Confusion Over Chlorine Leves

[Gouie]

Hey guys, I'm experiencing a bit of confusion I hope you can help me with. I'm new to the hot tub game and thought I had things figured out. The regular maintenance routine recommended by my local dealer has been working well ... until I read the chemical bottles. So, I've been checking the chlorine levels daily and it's very stable. The problem is the drop tester I'm using. It is marked up to 3.0 ppm with the ideal level marked as 1.5 ppm. Reading the additive bottle says it should remain between 3.0 and 5.0. This is my first bit of confusion. Secondly I've shocked the tub for the first time. Of course the chlorine level is off the map. The bottle says to keep the cover off and do not enter until levels are back below 5.0. This will be tough when my tester only goes to 3.0. Any idea how long this stabilization usually takes?

[quantumchromodynamics]

Read Nitro's Approach to Water Maintenance and get the Taylor K-2006 test kit.

[Gouie]

thanks for posting.

I have read through the above process but think I'll stick with commercial spa products for now. My main concern is what should the chlorine level be? The chemical bottle and much of the reading that I've done references 3-5 ppm. The tester I am using has a gauge that maxes out at 3 ppm with the ideal level being 1.5 ppm.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

thanks for posting.

I have read through the above process but think I'll stick with commercial spa products for now. My main concern is what should the chlorine level be? The chemical bottle and much of the reading that I've done references 3-5 ppm. The tester I am using has a gauge that maxes out at 3 ppm with the ideal level being 1.5 ppm.

Most people like to keep it at the lower level, just remember, when you are using the spa, the level drops quickly. Also if there are several using the spa, oe guests, i would not keep it low. Keeping it at 3-5 is also fine if it is not bothering you in anyway. Biggest thing is not to let the spa drop to zero, you will start bacteria/germs growing almost as soon as it drops to zero. After a bit of you using it, you will figure out how much chlorine you need to add when you get out to have a good reading for your next use.

[waterbear]

I have read through the above process but think I'll stick with commercial spa products for now. My main concern is what should the chlorine level be? The chemical bottle and much of the reading that I've done references 3-5 ppm. T

It depends on whether you are using a stabilized chlorine source (dichlor) or an unstabilized one (cal hypo, lithium hypo. or liquid chlorine--same thing as bleach) AND the level of CYA in your water. BTW, both types of chlorine ARE sold for spa use.

The tester I am using has a gauge that maxes out at 3 ppm with the ideal level being 1.5 ppm.

You also need a test kit that can test higher free chlorine levels. Best is a kit that uses the FAS-DPD method, which is not a color comparison test but a drop counting test that can test chlorine up to 50 ppm (useful when shocking) with a precision as great at .2 ppm across the board. A very cost effect kit is the Tayloy K-2006 (not the K-2005) that also tests pH with acid and base demand, Total Alkalinity Calcium Hardness and CYA.

BTW, the "ideal" markings on your testkit are based on very old info and are no longer used. You need a better test kit, period.

[simonc]

Hey guys, I'm experiencing a bit of confusion I hope you can help me with. I'm new to the hot tub game and

Gouie -

Since you're new to maintaining your tub, I thought you might find the following information useful ...

1. I agree with the others who have suggested that you get a better test kit. Without a good test kit, you are operating "in the dark" without the necessary information to maintain you tub. The test kit is the CHEAPEST part of tub ownership. Consider the cost of purchasing your tub, installation (usually involves electrical and/or decking), utilities to keep the water warm, chemicals, water for refills, etc.. By comparison a good test kit is cheap.

2. The #1 goal of tub maintenance is to keep your water SAFE! You have to have the right level of sanitizer in your tub to accomplish this. How do you determine if you have a the proper level of sanitizer??? That's right - with a good test kit.

3. The #2 goal (for many people) of tub maintenance is to make sure the water & chemicals don't damage your tub. You have to have the right pH, calcium level, etc. Again, you can't do this unless you have a good test.

4. Take advice from you dealer this a grain of salt. There are many good dealers that are very knowledgeable, but there are also many dealers whose primary objective is to sell you as many chemicals and gadgets as possible. This forum is a good place to get feedback on dealer advice.

5. Your tub is NOT a small swimming pool. Because of the high temperatures, things can go bad very fast in a tub. Chemical levels can change overnight because of bacteria/algae growth in the tubs very warm water. After you've made the initial adjustment of chemicals, it's important to stay on top of your sanitizer level and your pH level.

6. If you have too much chlorine sanitizer in your tub (as determined by a good test kit), you can bring it down by adding a few ounces of hydrogen peroxide ... the stuff they sell at most drug and grocery stores.

Good luck,

- Simon

[Gouie]

I appreciate the suggestions everyone. As far as I can tell everything is very stable. My wife and I use the tub 4 or 5 times a week for about 30 minutes each use. Aside from my weekly regiment, adding additional chemical is a rare occurance. I use the chlorine pucks in a floater and the level seems to remain quite consistant in and around that 2.0 ppm range. My PH does dip occasionaly but I'm able to bring it back into range with little effort.

I will pick up the test kit mentioned. Anything to get away from the silly color comparision. Any ideas on where to purchase? In Canada?

[waterbear]

I appreciate the suggestions everyone. As far as I can tell everything is very stable. My wife and I use the tub 4 or 5 times a week for about 30 minutes each use. Aside from my weekly regiment, adding additional chemical is a rare occurance. I use the chlorine pucks in a floater and the level seems to remain quite consistant in and around that 2.0 ppm range.

When you say chlorine puck do you mean trichlor? (read the label) The only type of chlorine found in pucks that can be used in a floater is trichlor. That is not normally used in hot tubs because it is extremely acidic and, in the small volume of water and the constant aeration from the jets can cause TA to drop fast which will then cause pH to 'crash', which can lead to damage of your tub.

The only type of tabs used in a floater in hot tubs is normally bromine. IF you are using bromine it needs to be higher than 2 ppm, and even chlorine shlould be kept higher.

My PH does dip occasionaly but I'm able to bring it back into range with little effort.

And what happens to your Total Alkalinity when you do? If you are not testing TA you need to be!

I will pick up the test kit mentioned. Anything to get away from the silly color comparision.

The only test that needs a color comparator is pH,

All other tests are drop counting tests with a distinct color change at the endpoint and are very easy to do if you get a test kit that uses the FAS-DPD chlorine test and not an OTO (yellow comparator, only measures total chloirne) or DPD (measures both free chlorine and total chlorine).

The kits you want are either the Taylor K-2006 (if you are using chlorine), K-2106 (if you are using bromine) or the LaMotte 7022. The Taylor kits are much more expensive in Canada than in the US, unfortunately so you might want to look into getting this particular LaMotte kit. Do not get a Taylor K-2005 or a different LaMotte kit, including their ColorQ series. You want a kit that uses FAS-DPD chorine testing.

Any ideas on where to purchase? In Canada?

The Taylor kits can be purchased here in Canada. They are very reliable and knowledgeable. There are other dealers but I only know of these people and have had dealings with them on a professional basis (even though I live in Florida).

The only place I know of that carries the LaMotte kit and reagents is here. I have never dealt with them but they do ship LaMotte to Canada.

Hope this is helpful.