motofan12

I replaced the heater relay, same issue. I used a meter to test voltage into and out of the relay at the white and black power leads. 115ish on one side, 120ish on the other, into and out of the relay. Next I put one lead on the black power and the other lead on the white power at the relay input and output and 244V. I'm assuming that since the output leads of the relay go directly to the heater is means the heater has failed? If this is so why is the heater tube with the element in it hot in spots? Don't get me wrong, the element tube is mostly cool but there are hot spots. Should I just replace the heater or look into rebuilding it? Any suggestions on the best place, cost wise, to purchase a new heater?

Before I reinstalled everything and filled the tub I decided to remove the circuit board and inspect the back side of the board. The board is perfect looking. I reinstalled the board and reconnected all the wiring. Next I looked to the left of the board where the heater wires connect. I think I found the issue. What I believe is a relay, the one that the black and white wires from the heater plug into, has a small white "jumper" wire above where the white wire from the heater connects and the terminal above the white heater wire is burnt and I cant remove the left side of the small jumper wire. As I look in closely it appears that the terminal isnt even making contact with the relay terminal. I think a new relay and repair to the wire will correct the concern. I will update when I have tried this.

Thanks for the info. I will fill reinstall the heater and fill the spa. I dont have a service repair manual so I'm not sure what readings I should have. I know there are only 3 wires for the heater, green (ground?), white (neutral?) and black (power?). I'll test at the connections at the circuit board first ( what readings should I have at the three connections?) Any other suggestions?

I ohm'd the black and white wires and I'm getting 15 ohms on the 200 scale setting, I'm assuming this is good. I next ohm'd from the white to the tube casing to test for a short and it shows open as well as from the black wire, this is showing me its not shorted internally. I next ohm'd the limit and control switches that screw into the heater and they show good continuity as well. I then removed the tubes to visually inspect. No signs of overheating on the heating elements, no hard water scale build up at all and no signs of obstructions. Wow, am I lost. A diagnostic service manual with testing procedures, wiring diagrams and specs would be awesome. I'm open to any thoughts and advice please.

My hot tub heater isnt working. I have a 2000 Tiger River Bengal with ozonator and a Watkins 240V 6,000W No-Fault heater with a IQ2000 control. The tub was working perfectly. I shut the 20 and 30amp breakers off, removed the filter (the water and filter area were very clean) drained the tub,installed a new filter, filled the tub, ran the jets as usual when I do this, treated the water and installed a silver ion cartridge as I have always done. Everything was as normal. A few days later I went to use the tub and the water was luk warm. The control pad operated normally, the jets all operate and the water is circulating. I checked the IQ2000 circuit board and the top green light (LM) is lit soild, the next red light down (Heater) is lit solid and the next light down (connector disconnected) is NOT lit, all normal. There is no reset on the heater. Just a reset of the breakers is supposed to reset the heater. I tried this several times and no luck. I verified to the best of my ability that there is no obstructions of air or debris. My problem is how do I test the system? I have the heater out and it looks ok. 1. How do I bench test the heater? 2. The tub is drained and the heater removed, can I test the electrical? I dont know if there is power from the circuit board to the heater but I'm not sure how to test for this anyway. I cant find a service manual, only the owners manual which is usless in this case. There are three wires, white, black and green. I assume the green is ground but I'm not sure on the black and white, how to test them and I get nervous with 240V. 3. I have not removed the circuit board but I dont smell any burning smell or see any signs of heat damage to the front of the board.