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I recently acquired an older Caldera hot tub, and unsurprisingly, it came with some issues given its age (2008). Every other day, it displays four flashing lights on the control screen, rendering it inaccessible until I reset the power. Despite replacing the filter, circulation pump, and pressure switch, the problem persists. I suspect the temperature sensor may be inaccurate, but I'm unsure of the next steps.

yes

Looks like the flow switch was the issue. Thanks for the help.

I have owned three spas and five spa covers over the past years. I need to order a new cover asap, but am feeling very discouraged in my research. I have looked at several covers online and am just not feeling very confidant in any of them. I have been mostly satisfied with my covers until my current one. It was made by a company called Hot Tub Works, which seems to no longer exist. I researched a lot before I bought that one, but apparently succumbed to some very slick advertising and false information on their website. I do not want to make this same mistake again. I would very much appreciate input on who is making a quality cover these days. Personal recommendations welcome. I have a Jacuzzi J-345 and live in the Pacific Northwest. Thank you so much.

Update, April 17: So far, so good, no leak. However, even though I drained out 98% of the existing water that February day and tried flushing out the "dead volume" with fresh water, there could still be some of the hardened leak seal chemical "in place" doing its job. So more time is needed...

Looking back at my post, I was not clear, Id like to fill it with water and test it to find the leak, if supported on all four corners and in the center would 6x6's work? like 3 6x6x8 running perpendicular to the treated 2x4s underneath that make ground contact Is that enough support with the weight of the water? cinder blocks at each corner and in several spots in the middle to distribute load? the tub is in great shape so id like to avoid destroying it.

I believe so but don't hold me to that.

Same dE problem. Aquapure 1400 salt cell. I pressed the C and D buttons for 5 seconds (wait for 2nd beep), it would reset and run properly but it would always end up going back to dE at some point while running or always when the pump restarted. I called Aquapure, but they would not help, said I had to call a local dealer. Knowing all my local dealers are unknowledgeable or are con-artists and will only sell you new equipment. So I bought a new back circuit board and solved the problem. Shop for board R0467600 is the listed board #. You will see E0261700 printed on the middle of the board. Very easy to do. Turn off breaker, disconnect all the plug in ribbons and wires. Take pictures of the order of the wire colors for any of the individual wires, so you connect them back in the correct order. Pro tip: Use a magnetic driver to hold the screws when removing the board from the box, as you will not be able grab them with your fingers, and they drop into the abyss if you let them drop. Standard metal box screws, so easy to replace, but easier to use a magnetic driver. The Board generally looks in good condition so I suspect a resistor or capacitor is blown. If I have time I will see if I can find what caused the board to fail and update this post.

perfect, thank you! Ordering now...

Sure or a skid might work. Jack stands are also used in some cases.

Thank you for your response. Might it be the same number for the heater temperature?

Hello, I have a tiger river spa, that i have previously repaired and have 6 months later sprung a leak, i cannot see the leak with the side cover off, is it possible to fill the hot tub on say 6x6 lumber or cinder blocks to supported in several spots To get the tub a foot or two in the air to shine a light and or take pictures with a phone? Any suggestions or why or why not, safety is first priority but if i can see the leak it would definitely help i have a loader to lift the tub making the repair easy, Appreciate your knowledge and ideas

Both of those are Jandy Aqualink part numbers. 520272 is the Pentair part number for the 10k-ohm thermistor, 20-feet cable temp sensor. Same part is used for both air and water so you need 2.

I have the Pentair 520615 Easy Touch System. What are the correct Part numbers for the Air & Water Temperature Sensors? I was recently provided the #R045500 #7790 part numbers, but they don't look correct...at least one of them do not. Thanks!

I am curious, what did you end up doing? I only have bubbles and heat working but I cannot control the heat or get the jet going so I'm not sure what to do.

See page 32 here for both the blue snubber(Varistor) and the terminal block: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

Thank you CanadianSpaTech - the thread you referenced seems to be covering the same or very similar problem that I am dealing with... apparently is not an isolated incident. After much delay I finally was able to get to the hot tub this weekend and did some further dismantling/trouble shooting: - Removed and inspected the board - looks fine to me and I did not see any obvious shorts/issues/damage. Pics attached, let me know if you see anything that looks unusual or problematic - Removed the snubber - looks ok visibly but based on testing per YouTube instructions it appears to be blown. I was planning to replace it anyways because it does not pass my smell test - I had a short that melted 10ga wire at the same spot where the snubber was attached... no way in my book it is still good. I will try to source one from the thread in the post above, hopefully they still have 'em. - The wire terminal/connector where the main power line connects to the board is bad due to the short. Not sure if you can see well from the pics below but the terminal is a two piece design with a rivet. I presume when the short occurred, the plastic attachment point on the terminal body melted and allowed the 2 metal pieces to come apart a bit... or it could be that that attachment point was loose and actually caused the short. Anyways, it is bad and need replacing - any ideas if that part is available to purchase or do I need to get a generic terminal piece? - Lastly, I also checked the pump where the flow sensor was dripping - under the cover everything looked fine so it appears the only damage is on the outside. I plan on disconnecting that pump when I first turn on the hot tub after i repair it, just in case. If anyone has a suggestion on sourcing a terminal replacement please let me know - the part number is GP GPT53000021 but my initial search is coming up empty for that number... As always - thank you very much for your help!

2008 Hotsprings Prodigy I installed a new Watkins heater, circ pump and ozinator into this spa and it started up fine, runs for several hours, and then threw a single red blinking light once it reaches about 100 degrees. Bleed and rested several cycles, then I replaced both the switches in the heater. After that I replaced both sensors and now when I fire it up both lights blink and I see this LIM OK light on the board. The circulation pump still works, and initially the heater works but then both lights blink (red and green - power/ready) . Only thing I can think is the the main board is bad or I did something in the plumbing to hinder flow (unlikely..) I have done the following: Purged the lines, tested and balanced the new water Replaced the filters with new TRI-X filters Verified circulation pump flow Bleed any air from the lines Replaced the heater Replaced the two sensors (thermistors)

Solved- was dirty connection on PCB. Now getting fl2 code, which is flow switch, but i can find it, my tub only has ha pressure switch, any ideas if this doubles up as a flow/pressure switch ?

I am having same issue as you describe on a 2006 hot springs jet setter. Did you figure out the cause for yours?

With the help of an electrical engineer, we dr-soldered the relays which revealed the part number which I used to order the new relays. They'll be here next Tues. What a relief this was., I was ready to condemn the board a couple of times but with the suggestions of those who replied to this discussion and insisted the board could be repaired, I'm now spending $20 instead of $459.00! I will report back as soon as the relays are installed and the tub is powered up and heating. Thanks again to everyone that replied.

@Spa Board Doctor

Who or where would I take a board to be repaired? What would the search terms be to find someone?

There isn't any numbers or letters that identify the relays whatsoever. The ones in question are the 2 directly left of the transformer in the pictures above. The diagram on the inside front panel of the box just shows 240v on each one.how can I identify the relays?

I have a 2003 Hotspring Prodigy that the LED spa light is inoperative with the controls on the front and in the tub, put 20 volts to the light and it works. The two wire connector at the board has no power or ground on the middle pin. The control that is accessible from the interior of the spa is inoperative as well. I have unplugged the phone type connector that goes to the spa side control, this made no difference. The rest of the tub works as it should. Any ideas about where to start? Thank you, Ken