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mcw53

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mcw53 last won the day on September 28 2022

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  1. In addition to replacing the circulation pump, I decided to also replace the ozone system and Moto-Massage jets. The ozone system most likely failed years ago and the MM jets stopped oscillating last year. I was overdue for a water change, so I decided to do all the work with the spa empty. I suspect this made the work a lot easier (at least dryer). I really had no difficulties. The 13 year old tubing was much more pliable than I imagined it would be. The circulation pump and ozone injector was easy to remove and the new ones sealed nicely without leaks. The most difficult part of the job was feeding the ozone tubing behind the control box and up through the ring next to the topside control panel to create an anti-siphoning loop. Removing and installing the moto-massage jets literally took 10 minutes. BTW, I did end up buying a crimping tool with an assortment of wire connectors since the circulation pump had non-terminated cords. So, for a grand total of $638 in parts and an afternoon of enjoyable labor, my spa is running as good as the day it was installed. Anyone have an idea what this job would have cost if I had my local HotSpring certified technician do the job (parts and labor)? Laing E5 Circulation Pump (74427) $170 Freshwater III Ozone System (72602) $272 Moto-Massage Jets (73542) & Air Manifold (73540) $196
  2. This is the circulation pump I plan on ordering. It comes with a non-terminated cord, so I plan on leaving the existing cord in place and connecting it to the new pump. That way I won't have to buy and install terminal connectors and it should be a lot easier than removing the old and running the new cord to the IQ2020. https://www.spadepot.com/Laing-E5-Spa-Circulating-Pump-34-Barb-120V-240V-P2838
  3. I had also tested circ white (p23) to both sides of the fuse with the same result. I'm pretty sure there isn't an air lock. I had previously removed the circulation filter standpipe, inserted a hose into the intake (sealed with a towel) and filled until I notice a rise in the water level. I'm fairly confident the circ pump is not running. Wrapping my hand around the circ pump, there is no sensation of movement/vibration and it is cold. This is ~10 minutes after powering up the spa with the pressure switch removed and jumpered. One other thing I have done is test the thermisters. LIMTHERM = 9.45kΩ REGTHERM = 9.20kΩ. Anything else I should test?
  4. Ha! I had the exact same thought. I am getting 120.7V between ground and both sides of the fuse. So, looks like its the pump. Any recommendations for sourcing the pump here in the US?
  5. Thanks @CanadianSpaTech My board does have the fuse holder as you described (see the 2nd picture). I will check the fuse later this evening or maybe tomorrow morning. Do you have a link to an online manual that would describe servicing the IQ2020? Or maybe just a screenshot of the page that describes replacing the fuse?
  6. I have a 2009 HotSpring Envoy (KK2L2088). Following a power outage, the spa went into protection mode (Ensure filters are clean and unobstructed). I've seen this before; cleaning and rotating the filters usually resolves the problem. Not this time. So I removed the filters and tried again; same result. What happens is this: About 12 seconds after applying power, the BUS STATUS and LIM OK LEDs turn GREEN. About 1 minute later, I hear the circulation pump attempt to start, but it doesn't. About 30 seconds later, the HTR ON LED turns RED and then clicks off less than a minute later. The spa goes into protection mode with both the power light (blue) and ready light (green) flashing. I've repeated this several times with basically the same results (sometimes only the power light is flashing). I did some research on this forum ( @RDspaguy and @CanadianSpaTech posts ) and suspect my circulation pump (E5-NSHNNN1_14, Watkins PN 74416) has failed. I removed the pressure switch and installed a jumper on the PS connection and powered up the spa. No protection mode this time, but both the power light (blue) and ready light (green) are flashing. As best I can tell, the circulation pump is not running. The circulation pump output on the IQ2020 board has good voltage (120.5v @ 60Hz). Every thing else appears to be working fine (jets, clean mode, lights) without going into protection mode. So, is my suspicion of a failed circulation pump correct? If so, are there any recommendations as to where to purchase a new one? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance, Mike
  7. In my opinion, member dlleno is the expert on this forum regarding biofilm removal. He has done extensive testing of the effectiveness of various products. Based on his test results, I and many others on this forum have switched to Ahh-Some. This is his most recent post on the subject. Check out his blogs documenting his testing and results ... https://boisediesel.com/blog/2016/7/spa-purge https://boisediesel.com/blog/2016/7/purge2 https://boisediesel.com/blog/2019/5/purge-shootout-seaklear-silk-balance-ahhsome
  8. I clean my Hotspring ceramic filters with Trisodium Phosphate. I use 1 cup per 5 gallons of water and let them soak for a couple hours. The Chemistry Store sells TSP in bulk for less than $1.50/lb. https://www.chemistrystore.com/product.cgi?product=17927 Edit: Just noticed the original post is over 2 months old ... oh well, I hope this helps someone.
