and have options for both electrical and propane, what would you recommend I do? I think the old Minimax 400 is still functional since I had a home warranty guy come out and fix it so that it would turn on, but I'm not sure how efficient it would be since its from like the 80s. I've been considering a heat pump (I have seen some that can produce like 175000 BTU), an electric pool/spa heater, a gas (propane) pool/spa heater, and a hybrid unit I saw that has both electric heat pump and propane gas heating. I'm in Southern California. We don't have very many days below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Recommendations?

Hi all new here ! As title, the hot tub was filled back up today after not using this winter (uk) all was normal upon start up, slight air lock but cleared itself, left it running to heat up, gone back out to check and this display was showing 000, couldn't find any reference to this so turned off at isolator and back on, then all that would happen is the pump would turn for 1 sec and go off with nothing on the display. Now all that happens is the spa doesn't come on or show anything on the display at all. I've check power to the main lead on both sides of the isolator, so problem is something to do with the tub, anyone have similar experience or can point me in the directions of things to check ? TIA Thanks,

Hello, This is a common problem and the board can be repaired. You might want to consider having it repaired and keeping it as a spare. Spa Board Doctor

Hello, You'll want to first check that the temperature sensor is pushed all the way in to it's thermowell. If the back of the sensor is positioned outside of the thermowell it may be sensing the ambient temperature of the cabinet and not the vessel temperature. It could also be a sticking or stuck on heater relay on the circuit board. This is a repairable failure. Spa Board Doctor

Thanks, there was no rust, but someone with 20 years experience in the industry said that was! uh oh. Hydropool are saying that they've never seen the plastic filter grill fade before either.

I have noticed it produced some visible vapors when I do it incorrectly.

NO NO NO NO NO!!!! ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND! If you ever had high school or college chemistry you learned this. Adding water to acid could cause it to splatter because of the heat generated. (This also applies to dry acid). Safety first! https://sciencenotes.org/add-acid-to-water-or-water-to-acid/ https://support.al.umces.edu/safely-diluting-acids-and-bases/ The referral to strong acids in these articles is not talking about the concentration but it is referring to the group of acids that completely dissociate (give up all their hydrogen) in water as opposed to weak acids that do not completely dissociate. There are 7 strong acids including sulfuric, nitric, and hydrochloric (aka Muriatic). All other acids are weak acids and include citric, acetic, oxalic, and hydrofluoric. Be aware that just because an acid is classified as weak does not mean it is not extremely caustic or dangerous.glacial acetic acid and hydorfluoric acid can cause severve burns and injuries.

Couple of pics of what you have might help us with recommendations. Is it wood and if so how thick is it? There are all kinds of portable "Bubblers" made for bathtubs and such. What are your expectations? If you just want the water to move you could even just place a drain pump without the garden hose attached in the foot well and it will move water. Whatever you decide make sure it is GFCI protected.