12 replies to this topic

[T-CELL-15]

Hi,

I have an in ground pool with an Aqua Rite chlorine generator. The cell stopped generating chlorine.

I have replaced so far GLX-PCB-RITE controller board but it did not help. I have troubleshooted by exchanging parts with my neighbor. So far I have troubleshooted flow switch and Turbo Cell 15 and they did not fix my problem and I have no chlorine being generated led on.

What I need to do next?

Here are my display readings:

Salt level: 1900 (Pool store measured our water and said the salt level is 3200 ppm)
Pool temp: 85
Cell voltage: 31.7 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)
Cell current: 0
Desired output: 100p
Instant salinity: -0
Product name: AL-0
Software revision: r1.50

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

LED's which are ON:
Power
Aqualink RS
Low salt
Inspect cell

Inside control panel show CHECK Aqua Rite (we have AquaLinkRS4 control panel).

Cell have been cleaned according instructions in muriatic acid and water mixture.

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

Thanks in advance!

[Pool Clown]

Try your neighbors top PC Board, then rectifier (you might just want to buy that kit), then transformer. And not that you should replace in that order. Thats just all the parts left in the darn thing. .

[T-CELL-15]

Try your neighbors top PC Board, then rectifier (you might just want to buy that kit), then transformer. And not that you should replace in that order. Thats just all the parts left in the darn thing. .

Hi,

Thanks Pool Clown for quick reply!

It's getting dark here in TX so I continue trouble shooting tomorrow and let you know. Do you know voltage readings which I should get out from transformer (measuring directly from transformer) when starting to run pool, when generating and when not generating?

And where salt censor is located in this system? Is it in the Turbo Cell or somewhere else?

[T-CELL-15]

Try your neighbors top PC Board, then rectifier (you might just want to buy that kit), then transformer. And not that you should replace in that order. Thats just all the parts left in the darn thing. .

Hi,

Thanks Pool Clown for quick reply!

It's getting dark here in TX so I continue trouble shooting tomorrow and let you know. Do you know voltage readings which I should get out from transformer (measuring directly from transformer) when starting to run pool, when generating and when not generating?

And where salt censor is located in this system? Is it in the Turbo Cell or somewhere else?

[T-CELL-15]

OK, I swapped our display units and it did not work on our side so we have still same readings. And our neighbor have same readings with our display what they have their own.

So we have one more component to check and it's transformer. Do you see transformer often as defective component?

And does anyone have readings for transformer and from which pins to measure?

Thanks in advance!

[T-CELL-15]

The last component on the system, transformer, is measured and resistances (Ohm) is in the primary and secondary side are on the spec. According this in theory our system should be fully functional.

One more thing what I can imagine is system grounding.

I was able to get higher salt reading from Aqua Rite system by resetting it several times. Then I run system 24 h Aqua Rite on off mode. After that I adjusted Aqua Rite to 60%. After couple of hours salt level started to drop from 3900 PPM to 2600 PPM (actual salt level was tested in couple of local pool stores 3200 - 3700 PPM.

I reset system (Salt level) several times to get higher salt level and make chlorinator to work. I have been able to get Salt Level up to 4000-4200. Within 1-2 hours salt level is dropping 1000-1100 lower. After 5-6 hours from resetting the Aqua Rite salt is still dropping lower showing 2400-2500 and again in Aqua Rite controller is reading "check aquarite". I don't know how low the system will go since I have been resetting it again and again.

And again advices are welcome! Thanks in advance!!!

[Dusan]

System stop automatically generating chlorine because, salt reading drop below 2300 ppm.
Most of people with 3 years old cell have same problem. cell is still OK and can generate, but
salt level sensor is off and giving faulty reading, that stop output to cell

[T-CELL-15]

I swapped my cell with my neighbor and my cell is working in neighbors system as their own. And when I installed neighbors cell to our system we have still same issue. Our cell have been tested several times and it works as it should.

Does anyone have wiring instructions for NEW Aqua Rite, Aqua Link and Aqua Link RS4. I like to see and make sure that my wiring is as it should be.

[Pool Clown]

I swapped my cell with my neighbor and my cell is working in neighbors system as their own. And when I installed neighbors cell to our system we have still same issue. Our cell have been tested several times and it works as it should.

