patfan64

I thought maybe the pro ran out of threaded plugs, and had to use a cork. Actually had a pool guy call me back and he edumacated me. Thanks for your response, pc.

No, the cork line was not threaded. I have called the pro and I can't get a return call. Thanks

I am trying to open my pool (I know I'm late) and it was closed by a pro last year. I found three pipe openings at the bottom of my spa (integrated with the pool.) One was not closed (I imagine that is the link to the main drain) and two were. One had a threaded cap and the other a rubber cork looking thing. I've got one pump that runs both pool and spa. It is a gunite pool and probably 20 years old, if that helps. Do I need to remove both the threaded and cork? I hope I've given enough info. Thanks

All the heaters are about the same. If you likes your Laars heater buy another just not a LX model. Sta-rite make a max e therm heater and are OK some love them some hate em. Hayward just came out with a new heater with fan assist combustion because it is so small. Can't tell how reliable it will be. Hayward does make good products though. Raypack is another company who been making heaters a long time and I can tell you the older ones used to be the best around. The new one I did see at a pool opening is easy to use and they still make the most quiet heater while burning. Were do you live and how do heat your pool? If you live in warmer cliamte and like to maintain heat in your pool look into a heat pump by Heat Siphon I'm in CT and looking to extend the season. I've also got a hot tub incorporated in the pool so it would be nice to actually use the hot tub. I use propane. I have heard about Raypack. All good things. I'll look into them. Thanks ps.

I am replacing a Laars Lite II heater shortly and I was wondering if anyone could tell me in which direction I should go. I was told by a friend that if I bought another Laars Lite, the plumbing issues would be minimal (makes sense.) I am handy and can run PVC so that isn't too much of an issue. I'm looking at 400,000 BTU's running off of propane. Don't really care if I have a digital readout. Should I expect to spend about $1,500? Also, does StaRite or Hayward make better heaters?

I am by no means an expert (not even close.) I bought a 1.5HP Hayward Super II Pump at the beginning of the season this year and I am very happy. I've got a 33,000 gallon IG pool and I run the filter 10 hours per day. After first prime, the pump has never run more than 30 seconds before finding its prime again. These pumps come wired for 115V and 230V. I had issues earlier in the season with my circuit panel so I ran the pump on 115 for a while. I fixed problem in the panel and now the pump is hard wired to the circuit panel. The pump cost me $750 which I thought was pricey. I didn't shop around so I can't complain. Good luck.

Thanks, Jay. I've actually decided that the leak could be in the return line in that skimmer. It's the same line that I used to use when I vacuumed. I was told that I was losing suction in that line a while ago and never put two and two together. I bought a Dolphin and kind of forgot about the no suction issue. Now what are the chances that the return lines meet at a "t" somewhere closer to the filter pad and away from my recently poured concrete deck?

I've been leaking water since I can remember. I haven't run the filter in two days and the water level is now down to the skimmer. I've got a 20' x 40' gunite pool with four returns and two skimmers. The water level seems to have stopped at the shallow end skimmer. I'm thinking that I may have had some separation of the skimmer from the pool wall. I've seen two products for this repair. One is an expandable foam (like Great Stuff) that is injected into a 1/4" inch hole that I would have to drill near the skimmer. The other is a putty that claims to work under water. Does anyone have any experience with either of these two solutions? I am very handy and I'm wondering if could handle this repair myself or should I spend the money on an expert? Thanks

You are correct, it is the gasket fot between the valve and sand tank Thanks, ps. Last dumb question (maybe.) I didn't fill the filter with water after putting the sand in. I only filled it halfway with water and then the sand. There was probably a six inch gap between the water line and the top of the filter. Seems to be quite a bit of air in the system. I would have thought that running the filter for a few days would have sorted this out but it hasn't. I also have a bypass line that runs from the line between the pump and filter and then goes to the pool return. I'm pretty sure that was pressure relief from the old cartridge filter. Should I get rid of the bypass line now that I am using sand? Thanks again.

There was a bag of stuff in the box that the multiport valve came in (part of the filter box. The bag contained the clamps that hold the valve in place, the screws, square nuts and plastic covers for the exposed screws. There was also a blue o-ring. I couldn't find one mention if it in the directions. I assume it fits over the bottom of the multiport valve and acts as a gasket between the valve and the top of the filter. Is that correct or could it be an extra o-ring for inside the valve when that one wears out? Thanks

Thanks ps. I don't expect to have to add antifreeze to the filter for the winter (I'm in CT.) Not sure what you mean by "put union near multiport valve."

I wonder about the need for the balloon, as well. I'm also in CT. I've got a solid safety cover but would love to keep snow and ice from accumulating on the cover. Any thoughts?

Most of the plumbing around the returns and off the pump is 2". Should I keep it at 2" and reduce it to 1.5" at the multiport valve or reduce it to 1.5" earlier in the run. Also, there are some T connections at each end of the current cartridge filter with what looks like a plug on the threaded end of the pipe (for future draining?) Do I need those t connections with the sand filter or would 90 degree elbows be sufficient? Thanks

Problem solved. I had a straight fitting (pointing to the sky) off of the return line. The backwash hose was hose clamped to that and apparently restricting flow (as the hose would crimp or lay down off the fitting.) I put a 90 degree fitting on and it worked like a charm.

I have suction issues in my gunite pool. I've got a TriClops 300 cartridge filter. I was told a few years back that I can't get proper suction from the skimmer line so I bought a Dolphin and that has been working great. This past winter, my cover fell in my pool. Leaves and debris collected at the bottom and I can't seem to get everything out. I had a pool company come and porta vac a few years back and I figured I could just build one myself. I took a Hayward Super Pump (1HP) and attached a fitting to each opening that would allow me to slip the vacuum hose over the suction side and a 25' backwash hose (with hose clamp) over the return side. When I first started using this, I had some suction but never anything special. Now I can't get a prime at all (I've used it 4 times total.) I fill the reservoir with water and I make sure that the vacuum hose is full of water as well. Yesterday, I picked the vacuum head up off of the pool floor and held it just under the surface thinking that water may be siphoning back to the pool. No luck. The pump shuts itself off after about 5 minutes. I used a 12 AWG wire to plug the pump into an extension cord. The pump is rated for 115V and 230V. I have the switch set to 115. Could the extension cord be too long? I'm at a loss here. Pool companies seem to be too busy to come to my house for a portable vacuum. Thanks