Daniel Erlandson

Don't mind all the chemical minutia. I'll learn something in the end...the tsp is Red Devil brand TSP/90 substitute...no phosphates. Label says sodium metasilicate. Wrong stuff to use I'm guessing.

thanks for the responses, I am using well water and a simple 4 parameter Aquachek test strip: pH, FC, TA and Stabilizer. TA on fill was in the ok zone ( I believe) which is 80-120 pH was also ok. Did Dichlor for a few days until the Stabilizer went up and then switched over the Bleach. I have shocked twice with MPS. On the day in question I soaked the filters in TSP for a few hours, rinsed them (probably not well enough) and on reinstallation noticed a lot of foaming. My FC was low at that time so I decided to add some dichlor thinking it might help clear up the water. After some time I also added some MPS thinking that maybe the foaming was due to dislodged organics that I hadn't rinsed off. I think that was when I tested the water and found it low in pH and TA (super high with FC). Have managed to get the TA and pH back up with TA rise (sodium carbonate?). Next time I clean the filters (just have one set for the moment) I'll try simonc's method and see what happens. Have got to come up with a good rinsing/soaking set-up for the inside, for when the weather gets colder and I turn off the outside hose bibs. dan

Cleaned my filters the other day with TSP and thought I had rinsed them well enough afterward, but when I put the filters back into the spa I got quite a bit of foaming at first and then the TA and dropped quite a bit. This was about a week ago and have been adding TA riser since then to get the TA back up. What happened here? I had read about using TSP to clean filters but never any associated effects. Guess I didn't rinse them well enough?? dan

rigght...thanks for the info. The over 300 bit is why I was hoping to just replace the LCD! So then my next question is: If I can just barely see the display, am I really missing anything? dan

bump

ok...so I am curious about this. I was thinking of running some low voltage outdoor lights near my spa and don't have an outlet nearby, but was thinking I could run an outlet off of the 50 amp 240 v GFCI panel mounted outside by the spa. I can do this by tapping into just the black,white and ground wires, no?

hey... just completed the exact same thing on a D1 today. It has been a long haul in fixing the leak. I used the "big gap" expandable foam from Home Depot...I think it is Great Stuff. Seemed to work well...a total of 10 cans! Just go slow with it and let it cure for the 1 hour before you pump the next can on top of the expanded foam. The foam does generate some heat and expands in all directions so be careful as you pump it in around any piping. Make sure it doesn't push any of the piping out of place. I did find it helpful to use some boards to support the foam in places...my tub is on its side and I used the boards to keep the foam from sagging too much dan

Guess I'm thinking ahead here, down the line when I'll need to replace the ultra-pure cartridge I have in a D1 Cali spa. They are pricey and I just did it b/c we are getting this spa up and running for the first time. I have seen however a different ozone generator that seems to be more standard on pools and yet is also offered for tubs and was wondering if anyone has tried using it on an older tub (mine is a 2000) that was not designed exactly for this system. Here is a link to the "newer" system that I am talking about http://www.midamerica-parts.com/pure-ozonator.html I have found a web site that shows me the plug and it is a standard 4 receptacle type of ozone plug for this system, so it will "fit". I guess my question is has anybody tried this and are there issues with the amount of ozone it produces...too much, too little... Have to admit that parts and service for D1 here in NJ is basically non-existent. Very tough to even find an internet source of D1 stuff that is not on the west coast, although I did finally find http://www.spaandpooldepot.com/index.php?main_page=index who are in Wisconsin I believe. Thanks dan

Thanks for the reply...guess I was hoping to NOT spend $300 on a new controller. My info is Dimension One 030-CALU-232-GM-71583-1 California Ultralife Top control: Gecko 0201-000002 Serial: 000250390 Model TSC-24 Option AD-NO WG13407-7 Dan

the LCD screen on my california D1 spa is sort of shot. I can barely read the display as it scrolls. Is this a problem?? This is a used spa that we are just getting up and running after fixing a leak (hopefully that holds!). I have a replacement topside control from another D1 spa that does NOT fir my spa...bad ebay purchase, oh well. Any chance I can switch out LCD screens? Anybody ever try to cannibalize these things? dan

I am in the midst of working on a leak myself. Tried red food coloring in the water but it didn't really make that much of an impact in seeing the leak. I suppose it depends on the type of leak as well. Mine ended up being a crack in a manifold. Give the food coloring a try...didn't cause any staining in my tub. dan

If you can cut all the smaller tubing the same lenght and just add to the 2" tubing to move the whole manifold closer to the smaller tubing. right, makes sense, although the 5 pieces of smaller tubing go in slightly different directions and it might be tough to get them all to bend into the manifold piece if I move it closer. My preference would be to lengthen those smaller pieces. Also looks like someone has done some work in this area before...wonder if this current leak is the result of someone not quite cementing it all up well enough. Home Depot as a source of that smaller tubing? dan

Thanks...Can I get that flex pipe at a Home Depot or other store? I have seen some flex stuff there that looks similar, but wasn't sure if it had the right specs. dan

right...thanks. I will move more foam out of the way...agreed, NO FUN... I think I have narrowed it down to somewhere in the recesses of that 5 port manifold. I'd love to find a source for that locally instead of having it shipped from CA to NJ! anyway, I guess my question is still... do I use a regular old coupler to attach the flexible corrugated pipe I have onto more flex corrugated pipe and back into the manifold? dan

Looking for some advice on a leak on a 2000 D1 California. Have traced it down to a sort of PVC junction area near the back right corner. There is a big PVC pipe (2 inch?) that leads to a PVC junction that has 5 small outlets (3/4 inch?) with small corrugated pipe that leads out of each of these outlets. Pictures are not so clear, but might give you a sense Uploaded with ImageShack.us and . I can't quite see the leak/crack but know it is amongst this monstrosity. What is the best way to tackle this? Cut out the whole beast and redo it? Will I still find this part from D1? yes I can...http://easyspaparts.com/filterscreen1.asp?id=608&currentpage=4&cid=20 If I do cut it out how do I splice together the small corrugated pipe....just PVC couplers? I know the type of cement (weld-on) I should be using (don;t have it yet, but have seen posts about it), I know there is the PVC repair stuff...do i try that? Help!! I'm inclined to cut the whole thing out...just have to figure out how to get everything back together...looking for some advice... Thanks, dan