Leaky Sam Light, Ruined Color Wheel Motor, Considering Replacing The Whole Light

[bluesraker]

Hi

This is my first post, thanks in advance for you opinions and guidance.

Here goes:

I have 120 volt Pentair Sam light which was installed when the pool was dug 6 years ago. I've replaced the gasket seal and the color wheel motor twice because the light took on water. The last time I fixed the light, I checked the light weekly to see if water leaked in. All was well until, last week; we had a lot of rain. It added 2 inches of water to the level of the pool. In one week, the level of water inside the light went from 0 to 2 inches ruining the color wheel motor again. This has become an expensive proposition with only temporary solutions. I consider the placement of the motor on the bottom of the fixture bad design. It could easily have been designed with the motor placed at the top of the fixture where it would much less likely be submerged in the event water seeped in. I'm at the point of considering replacing the whole thing with a new light. I would like to know what brand of LED color in ground pool light is best designed, most durable and easy to install in the existing Pentair niche. I've read here that the Hayward Colorlogic 4.0 is generally highly regarded here. What would be the potential installation problems in an existing Pentair SAm light niche?

[PoolGuyNJ]

Because the niche is Pentair, to maintain the UL listing, the new fixture must also be a Pentair. This means an Intellibrite.

Additional question that need to be asked:

Is this connected to an automation system such as an Intellitouch or Easytouch? If so, they may need updating so they know what an Intellibrite is.

Is there more than one fixture in the pool? Intellibrites won't sync with anything but another Intellibrite.

Scott

[bluesraker]

It only has an on/off switch, it's the only light in the pool. There is no way to retrofit a Hayward Colorlogic light into the Pentair niche? I read in the forum that it was possibe. I can't really be happy putting in another Pentair. The new light has the same gasket seal as the old one. That didn't work out very well. Thanks for your reply.

BR

[PoolGuyNJ]

I always make sure the clamp holding the face plate, the lens with its gasket, and the actual fixture is tight before I set it in the water.

Other brands may fit the niche but you do so at your own risk. The UL listing will be voided and God forbid an accident happens, you can be sure the lawyers will find out.

I have never has an Intellibrite fail yet. I have had Colorlogics fail.

Scott

[bluesraker]

I've installed the seal making sure that the circular clamp is well seated in the hooks and securely tightened. I leave it in the sun for an hour or so, (I'm in Southern Nevada). The sun's heat would ensure that the seal is pliable and seamlessly interfaces with the glass and the light housing. But I don't think the leak comes from there. The housing's bottom is filled with epoxy. I suspect that the water is seeping through the power cable opening. I'll try encasing the opening and part of the cable with aquarium silicone on the outside of the housing. Being on the outside of the fixture, underwater, I doubt that heat will be an issue in degrading the silicone. This silicone works well under pressure. It's a cheap fix. If it works, great! If not, I'll be back at square one but I won't have spent a fortune trying to fix it yet. I'll monitor the light for leakage. If I don't see any leakage, I'll take a chance on buying another color wheel motor. If it leaks though, I'll have to bite bullet and spring for another light.