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Tiger River Spa Heating Problem


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#1 twall

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 11:51 AM

I have recently received a 1995-96 Tiger River Manora Spa. Everything works (circ pump, jet pump, lights) except it wont heat up. I've done some testing and it appears no power is getting to the heater (NF6000). I've also noticed that the top side control board has some corrosion on it right next to the temp control dial. I'm not sure if I should replace the control borad, or possibly have a bad relay? Both Thermistors for high limit and thermostat have been replaced.

any suggestions and I thank you in advance.

Update.... Just found out that before the spa stopped heating, it would sometimes overheat. Last time this happened, the person shut it down for a couple days then turned it back on. Now no heat what so ever.

#2 Dan.The.Spa.Man

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 01:46 PM

QUOTE(twall @ Jan 15 2008, 02:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have recently received a 1995-96 Tiger River Manora Spa. Everything works (circ pump, jet pump, lights) except it wont heat up. I've done some testing and it appears no power is getting to the heater (NF6000). I've also noticed that the top side control board has some corrosion on it right next to the temp control dial. I'm not sure if I should replace the control borad, or possibly have a bad relay? Both Thermistors for high limit and thermostat have been replaced.

any suggestions and I thank you in advance.

Update.... Just found out that before the spa stopped heating, it would sometimes overheat. Last time this happened, the person shut it down for a couple days then turned it back on. Now no heat what so ever.



If the thermistors have been replaced I would next look towards the thermostat board which is located underneath that topside control panel.
I have a few extra HotSpring heater relay boards for tubs from 2001-2008 if anyone is looking for one cheap. Part #77119

#3 poolyeti

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 01:52 PM

hi twall,

It could maybe be your heater element. I was working on a spa this summer and we replaced a ton of stuff, but it ended up being an obscure part of the pump. That spa works fine now. It didn't have the overheating problem though. You may be onto something with the bad relay idea. I'd take the board and the wiring diagram to a spa repair pro and have them test that relay.

#4 twall

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 08:06 AM

Thaks Dan.

Just so happens that the board that has the corrosion on it is the thermostat control board. I will try replacing it and see what happens.

Thanks again.

#5 Dan.The.Spa.Man

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 10:30 AM

QUOTE(twall @ Jan 16 2008, 11:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thaks Dan.

Just so happens that the board that has the corrosion on it is the thermostat control board. I will try replacing it and see what happens.

Thanks again.


Sounds like the culprit...good luck!

I have a few extra HotSpring heater relay boards for tubs from 2001-2008 if anyone is looking for one cheap. Part #77119

#6 twall

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 07:28 AM

replaced the thermostat control board and still no heat. unsure if its even sending power to the heater. The spa has a NF6000 heater which doesn't appear to have a heating element? I'd hate to replace the heater not knowing if thats the problem.

#7 Chas

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 08:54 AM

First, realize that this spa will heat at about 2 degrees per hour if it is running on 110 volts, and 8 degrees per hour if it is running on 220volts. Most of the time I get these types of call the customer simply has not allowed enough time for the unit to come to temp. "I let it run for close to two whole hours..." might take a day or two if it is 110 and the weather is freezing.

If it is running on 220 volts, then there is a sub panel somewhere - be sure both breakers are on. The 30 amp breaker runs only the heat. Push the 'test' buttons on both breakers - if they do not trip, but the spa continues to run, reset the main breaker at the main panel. It may be tripped on one side - the spa will run but not heat.

If that is not the issue here, then Meter the heater. Turn off power to the spa/unplug it.

Open the control box.
Unplug the leads to the heater. Put an Ohm meter accross the leads to the heater - Leave the green wire (ground) connected, but pull the two leads. Put the meter on those two: it should show around 10-15 ohms. If it is Infinite ohms, (open circuit) then you may have a High-Limit switch open. Push the reset button in the middle of box on top of the NoFault heater. It takes a very firm push to reset the thing.

If that doesn't bring you back to the correct Ohm range, then you have a bad heater. The NF heater has four heating elements, and if the Ohm reading is much higher, you may only have one or two left functioning. That can still work, but even slower.

If the heater meters ok- then switch your meter to read AC power. Carefully apply power to the spa, and be sure the jets are off. Turn the heat to your desired setting, and give it a few minutes to boot up.

Put the leads carefully on the connections from which you unplugged the heater leads. Should be 110 volts or 220 volts depending upon which voltage your unit is connected to.

If there is no power there, check the incoming power: test the incoming power at terminals 1 and 3 on the power block. If that is zero, it is a wiring issue.
If it shows power coming in to the spa but you had no power going out to the heater, , you have a bad heater relay board - or on an older tub, just a bad heater relay(s).

HTH

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#8 Terry.2

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Posted 02 February 2008 - 06:12 AM

QUOTE(twall @ Jan 29 2008, 09:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
replaced the thermostat control board and still no heat. unsure if its even sending power to the heater. The spa has a NF6000 heater which doesn't appear to have a heating element? I'd hate to replace the heater not knowing if thats the problem.

twall, I am in the same boat except now nothing on mine works. However, I did find out there is a flow rugulatoron top of the heater element housing and a certain amount of flow has to cross it to close the circuit to allow the heater to heat. Its a safety procaution so the element won't over heat.the problem i think i am now having is either in the thermistat controll board on the upper sides. the heater on my unit is a watkins nf1500 my unit is a 110v unit. I have been unable to find this panel anywhere. I even had a spa repairman out and he was even more lost than I was he said he had never worked on one of thes units. Any info will be appreciated

#9 dustin

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Posted 17 April 2008 - 03:42 PM

I have a simular problem, I will turn the T stat....relay will click and recirc pump flows. I can measure only 1/2 of the contactor getting power....It will run for about 15 secs then turn off. If I turn dial down then back up it will start over. If I turn on the main pumps the sencond side of the contactor for the heat will get power...Everything will stay running entill I turn off the main pump....Once I turn off the main pump, the heater stopps heating and the pump wont fire up again...I have to turn the heater dial down and then up to start the process all over.. Any Ideas would be great.

#10 fuji0010

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 01:46 AM

A problem that actually occurs with a hot tub heater is usually best dealt with by a spa heater specialist. Diagnosing what the problem really is can be quite a process, and, unless you have some experience, it is probably not a good idea to go pulling out parts. Remember, you're dealing with a piece of machinery that uses large quantities of both electricity and water. When these two elements get together in the wrong way, the results can be extremely hazardous.

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