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Posted

Get an inexpensive two way test kit that has yellow drops for chloirne and red for pH. Test it with that. If that does not register then you really don't have chlorine. If it does then the strips are the problem. Report back which it is.

Also, a bit more info about your pool and what chemicals you have added as well as how the water looks and what kind of filter you have would help.

Your post is akin to posting in an auto forum : I put a quart of oil in the car and filled the gas tank and it is making an funny noise, what is wrong with it? We really need more info to be able to help you.

Posted

If the ingredients on the package say monopersulfate, you will never see chlorine.

High levels of chlorine can bleach out the color too.

Plain DPD tests as found on strips are good to 5 ppm. OTO is good to 10 ppm. Using a DPD-FAS powder based test is good to 50 ppm.

If you used a chlorine based powdered chlorine, such as cal-hypo or bleach, the DPD-FAS test is the proper test.

Scott

Posted

I OTO is good to 10 ppm

OTO is a bullitproof test that wiil always tell if you have chlorine or not and, by the color, the approximate rannge:

Colorless no chlorine

very pale yellow under about 2 ppm

yellow under about 5 ppm

deep yellow under about 15 ppm

orange in the neigborhood of 25-30 ppm

brown very high

It is not a precision test but as a rough guide of where the total chlorine is it can be useful. One of it's main drawbacks is that it cannot distinguish between free chlorine and combined chlorine.

Also, many strips use syringaldazine for testing free chlorine (which does not bleach out) and use an OTO/copper complex for testing combined chlorine or total bromine. Others uses DPD for both tests and do bleach out.

However, I agree that FAS-DPD testing such as found in the Taylor K-2006 and the LaMotte 7022 is the way to go

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