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  1. Contact one of the larger pool service company's in your area. They have a relatively new breed of pressure testing equipment attached to a video monitor. Not only can they tell you that there is a leak, but they can actually show you exactly which line is leaking and the exact location of the leak. If the first spot you noticed is in a direct line from the pool to the pump, usually a return line, that's probably the problem. However, the days of guessing are over thanks to this new equipment.
  2. Your fiberglass pool can be safely emptied and the repair is quite easy. Although you may live in Kansas, I can assure you that a water problem does exist on your property. Otherwise, you would have had no water to remove using the "stand pipe". So far, you have received reasonably good information in this forum. Now we will go to the next level. You appear to have a serious water problem which must be dealt with. The cracks in the gel coat occur when the fiberglass is pushed inward by water propelled mud. The fiberglass stretches causing a hump and inevitably, a crack in the fiberglass and gel coat. This crack relieves the hydrostatic pressure by permitting the water and sand (or pea gravel) to enter the pool. This only happens when the water level, for whatever reason, is lowered too far. It may have been lowered due to a lack of knowledge, a climatic occurence, or the failure of some system, i.e. pool plumbing, water mains, sprinkler systems, and any other source of water. The erosion of the concrete deck sub-strate is an indication of excessive water flow under the deck affecting both the deck and the pool (on the same side). Before going furtheer with the effect, you should first determine the cause. If you do not, it will surely happen again. By the way, if your fiberglass pool has a bottom drain in the center of the pool at the deep end, which points down like a bath tub, you may have a relief valve. However, the relief valve is not "next" to the drain, but under the drain cover. When the pool is emptied, usa a shop vac to remove the water that pools over the drain, remove the two screws holding down the drain cover, and remove it. Again, use the shop vac to remove the water just below in the drain pot. Now look inside for (1) a lug nut that you will remove and then slide out the valve or, (2) determine if there are one or two pipes running thru the pot. If so, you have a hydrostatic relief valve in the pipe that does not point toward the pump. It cannot be seen, but it is just inside the pipe and need to be tapped (hard) with the handle of a screwdriver to free it from accumulated sand. That will release it and let underground water into the pool. Enough for one day. Good luck. -Bill
  3. No fiberglass pool under 15 years old should ever have stains. After that, the gel coat slowly becomes porous causing staining, blisters, and algae cling. This type staining usually has only two possible causes. Most common is a heater with iron headers and impellers. If you have a heater, contact a pool service professional and have the heater checked. If the headers and impellers are iron, have them changed out. The other possibility is the use of "well water" with a high iron content. If you do use well water, you should empty the pool and refill from a different source or, continue using sequestering agents. All fiberglass pools can be emptied safely with the help of a fiberglass pool resurfacing specialist. Information is available here. Enjoy your pool. -Bill
  4. Absolutely not! Only one of those pipes goes to the bottom drain (if you have one) and then to the pump. The second pipe, usually with a cap far more difficult to remove and which may or may not be functional, can be used by fiberglass pool owners to release the hydro-static pressure from beneath the pool. That is, if it's functional. Never empty your pool without the assistance of a pool professional that specializes in the type of pool involved, i.e. fiberglass, gunite, concrete, or vinyl liner, unless you live in an area that never has rain or snow, like the desert. -Bill Nash
  5. new to, after reading the 3 earlier responses, there is little to say other than to emphasize the importance of the liner thickness. All new pools have a 27/28 mil liner installed. Replacement liners are nearly always 20 mil. There are several reasons including a. one person can install a 20 mil liner; b. it will need to be replaced much sooner. c. not all manufactureres still make thicker liners, etc. But, make no mistake, notwithstanding the excuses made by the liner salesman, the heaverier the liner, the greater the longevity. Warrenties: all the previous responses are correct but don't be misled by pro-rated warranties. They are truly more worthless than the paper they're written on. In the pool industry, never buy anything based of the so-called WARRANTY. It may look good, and sound good, but it is no good. The only warranty a pool owner has is the "implied warranty" for one year. This warranty will be upheld by a local District Court, if it is within one year from the date of purchase. Finally, a 27 or 28 mil lineer will last from 10 to 15 years, if it was professionally measured, and installed properly. Compare this to a 20 mil liner that must be replaced within 4 to 7 years. Enjoy your swimming pool.
