Soaker44

Checking in.....I have had my CSXi80 for over 2 years now...it's been great...no regrets. Seems Costco prices have gone up, not the same exceptional value they were, but still better value than "other" places to buy a spa! What happened to the "Hows your Costco Evolution Spa working" thread????

The lifetime Costco 100% refund policy makes the Warranty a AAAA+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ !! Also, the Caldera Marino weighs 300 pounds less than the Strong CSXi80...must be a cheaply constructed tub..... (I just like to add some fodder to the fire...)

What is this "more efficient" way to reclaim motor waste heat? (rather than let the hot motor air waft under the spa shell)

For clarification, the thing you call a "conductor" is actually called a "contactor", which is the industry name for a high current relay.

The 115VAC pump is connected to one HOT and Neutral (115VAC). The 220V is between the two HOTs. Typically, in a convertable spa, the heater is the only component which is configurable to run on 110VAC or 220VAC.

Try contacting Balboa support, maybe you can buy a service manual or a troubleshooting guide. Or try searching the internet and ebay : there are many companies selling service manual reprints for a vast array of items, going back many years.

I think the Schlage "Link" system can be easily modified to provide internet spa temp monitoring and control. But, you need an internet connection, and pay $12 a month fee for the "Link" service. I have not actually done this, but here is the concept: Home Depot (or Lowes) carries these items : Buy the wireless Schlage/Trane thermostat>> http://link.schlage.com/Products/Pages/Thermostat.aspx Buy a starter kit to get the wireless internet "Bridge" module (I don't see it sold seperatly)>>> http://link.schlage.com/Products/Pages/DeadboltStarterKit.aspx Buy a 24VAC "doorbell" transformer (to power the thermostat) 1) Open the thermostat and "remote" the temp sensor...2 wires, waterproof the sensor and put it in the tub water. Locate the thermostat and the 24VAC transformer inside the spa cabinet. This is all "safe"... the 24VAC transformer isolates the thermostat circuits from the 220VAC lines. 2) Disconnect the spa water temp thermistor, and connect the spa controller end of those wires to the "Air Conditioning demand" terminals of the Schlage/Trane thermostat, with a simple 2 resistor network (based on the resistance of the thermistor temp sensor actually used in the spa) to connect to the spa controller. One Resistor is a large ohm value, hooked across the spa controller temp sensor wires, which simulates a cold water temperature, which causes the heater to turn ON. (You need this so the controller does not flag an "Open Circuit Temp Sensor" fault). The Trane thermostat relay contacts connects the 2nd, lower Ohmic value resistor, across the first resistor, which makes the spa controller think the water is too hot, which turns the heater OFF. The second resistor must not be too low a value, otherwise the spa controller will flag a "Spa Overheat" fault. 3) Set the mode of the thermostat to "Air Conditioning" 4) Now the heater will be controlled by the internet-remote-controlled Trane thermostat, and you can remotely monitor the actual spa water temperature.

I bought the under mount cover lifter from "patiosplash" from Ebay, $163 includes shipping, for my CSXi80. This cover lift requires no holes to be drilled into the cabinet, plus it works with the rounded corners of the Strong Evolution Spas.

http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21792 See my solution for this remote control problem...at the end of the topic thread.

I have a solution for you : Basically, connect a 10K-Ohm resistor, thru the terminals of a relay, across the two wires of the existing spa water temperature sensor thermistor. This will make the spa controller think the water is hotter than it really is, the 10KOhm value would give you an actual water temperature of 80F (the spa temp display will show 102F). The resistor is switched by the output of a X10 "Universal" relay output module. When the relay is energized, the spa temperature will be 80F if the spa controller temperature set-point is 102F. If the relay is de-energized ( thru an X10 remote signal), the spa controller will work "normal" (actual water temp = 102F when the spa controller is set to 102F). So, when you are away, the water temp will be 80F, and even if the power fails and returns, the spa temp will be controlled to 80F (because of the X10 module relay stays in whatever was its last state). This is how the 102F default temp setpoint of the controller is overidden when the power is restored. When you want to visit, send the X10 command via phone (or internet), which turns OFF the relay, causing the spa to heat to the normal 102F. Sometimes complex "digital" problems have simple "analog" solutions!! I can send you a PDF schematic of this if you send me your email You could use a potentiometer in place of the fixed 10K resistor, then you have a setable "away" temperature. My choice of the resistor value is based on the info I found about the temp sensor used in the IQ2020 spa-pack. There are two temp sensor thermistors, you want to conect to the temp regulation one, at the INLET of the heater, versus the OverTemp Protect thermistor which is probably located at the OUTLET end of the heater tube. X10-UM506 Universal Module $15 from thehomeautomationstore.com Resistor, 10K Ohm, 5-pack, Radio Shack 271-006 $0.99

Relays can be replaced, if you can solder, and find the exact or equiv relay. I have done replacements on numerous electronic circuit boards.