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I’ll try the Buss fuses today. Pump/heater does not run at all. i believe the incoming power is ok, but given the power surge, that is certainly worth checking.

Test the 2 green buss fuses that say SC25 or SC 30 on them. Does the heating/filtering related pump run in low or the circ pump if it has one? Test the incoming power and make sure you have 240V red to black and did not lose a leg in the gfci when it took the hit.

Did you install the new flow switch in the right direction? When the circ is running the toggle in the flow switch should get pushed up against the post making a connection. Verify that it is making the connection. if it is making the connection but you still have a flo error you could try to jumper the flow switch but you will need to verify that the circ is flowing water.. or disconnect the heater from the board for testing so if the heater engages and there is a flow issue it won't go nuclear (only takes a split second to get really hot). I recommend disconnecting the heater for testing. Is the new circ the same voltage as the original? (120V or 240V) Next I would be looking at and testing the sensors. See page 55 below for resistance chart You might find help here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf

I have a 2002 Sundance Altamar that I got from a customer of mine. I replaced the circulation pump before I even turned on the tub. I start the tub for the first time and I am getting a FLO code. Here is what I have done, I’ve made sure to the best of my knowledge bled all the air from the system, I have removed the main filter, and I have replaced the flow sensor. Nothing has been able to remove the FLO code. It is flashing the FLO code between the water, temp, and cool signs. The other two pumps and the circulation pump work like they are supposed to and seem to run fine. I am asking on here before I decide to call a service tech.

We had a power surge last night and when I went to use my hot tub (about a 2007 Coleman (Maax) 461 with Balboa electronics, it read “STU” (motor stuck?). As usual, first troubleshooting step - power off and power on. That replaced the message with “HOT” (something overheated?). Everything was nice and cool, so I powered it off, moved A1 up to test mode, powered it on and got “OHH” (Overheat?) , which is where it now sits. Kind of strange as it happened in the middle of the night with the tub in standby on a 40° F night. I just started researching it, but figured I’d reach out and see if anybody has the “magic bullet” (not the food processor). I took a pic of the Balboa circuit board if that helps. Thanks, in advance, to anybody that can get me a couple more nice nights in the tub, before the brutal Texas summer rolls in. All thoughts and opinions welcome! Thanks!

Hello, I have a Coleman Saluspa. Pump is always on to keep the water warm. But the pump is making a humming noise, particularly strong if you are far away (50ft) due to the low frequency noise. The spa is on a concrete, in a corner consisting of a wall and a wood fence. The pump is on a thick rubber mat to absorb vibrations. But the pump still makes a loud humming noise that propagates to the neighbor's houses. Any suggestion to isolate the noise? Could I build some kind of a box using plywood + foam and put the pump inside it?

Hello, We inherited a spa with a new house and it works but doesn't have a filter. The manufacturer on the tag is Sunset Spas and they appear to be out of business. Were they ever doing business under another name that I could search for the filter type with? They don't come up in any searches that I can do for filters by manufacturer. Thanks for any help!!

I took am having problems replacing the valve collar on the water feature in my Hot spring Grandee hot tub. I bought a new part, but cannot work out how to replace it on the 'tap' piece.

Pump bearings and seals wear out and are normal replacement parts. Pumps are either full rated or uprated. Up rating is a marketing ploy using a sneakly little number called the service factor to make it seem your pump is more powerful than it is. (HP rating x service factor = brake HP) Since you didn't give us the model number of your Hayward pump I don't know which yours is. However an uprated 1.5 HP pump will have the same brake HP as a 1 HP full rated model (Full rated pumps use a service factor of 1..and a full rated 1.5 HP pump is the same as a 2 HP uprated model. As to whether you need more HP for your solar heating, is it working properly now or have you had an appreciable pressure drop when you installed it? You might want to look into a variable speed pump and increase your brake HP a bit so you have some reserve in case you need it when the solar is on and run at a lower speed if you are bypassing it. This will save you quite a bit on electrical power in the long run and you will also get better filtration running at a lower speed.

