TomTom

I had my inground pool re-plastered 3 years ago and it is structuraly sound. I just had my concrete recoated and color sealed and the people have dropped material onto the white plastered bottom. The bottom is in excellent shape other than it looks bad since I can't get the color out. I don't know if I should have them paint the bottom or have it re-plastered. It will cost me 3,000+ to have it redone just to get it white again. If I stain the plaster white what type stain/paint is the best to use that will give me the best job and last longer. I see where Behr (HD) concrete stain which I used on the deck has one that is acrylic or epoxy. Does anyone have any experience with this that can give me some advice. I have had my pool for 40 years and have only had to re-plaster it 2 times. The first job lasted 37 years. Thanks

My winterize blow out Procedure for in-ground pool, deck jets, cleaner, and heater. All chemicals are installed as required. Please review this and let me know if I am doing it correctly. Any suggestions etc. would be appreciated and gratefully received. 1. Install ultra-gizmo into skimmer (system has only 1 skimmer with 2 return lines and 1 cleaner line.) 2. Drain sand filter - then reinstall both dome lid and drain plug. 3. Plug up return jet outlets and cleaner outlet, leaving the one farthest away open. 4. Keep the 5-way valve set in filter position. 5. Open ball valve on the cleaner line. 6. Set valve in suction and return line to FULL SKIM. This will allow air to blow out the skimmer and all reurn lines including the cleaner line. If desired you can also blow out main drain line BUT that is not necessary because the water will always follow the water level point in the pool. 7. Hook compressor to the top of gizmo in the skimmer and when ai8r comes out the farthest return jet, cap it off and open up another return jet and then the cleaner jet and cap off the same as previous mentioned when air bubbles happen. 8. Now Open up the heater drain plug and blow out completely. Close drain plug when no water comes out. 9. Open up the valve in the deck jet plumbing line. Open the far away deck jet and leave the nearest one open. Blow water out of this jet then cap it off and open up the nearest one and follow same procedure when no water is present. 10. Stop blowing and drain pump, re-drain filter, auto chlorinator, re-drain heater to make sure any water that that might there is gone. Do not re-install any plugs but store them in the pump basket so they will not get lost. 11. Loosen all union lines for draining just in case. 12. Set the 5-way filter valve on the sand filter to any in-between position. 13. Leave main and skimmer valve in 1/2 skim and 1/2 drain position. This will allow any water in the main line to seek the same level as the pool water. 14. Make sure the ball valves in all lines are in the open position. 14. Install the Loop-Loc cover is installed with the 1800 Pool Pump on the cover and it plugged into the GFI outlet which is located in the pavilion.

I have just switched from a single speed Hayward 1 HP pump to a new Hayward 2600VS which is a 1 1/2 HP true rated pump. It comes set with a default configuration of 3,000 RPM Prime 3 minutes then 3,000 RPM for 12 hours. It defaults to 1500 RPM after that for 12 hours. My pool is a 18 x 36 in-ground with inverted corners (Grecian style). It is 3 feet deep for approx. 8 feet then slopes downward and the deep end is 9 1/2 feet. I figured that it contains approx. 21,870 gallons of water. I installed a flow meter (Blue & White) and while the pump is running at 3,000 rpm the flow meter reads 37 GPM which would be 2,220 GPH and a total turnover in 12 hours of 26,640. The filter PSI is 15 psi which is what it was with my old pump while running 3500 RPM. The power usage at this speed was 1,160 watts. The pump ran fine all night and at approx. 6 AM this morning it switched to speed V1 which is running at 1500 RPM. The stats at this speed is: Flow meter is 15 GPM which relates to 900 GPH or 10,800 turn over rate in 12 hours. The thing that bothers me is the PSI in my filter is only 4 PSI. The water is circulating in my pool but of course no where near the force since it is running slower speed. At these default settings, I will be turning over approx. 37,440 gallons of pool water which is almost twice what I think a near perfect turn over should be (21,870 gallons in 12 hours). Would someone please look at my post and give me some pointers. I have had my pool for approx. 40 years and always operated with a single speed Hayward Super Pump so this variable speed one leaves me with a few questions. My water is clear and in perfect balance. Thanks Tom

I have a Polynesian Fiberglass wall pool with a concrete bottom that is over 35 years old and in perfect condition except: The waterline tiles are made in the fiberglass wall which look exactly like real tiles. The problem is that I bring the water line up 1/2 way up the tiles and this has caused the bottom 1/2 of the tiles to be bleached out and in most places they are almost as white as the walls instead of blue like they should be. Question: Does anyone know if it is possible to have real tile set over these? TomTom

If this is a brand new Hayward SP2600VS pump, I would be calling tech support at 1 908 355-7665 as it is under warranty.

My heater PVC is Schedule 80 where you make the connection. I would suggest that you Schedule 80 which can be connected to Schedule 40 after approx. 3 foot span. Schedule 80 will stand higher heat temperatures and the heat coming right out of the heater is HOT.

It appears to me that they have used a cement based joint caulk. This sets up hard just like the joints between your flooring tiles in your home. In a pool I would not use that as there is too much moisture around it. I would also recommend that you use a plyable type calk. Get one with silicone which will last longer.

The advice about the filter laterals is spot on.

Thanks for your suggestion. I had already replaced this seal and also the seal between the motor and the housing. Neither one helped. I looked further and found that water was coming out from under the pump housing. I pulled pump back off and checked to find out that the impeller seal which has the spring on it was busted. Replaced it (I also replaced the ceramic shaft seal even though it was OK). This solved the problem. I have also replaced the 1 HP super pump with a Hayward SP2600VS (Variable Speed) pump. The rating of this pump is 1 1/2 true HP rating. Does a fantastic job.

For whatever it is worth to you, I would rather have the same type equipment for everything. You would not put a Pontiac motor in a Ford.

I just opened up my pool after winterizing. The Hayward 1 HP Super Pump will not prime. I filled the basket with water and it starts priming but quits drawing water completely. I have only got it to completely prime one time. I shut it down and then it has not primed since. All the plugs in the pump are properly installed. I have checked the impeller by sticking my hand into the basket and there is nothing that seems to be stopping up the impeller. I have checked the gasket around the lid of the basket and cleaned it and relubed it with magic lube. Today I got a rubber seal that goes where the pump attaches to the housing but I have not installed it yet. The bolts were tight. I have 1 1/2 inch lines. 1 suction line from skimmer. 1 suction line from main drain. I have valve set to pull from the skimmer only. During the time I got it to prime, the pressure gague was not showing any pressure at all. The pressure gague was a new one. Could someone please shed some light on what might be my problem as it was working fine before I shut it down for the winter.

Scotts correct. You have to winterize all pool pipes which includes the ones to your slide and any deck jets or anyting else you may have. Blow out the water and cap it up. Tom

You definitely have a very bad leak in your plumbing going from your booster pump to the hook up point for your Polaras. The reason your are loosing so much water is the booster pump causes a lot of pressure for the cleaning and it is litterally squirting your water out. I agree with Scott the line from your booster pump to your pool is either busted or come loose. All you can do it dig it up or have someone do it for you. Hope you don't have much concrete decking over the line. It is most likely close to the pool itself. Tom

If he is that dumb, I would not let him touch anything for me. You can buy digital timers that control 3 different items such as pump, cleaner, lights. They are around 180.00 and easy to install. I know did it myself.

The color splash pure white LED bulb will fit your niche. Most pool supply on line companies have it. It is made by J&Jelectronice.com. I know because I have a SwimQuip niche and it is smaller and it will fit mine. It has the Edison screw in regular size end and will screw into your niche. Hope this helps. Tom