readytoblowupthepool Posted June 27, 2009 Report Posted June 27, 2009 We opened our pool on Memorial Day, or at least started the process. I was forced to drop the winter cover back in December because the walls were starting to buckle. This of course led to leaves, dirt and algea. We pumped out all but about 2 feet of water, removed the leaves and refilled. I have spent almost $500 on chemicals, everything from Chlorine, Shock, Algecide, Clarifier, Flock, Clear Shock, Muratic Acid, Stabilizer and a few that I probably forgot about. I think it has been every shade of green, brown and blue known to man. In this time the water has never been clear. I have taken the Chlorine to a level 10 and held it there for as long as 4 days with no real improvement. A week ago I started putting in Clear Shock (Posassium Monopersulfate) this initially looked like it was going to work. But, it didn't completely clear up the pool. I have put a total of 4.4 lbs of this in now. The last application 1/3 of the bottle was yesterday afternoon and the pool looks no better. It is now a light blue color and if you look hard enough you can see to the bottom of the pool. I am hesitant to add more clarifier becuase the water has an almost slippery feel to it as it is. I am confident that I have killed off all the algea but, is there a way to make sure? Besides that I have never seen blue algea. Initially I couldn't get any kind of chlorine reading, I have put in 6 bottles of granules, 10 gallons of bleach, about 14 lbs of chlorine based shock and this is in addition to running the chlorinator on 10 24hours a day and keeping a puck in the skimmer basket. This probably makes no sense so to recap: Round 24 ft, 52 in wall, hayward cartridge filter, every chlorine source known to man (I am now only using bleach) Where do I find "Pool School" I keep seeing it mentioned but, can't find it anywhere How do I determine if I have algae? What could be eating my chlorine and where is it going? Why is my pool blue (light cloudy shade of blue) that barely allows you to see bottom? What else can I add? FC 3 TC 3 ALK 80 PH 7.6 CYA 40 Quote
chem geek Posted June 28, 2009 Report Posted June 28, 2009 Click on the following link (notice the words "Pool School" are underlined -- that's a link): Pool School and read the article their on Defeating Algae. If for some reason the link does not work, copy and paste the following into your web browser window: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/ Quote
mdmddouglas Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 We had almost the same situation with our water. I can tell you DO NOT drain the pool. My neighbor says they drain their pool every year because they don't want to spend so much money on chemicals to clear the pool. In hindsight, the chemicals would have been cheaper that the new liner we had to buy. Quote
readytoblowupthepool Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Posted June 29, 2009 My pool is clear The last two nights I have used the clear shock and brought the chlorine up to shock level. Yesterday morning there was clearly improvement and today, it is beautiful!!! It's time to start organizing a pool party! Quote
chem geek Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 CONGRATULATIONS! By "clear shock", do you mean using chlorinating liquid or bleach to bring up the Free Chlorine (FC) level to shock level (about and FC that is 40% of the Cyanuric Acid level)? Quote
readytoblowupthepool Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Posted June 30, 2009 Clear shock is Potassium Monosulphate, I did this in addition to a chlorine shock at the same time. The clear shock is suppose to destroy organic material. The best part is we had rain yesterday and I just knew even though all my levels are and I have algecide in the pool it would be green today, but it's not. Quote
chem geek Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 Chlorine alone will also clear organics. If you don't believe it, look at this post that shows heavy algae upon spring opening being cleared by chlorine alone. The MPS didn't hurt (except your pocketbook), but wasn't necessary. Also, the MPS will falsely measure as Combined Chlorine (CC) so this can get confusing, but this will only last for a relatively short time (days at the most). Quote
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