  6. I believe you're on the right track. It sounds like the worn plaster (under the paint) has dissipated sufficiently enough to let the rebar attack the paint from beneath. When the pool was built, it was finished with plaster (marcite). When the plaster began failing, the pool was painted, and painted, and...well, I'm sure you know what I mean. I would assume the pool is more than 30 years old and, if so, this is more than likely the correct answer. If I am right, there is no chemical treatment known that can solve the problem. Resurfacing will be the only solution. Bill
  7. Just wondering if you're removing it for the right reason. If you hate hot tubs, or if you need the space for something else, then go for it. But if you are removing it because it's old and beat-up, and perhaps an eyesore, then hold on for a minute. Fiberglass is one of those wonderful products that can be easily and inexpensively rehabed. Unfortunately, practically no one knows how because it's a relatively new product and, since it lasts so long before help is required, the folks you would expect to know what to do, have not yet learned. But if you are willing to supply a few hours of labor, your hot tub can be returned to "like-new" condition. It's fast, and doesn't require any experience or special tools. Just remove the old finish coat (swimming pool gel coat), and roll-on two new coats Fibre-Shelkote swimming pool gel coat. Fibre-Shelkote gel coat is exactly the same as the manufacturors use, and comes in 40 different colors.
  8. Snide remarks are not the function of this forum, at least I do not believe they are. This makes 2 in this same short thread. Anthony/Sylvan sells and supervises the construction of an excellent gunite pool. My only complaint, based on my own experience in 1979 with Anthony Pools, combined with the experiences of numerous other buyers as stated in several forums, is the long delay from start to finish. With that said, based on my own personal experience in the pool resurfacing industry, I must recommend fiberglass pools. The only exception is the need (or desire) for a "wide swimming pool". Fiberglass pools of high quality are limited to 15'8" width, including the 4" lip around the pool. Backfill: 3/4" stone is not the answer. Sand is definitely preferable. French Drain: In the pool industry, a "french drain" refers to a pit dug below where the pool's bottom drain will sit after the pool is lowered into position. This is an essential part of the installation of every fiberglass pool, unless you reside in the desert. Never, never, permit any installer to omit this step. Further, insist that the pvc pipe from the french drain runs all the way to the pump and filter area. I hope you enjoy your pool. -Bill
  9. The choice between gunite and fiberglass is clear. Fiberglass pools require far less weekly maintenance, sixty to seventy percent less chemicals, and will last 50 years or more. Fiberglass pools will need new gelcoat after about 20 to 30 years, depending upon the manufacturer. Gunite pools are finished with plaster (marcite) which is porous and must be brushed down thoroughly twice a day for the first two weeks. Failure to do so will negate whatever warranty you think you have. The builder's excuse will be that there is "too much calcium" in the water. Of course, they do not tell you about the brushing when you purchase the pool. Nevertheless, the pool will look nice for about 10 years, if the chemicals are kept in balance. Then the problems will begin, starting with staining, algae, and the need for acid washing on an annual basis. Within fifteen to eighteen years, the pool will need re-plastering, then every four to five years thereafter. Other than Anthony&Sylvan, who are notorious for not completing the project until the summer is over, no matter when you bought, or when they promised, I am not aware of any other builder I can recommend in the Philadelphia Metro Area (where I reside). San Juan Pools, America's oldest and largest fiberglass pool manufacturer, is the only fiberglass swimming pool I can recommend, because they build the best pool, and they have the lowest number of installation problems. My recommendation is unbiased because I am not in the "new" pool business, and neither of these organizations know I exist. Moreover, I am in the swimming pool restoration business, so my opinions are based on nearly 20 years of resurfacing every type of swimming pool including, gunite, concrete, fiberglass, block, and wood. Good luck with your new pool. -Bill Nash
  10. Harvey- The only product that can be used for this purpose is a resin based pool putty. First the existing gelcoat must be removed (all the color) by sanding, the sanded area must be washed down with Acetone, the cover replaced using the putty, then two new coats of gelcoat applied to the putty. The pool must remain empty for three days (outdoors) or five days (indoors). Do not permit rain water to pool on top of the cover during this time. The swimming pool putty can be purchased at my fiberglass pool resurfacing web site. -Bill Nash
  11. Not all pools have a center bottom drain but if yours does, the tees are an excellent idea. But the "dig" is even more important. Assuming your new pool will have a center bottom drain, which all well manufactured full size pool have, you should dig a 4'x4'x4' pit directly under the bottom drain. Fill the pit with stone, and run a pvc pipe from the center of the pit (2'down and 2' in) under the pool and bring it up near the pump and filter. The further from the pool, the better. It should rise about a foot above the slab and be capped. This pvc will enable you to remove the ground water under the pool when the pool must be emptied. All fiberglass pools will need to be emptied at some point in time. It is always safer to remove the ground water first, instead of waiting until the pool is empty and removing the relief valve. Do not install a "hydrostatic" relief valve under any condition. It will open and close at first, but will quickly get stuck, especially if there is no "french drain" under the pool. Good luck with your new pool. -Bill Nash