Sides and floor are 1 1/2” cedar. Just want some bubbling in water to mix hot and cold water up plus bubbles makes it look nicer lol.I put about 30-34 inches of water and it takes aprox 6 hrs to raise temp from 6 to 38 degrees . Ps: grandson trying it out to see if it fits him. Lol

What happened with this pool? I am thinking of getting a bio design pool in Georgia

Hi, I had to replace the main board. After consulting with a local technician we came to conclusion this was due to the thunderstorm I few nights before. Quite normal defect after current spikes in the grid. good luck

@ydragos Please start your own post and describe your issue and post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover

I’m looking for help on a new above ground pool pump. We had a 1.5hp 2 speed Hayward pump that was working well. A few years ago we installed 25 -12ftx2ft solar panels on our 2 storey garage. However our yard is tiered and the garage is on lower level. Pool is on higher level. Pump is on far side of pool so has to run through tubing all around 21 ft x 54” pool then up about 10ft to garage roof. The pump we had was working well for a couple years but last year started sounding louder so we took it in and they said it had a bad bearing. Quoted us same price of a new one to fix. So here we are looking for a replacement. My question is do we need something else? Did we wreck it since we added the solar panels? It would run on low and heat that pool in a few days. If ran on high it wouldn’t heat as it ran through the panels to fast. But i don’t want to buy something underpowered either? All this talk of head pressure etc is over my head. 🙈 I have tried to understand

So what ended up being everyone's issue? I'm yet another person with it happening with their Hotspring hot tub. Turn it on, jets operate fine, but after a short period the lights turn off and the Ace System gets disabled (no error light, just no lights at all on the little pack).

did you figure it out? I have the same issue

I recently acquired an older Caldera hot tub, and unsurprisingly, it came with some issues given its age (2008). Every other day, it displays four flashing lights on the control screen, rendering it inaccessible until I reset the power. Despite replacing the filter, circulation pump, and pressure switch, the problem persists. I suspect the temperature sensor may be inaccurate, but I'm unsure of the next steps.

yes

Looks like the flow switch was the issue. Thanks for the help.

I have owned three spas and five spa covers over the past years. I need to order a new cover asap, but am feeling very discouraged in my research. I have looked at several covers online and am just not feeling very confidant in any of them. I have been mostly satisfied with my covers until my current one. It was made by a company called Hot Tub Works, which seems to no longer exist. I researched a lot before I bought that one, but apparently succumbed to some very slick advertising and false information on their website. I do not want to make this same mistake again. I would very much appreciate input on who is making a quality cover these days. Personal recommendations welcome. I have a Jacuzzi J-345 and live in the Pacific Northwest. Thank you so much.

Update, April 17: So far, so good, no leak. However, even though I drained out 98% of the existing water that February day and tried flushing out the "dead volume" with fresh water, there could still be some of the hardened leak seal chemical "in place" doing its job. So more time is needed...

Looking back at my post, I was not clear, Id like to fill it with water and test it to find the leak, if supported on all four corners and in the center would 6x6's work? like 3 6x6x8 running perpendicular to the treated 2x4s underneath that make ground contact Is that enough support with the weight of the water? cinder blocks at each corner and in several spots in the middle to distribute load? the tub is in great shape so id like to avoid destroying it.

I believe so but don't hold me to that.

Same dE problem. Aquapure 1400 salt cell. I pressed the C and D buttons for 5 seconds (wait for 2nd beep), it would reset and run properly but it would always end up going back to dE at some point while running or always when the pump restarted. I called Aquapure, but they would not help, said I had to call a local dealer. Knowing all my local dealers are unknowledgeable or are con-artists and will only sell you new equipment. So I bought a new back circuit board and solved the problem. Shop for board R0467600 is the listed board #. You will see E0261700 printed on the middle of the board. Very easy to do. Turn off breaker, disconnect all the plug in ribbons and wires. Take pictures of the order of the wire colors for any of the individual wires, so you connect them back in the correct order. Pro tip: Use a magnetic driver to hold the screws when removing the board from the box, as you will not be able grab them with your fingers, and they drop into the abyss if you let them drop. Standard metal box screws, so easy to replace, but easier to use a magnetic driver. The Board generally looks in good condition so I suspect a resistor or capacitor is blown. If I have time I will see if I can find what caused the board to fail and update this post.