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wsommariva

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  1. I agree it's a filtering situation. I was thinking that over the winter all very small particles and the metal removers settled to the bottom so at opening the water was crystal clear. After I started up the filter the particles started floating around again causing the cloudy condition that was present upon closing last Fall. Should I break the filter down, degrease and acid wash?
  2. After closing last year I removed all grids and soaked them in an acid/water mix. Reassembled correctly. Last week I added correct amount of DE in a 5 gallon bucket with water (pouring in skimmer on a rinse setting). So I think the filter is ok.
  3. Hi everyone. I opened my pool last week and it was crystal clear. After a day with the DE filter on it became cloudy as it was last season. We use the Tiger shark and have never vaccumed the pool in four years. I also used alot of asorbic acid last year to try to control iron stains. My pool chemistry is all within proper paramaters. So I'm thinking about using a flocculent (Bioguard powerfloc) waiting until it all settles and then vacumn to waste. Then use Bioguard kleen-it to clean the DE filter. Is this a good plan? Thanks
  4. We use two frog logs. Now it's rare that we get any dead animals. Used to get a few mice a week at least - dead and floating.
  5. Watch expiration on the reagents. I just buy new ones every year.
  6. That could be my problem also. Last year I loaded up on stain remover - mostly citric acid. Have had a cloudy pool ever since. EDIT: When I opened this year the water was crystal clear. After a day back to cloudy. So I will try the flocculent and vac to waste. We have the tiger shark and have never used the vac system that attaches to the skimmer hole. Actually we tried it once but could not get it to work. From what I have read, I need to sink the hose in the water first, then plug into the skimmer hole. EDIT: fill hose using the inlets. Turn valve onto skimmer at 100%. Filter valve to waste. Any tricks to this? EDIT: Do I need an adapter for the skimmer hole or just insert the hose? Also, is one type of flocculent better that another? I have two bottles from last year of different brands. All water chemicals test good. Thank you
  7. I think I finally figured out how to maintain my DE filter. Maybe this will help others. First of all I bought a "one pound" DE cup at my pool store. Problem is that it only holds a half pound. So I was adding only 50% of the required DE. Second problem was backwashing the filter. I used to backflush until the water came clear. Then I accidentilly discovered that I need to BF for a few minutes, turn the pump off, BF a few more mintues, turn the pump off, etc until clear water comes out. So now a couple weeks before I close the pool. I have crystal clear water for the first time in a long time.
  8. Thank you. This AM the pool was clear. Next time I won't add the PMPS. I have the CLfree system and I think I had my copper too low.
  9. I had some algae growing on the pool sides - fiberglass pool - I added 12 oz of poly 60 algecide and then one pound of pot mono per sulfate. Water quickly turned deep green. I think it will dissipate in time, but CAN WE SWIN IN THIS NOW?
  10. Don't know what else to tell you. They did a great job on my installation in 2008. Contact Mark Peditto. Installed in two days. Came back in ten days to do the concrete work. Their electrician was a bit lazy but did work to code and passed all inspections.
  11. Brownish. Noone is bothered either with the stains or the cloudy water but me. I'll keep trying to adjust my treatments.
  12. Yes still with the CL free. I monitor my copper carefully and it's always in the required zone. When I add the AA and SA, I boost the copper for a day. Then reduce to maintanance level. So I think that the SA would probably be my problem, hopefully. So, I'll reduce the SA. It's a fine balance of stain free and clear water. My iron levels are between .2 and .4 ppm. Across the street from my home are abandoned iron mines and yes we have well water. So, may be a tuff battle. Was also thinking of perhaps just using asorbic acid as a mainatnance procedure. Any thoughts on that? Thanks once again.
  13. I have a bad iron stain situation in my fiberglass pool. I keep it under control by using asorbic acid and metal sequestering agents. Sometimes I get cloudy water that lasts a week or so. I think I am overdosing on either the AA or SA. Anyone know which causes cloudy water so I can adjust my treatment?
  14. We didn't do it ourselves but I can tell you what's involved. My installer had plans for the hole. Told him how deep, the angles of the bottom, etc. After you dig the hole you need to ensure that once filled in the entire bottom is on firm ground. The base was 3/8 inch crushed stone. Same material was used to fill in the sides. Fiberglass pools tend to pop out of the ground if the water level of the soil gets really high or if you drain the pool. Mt installer installed a 6 inch PVC pipe straight down about six feet so that any ground water can escape. Also to level the pool my installer used a laser level. I think you can rent one. As long as your fiberglass pool supplier helps out with plans and advise, you can do it.
  15. A test kit highly regarded on this forum is the Taylor K2006. Make sure to replace the chemicals when they expire. Also, a good pool manual or book is essential. The Taylor test kit may have one. But get it now. Enjoy the pool.
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