  12. Viking is one of the better built pools, but their installation problems are legendary. The finest pool manufactured in the United States is, unequivocally, San Juan. As the owner of the largest international fiberglass pool restoration company in America, my opinion is based on 17 years experience in the restoration of old pools. Although I have never manufactured or installed a fiberglass pool, I can make a factual statement about which are constructed of the finest materials and last the longest before needing my services, and which are the most poorly constructed and will need my services within just a few years. San Juan pools are the only pools that will last 30 years before needing new gel coat. Viking, and possibly several others, will need new gel coat after 20 to 25 years. The only way to understand the quality of a fiberglass pool is to watch it age, then compare it to other pools of the same age. San Juan is the right choice. Enjoy your new pool. -Bill Nash
  13. The need to replace fiberglass steps in a vinyl liner pool is a rare occurence. Barring an earthquake, volcanic ereption, or some other natural disaster, fiberglass steps will last longer than any vinyl liner pool ever built. I would suggest you repair and/or refinish the steps instead. If's fast, relatively easy, and best of all, inexpensive. Hundreds of pool owners have already saved millions of dollars since 2001. Check this link for more information: -Bill Nash
  14. QUOTE(Rick B @ Jun 28 2008, 05:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi All. We are in the beginning stages of researching options for an in ground pool and have narrowed the choices down to fiberglass or a liner pool. We live in Hunterdon County NJ and have a very high water table, which is a result of a high clay and shale soil makeup. I have read warning s about fiberglass pools popping out of the ground from high water tables, but have also heard that liner pools can be destroyed in the same way if the walls collapse as a result of water pressure. Are either or both of these claims true? Or is one more likely than the other? I guess I am looking for advice from those that have installed either type of pool and what their experience has been. Thanks for any info!!! Rick Hello Ric, Having sold, managed installation, and restored damaged (or just old) pools of both type, I am probably qualified to answer your question. A fiberglass pool will never lift out of the ground unless the pool is emptied or the water level is dropped, intentionally or unintentionally, too low. However, just like there are "good" and "bad" builders of vinyl liner pools, there are also good and bad manufacturer's of fiberglass pools. Additionally, the same applies to the installers of the fiberglass pools, which are sometimes totally incompetent. That is the only true caveat for fiberglass pools. Vinyl liner pools should never be installed in an area with a high water table, let alone a "very high water table". In a cold climate, such as yours, the water must be lowered below the returns when the pool is winterized. This is extremely dangerous in the location you have described. An even worse condition exists when the liner is replaced, usually about 10-12 years for the first liner (after that it's every 4-7 years). A high water table can quickly bulge the walls, generally in the center of one of the long walls. If the bulge is more than 4", the pool is a total loss. Ground water is a major problem with every type swimming pool, but expecially with vinyl liner pools. Good luck with your new pool. -Bill Nash UGlassIt.com
  15. Are minor repairs included? Maybe some bottom repair and patch small cracks? Answer: All repairs (if any) are at additional cost. Whats the warranty and what exactly does in cover? Answer: All vinyl liner warranties are meaningless because they are pro-rated. 20mil liners have a 5 year pro-rated warranty but if the liner fails in that period, the price of the replacement liner will have increased proportionally. The same applies to the 10 year pro-rated warranty on a 28mil liner. It is just a sales gimmick that brings you back to the same installation company to buy your next liner. NOTE: Most if no all States enforce a one year implied warranty on every purchase. If you have a problem during the first year after installation, you must file before years end at your local small claims court. After that, you're on your own. Liner thickness? Answer: Nearly all new vinyl liner pools have a 28mil liner installed. It nearly always lasts between 10 and 15 years. Always insist on a 28mil liner, no matter what excuses or story's you are told. It will cost $700. to $800. more, but it will last more than twice as long. Install Time.? Liner manufacturers ship within 2 weeks, but installers might be backed-up at this time of year. Padding included? Foam padding is extra, but is only necessary with steel or wood walls (the wall is the first 3 1/2' feet down from the top, all the way around the pool. Get the est in writing? I don't believe this question even needs an answer but, since you asked, absolutely! Only buy from established replacement liner company's. Never buy anything, or have any work performed on a swimming pool, unless the product or service is provided by an established pool company, and is clearly described on a professionally printed company form. Good luck with your pool. -Bill Nash
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