zspas

Here is some extra tips to Testing the BALBOA Sensor Set and how to Removing the BALBOA Heater Assembly from a Spa System Testing the Sensor Set Check sensor wires for cracks or damage that may indicate the presence of a rodent. Inspect the connections of both sensors on the circuit board. The plugs must be clean. If the sensors are not totally failing but are showing excessive (1.0°C/2.0°F or more) difference between the two sensors when not heating (a possible cause of Sn/ SnS/SENSOR SYNC, HL/HFL/HTR FLOW LOW, and LF/ LOW/FLOW/messages), do the following: Note which sensor is reading consistently higher (A vs B or t vs H). Unplug the two sensors from the circuit board and exchange their positions (i.e., plug the one that was in the "Sen. A" jack into the "Sen. B" jack and vice versa). Press a panel button if any "stray" faults appeared during the process. (Stray faults are normal when sensors are unplugged then plugged back in while the system is running.) Within a minute or so*, see if the same or other sensor is now reading consistently higher: UÊ If the same sensor (A vs B or t vs H) is reading higher after the sensor interchange, the problem is on the circuit board. Replace the circuit board. UÊ If the opposite sensor is now reading higher, the problem is with the sensor(s). Replace the sensor set. *If you wait more than 2 minutes after plugging the sensors back in, heating may start (even outside a filter in Economy or Sleep mode) due to a stray Cd/CLd/COLD WATER condition usually detected when sensors are being plugged in while the system is running. If there is a message indicating an open or faulty sensor: UÊ Unplug the sensor set (but leave the original sensors in the heater) and plug in the test sensor set. Put both sensors into the same cup of warm water (ideally above the set temperature, so the spa won't try to heat during this test, as there is no heater protection during this test) and verify that they read the same temperature (within 0.5°C/ 1°F). UÊ If the problem is solved, replace the sensor set. If the problem is not solved, do not replace the sensor set. UÊ Plug in the original sensor set to verify that there is not a connection problem. UÊ If the problem continues after following the above steps, then replace the circuit board. Removing the Heater Assembly from a Spa System Note: Be careful when removing a heater assembly from a spa plumbing system. Water may splash out under pressure. Water under pressure in the plumbing may splash out, and onto the system's electronic board. Do not remove the system door until the water has been drained from the heater assembly tube. Turn off the main power. Close off the slice valves (or, ball valves) adjacent to the heater assembly. Once the valves are closed, slowly crack the heater assembly end tubes until water flows out. If the connectors are on too tight, it may be necessary to loosen the Phillips screws that hold the connectors together. Once the water has been drained, continue. Remove the system door cover. Remove the nuts securing the copper straps to the heater assembly's terminal connectors. Be sure to use a supporting end wrench on the lower nut. Otherwise, excessive torque may be occur on the straps and put undue stress on the PCB. Remove the heating assembly sensor wires and replace if necessary. Remove both nuts that secure the element in place. Remove the heater assembly.

There are two kinds of ozone generator 1, ordinary ozone generator 2, ozone generator with air pump build in, air pump push O3 into spa, so there are many bubbles, you feel it is stronge

Hi, it is easy,repair shell is same like repairing your care, the process is same way, so you could go to car repair shop, find some one to repair your shell. If you need some photo, how to do it, you could send me email: [email protected] Ken

1, after years hot tubbing, consumption amps will increase, so you may need more amps supply for spas. 2, problem in presssure switch inside of heater