Does anyone have wiring instructions for NEW Aqua Rite, Aqua Link and Aqua Link RS4. I like to see and make sure that my wiring is as it should be.

Try disconnecting the four wire com cable for the RS4 from the Aqua Rite and start again. I have more problems with those remote controls. Missed that you had your unit hooked up to a RS before.

[Gfam]

Hi,

I have an in ground pool with an Aqua Rite chlorine generator. The cell stopped generating chlorine.

I have replaced so far GLX-PCB-RITE controller board but it did not help. I have troubleshooted by exchanging parts with my neighbor. So far I have troubleshooted flow switch and Turbo Cell 15 and they did not fix my problem and I have no chlorine being generated led on.

What I need to do next?

Here are my display readings:

Salt level: 1900 (Pool store measured our water and said the salt level is 3200 ppm)
Pool temp: 85
Cell voltage: 31.7 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)
Cell current: 0
Desired output: 100p
Instant salinity: -0
Product name: AL-0
Software revision: r1.50

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

LED's which are ON:
Power
Aqualink RS
Low salt
Inspect cell

Inside control panel show CHECK Aqua Rite (we have AquaLinkRS4 control panel).

Cell have been cleaned according instructions in muriatic acid and water mixture.

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

Thanks in advance!

Pretty new to this bc I'm trying to figure out my own problems with an Aqua Rite system but I think possibly your system might not be 'reading' the equipment correctly [Product Name you listed above=AL-0] - according to one of the guys with Tech support I should not have had "AL-4" because I do not have a RS so maybe you should have "4" instead of "0". I switched mine, but it did not fix my problem. Good luck.

[jbistra]

I also have a T 15 Cell but with an Aqualogic controler. Maybe someone can help? Running the Diagnostic Menu the chlorinator appears to stop running after 30 minutes. It fires up but again stops running. I ran the super Chlorinating it ran for a few hours. Also. not getting any message like low temp; low salt, no cell etc. Is the thing actually running but the Diagnostic Memu reads are not accurate. Its been under 50 so have been adding manual chlorine Acid cleaned the unit out and it had some broken chips inside - just a few. What would cause the T15 to stop running after a short period of time.

Its 3 years old now.

Thx

[pooltech9]

Your Jandy system controlling your AquaRite requires the Aqua Rite to be set up to read AL-5 in that portion or the diagnostics menu. If it is set on any other you may damage your Jandy board. Just switch up to Superchlorinate and back to Auto while on that screen and it will change. Also, the board revision 1.50 will offer you cell size selection in the diagnostics menu. It is factory default to a T-15 but can be changed to a T-3, T-5, or a T-9 by the same means as changing the remote menu. Check and make sure you haven't changed it by mistake.
The salt display number is an average over 4-6 hours. The instant salt reading in the diagnostics menu is displayed as a negative number and can be forced into the default screen by switching up to superchlorinate and back to auto, but if your cell is bad or your salt is off it will go back to the average reading.
There is no "salt sensor" in the cell. The salt reading is a calculated value involving the voltage, amperage, and temp. The "desired output" dial does not change the voltage output, it is always 100%. What it does change is the % of the 2 hour cycle that the cell is "on". The cell reverses polarity every 2 hours to release any calcium build up on the plates. The way to diagnose a bad cell is to compare the amperage in each polarity. Polarity is manually reversed by switching 'off" then to Auto. If the amps in each polarity are different by more than .75 amps, the cell is shot.
The Ruthinium coating on the cell plates is what determines the life of the cell. "Over" acid washing can wear it off. Some other things to consider are Phosphates in the water.
The "bucket test" can help in some cases: Fill a bucket with pool water, remove your cell from the plumbing and put it in the bucket of water. Take an old telephone cord, cut the wire about 6" from the jack plug, strip and wire nut or tape the wires together, remove the flow switch from the bottom of the AquaRite box and plug your spliced phone jack into the Rite box. Your cell will then power up in the bucket and make chlorine. You should see it fizz.

[pooltech9]

Oh yeah, 1 more thing. When the water temp is below 60 F, the AquaRite will automatically drop to 20% of the desired output setting. At 50% it stops generating.