  9. Your insane chlorine demand is an indicator that you need to change your water. Read Nitro's post on Chlorine Demand and follow his Decontamination Procedure. I recommend using Ahh-Some and before draining the tub, super-chlorinate. This will save you 475 gallons of water. Don't add the boric acid until after you decontaminate, drain and refill. I have a 450 gallon spa and add 17.2oz of boric acid to get 50ppm borates. You might want to recheck your calculations. If you need to lower TA, follow Nitro's procedure for Lowering Total Alkalinity. You will need to aerate to bring your pH up to 7.4 to 7.6 (6.8 is much too acidic). Regarding mineral sticks (e.g. Nature2), I don't believe there is much benefit using them unless your'e using MPS instead of chlorine. As long as you keep your free chlorine from falling to zero for extended periods of time, there is no need to "shock". Hope this helps. https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
  10. Excellent test and analysis dlleno. I have be using SeaKlear System Flush for years, even before it was a SeaKlear product. I have been satisfied with the product since it always produced results. I will be switching over to Ahh-Some!
  11. Thanks. I am aware of Taylor's statement on shelf life and understand their point of view. Would it be unreasonable to expect a 2 or even 3 year shelf life for DPD Powder considering the storage conditions I stated in my original post?
  12. What is the shelf-life of Taylor DPD Powder? I'm needing to refill my suppy. Amato has this for $4.80/10g ($0.48/g) and $25.72/4oz ($0.23/g). The cost/use of the 4oz bottle is less than 1/2 that of the 10g bottle, but I am concerned about shelf-life as it will take me years to use the 4oz bottle. The 4oz bottle would be stored in ideal conditions and only opened to refill the bottle in my K-2006 test kit.
  13. Great! I purchased mine before I knew about this site. Another member recently posted this thread about purchasing the kit from this website. Let us know how it goes.
  14. I use the Taylor K-2006 test kit. The best price I've seen online is here. Boric acid is sold online in granular and powdered form. It is sold for many uses, just make sure it is 100% technical grade boric acid. For instance: here, here, here and here. Use The Pool Calculator for dosing.
  15. I also use Nature2 with the dichlor-then-bleach method. I am on the 6th month of my current fill and my water is clear and odorless. I replaced the Nature2 cartridge after 4 months as directed and because I did notice an increase in chlorine demand. The CD came down with the new cartridge installed. I use chem geek's rule-of-thumb of adding 5 fl oz of 6% bleach (Clorox Regular) per person-hour of soaking. I occasionally substitute SeaKlear Chlorine-Free Shock (45.2% MPS) for some of the bleach. The MPS is slightly acidic and counteracts the pH rise that normally is seen with the dichlor-then-bleach method. This allows me to keep my pH and TA on target without adding additional balancing chems. My pH has been between 7.4 and 7.6 and TA between 70 and 80 for the last 2 months with this method plus the addition of 1 tbsp sodium carbonate. We maintain 25-30 ppm CYA (with dichlor) and 50 ppm borates (with boric acid). Our tub has an ozonator and a 24/7 circulation pump. We have averaged 40 to 45 minutes soaking per day for the last 5 months.
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