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The shaft seal is different than an o-ring. An oring would burn up because the shaft is spinning and the pump case is not. Instead there is a disk with a flat face that attaches to the shaft. There is another disk that pushes into the pump case. The faces run against eachother and are so flat that they prevent leakage between them. They are pretty easy to change if youve already got the motor off. They just push in and have an oring to hold them in place.

I'm plumbing my own spa and after looking at several pics on the net, it appears that it is frequently done without 22° fittings. Is it better to use some heat and bend the pipe or should I just make it easy and use some fittings?

It's a clevachlor poolpower. This model does not have a seperate flow switch. http://www.cleva.com.au/products/chlorinators/poolpower.asp

I bought the equipment from craigslist. The original owner told me it was a booster to the spa, I assume just the jets. By the plumbing, it looks like the 1 hp filter pump discharge goes to the the pool or to a spa floor heating jet depending on which way you turn the valve. The second 1.5 HP "booster pump" looks as if it just works the jets. There are no valves, or anything. Just an inlet and an outlet. My pool is considerably smaller than the pool in which the system came out of too. 17,000 gl vs. roughly 25,000 gl. So I don't think it will be an issue to remove the booster. So. Cal. Edison offers rebates on a lot of 2 speed pumps but I was interested in this one because I found it on sale for $450 which is considerably cheaper than any other 2-speed pump that I could find. The Booster pump is the one on the right. I am going to use it to power three waterfalls, and I will sell the other pump on craigslist. Here is a 3D model that I made of the pool that I'm building;

Im replacing my 1 HP pump and 1.5 booster pump with a single two speed pump. Does anyone have an opinion on the Jandy PlusHP? I'm looking at the PHPM2.0-2 model. I found it for $460 and my electric company offers a $200 rebate. Will that make a good pump for this situation? I havnt been able to find any online reviews.

Ah, that's a good idea. Should I kill the chlorinator when spa spillway is on (pool suction/spa dishcharge) or only kill it when it's on spa suction/spa discharge? Seems like a trade-off either way. If I kill the chlorinator when the spillway is on, I wont be able to run the spillway as often because then I wont make enough chlorine. If I only kill it when it's on spa/spa, I may over-chlorinate the spa when the spillway is on. Am I missing something or is this correct? I picked up this entire system off craigslist and I noticed that the salt system was wired directly to the pump. I'm really surprised that it wasn't already wired from a seperate relay to handle this. Makes me wonder what the previous owner did the whole time.

I've got the the Jandy AquaLink RS but unfortunately, my salt cell is NOT the Aqua Pure. I read that the Aqua Pure cell will cut its chlorine generation to 10% when the system is in spa mode however mine is an off brand and just has 220v line in. There is no way for the two units to talk back and fourth. I read through the installation manual for the sub panel and it does not mention how to wire an off brand salt cell. So, if it is indeed an issue, I will have to find a way to wire the relays so that it will shut off in spa mode. Can anyone confirm that it is indeed an issue that needs to be addressed or am I worrying about nothing?

When you wire the salt system to the load side of the filter pump, is there an issue with over chlorinating the spa when in spa mode? If so, is there an easy way to wire the relays so that the salt cell will turn off when the suction valve is on spa?

Ok, so it sounds like the cost difference between cantilever single pour and bullnose brick isnt large enough to make it worth my labor plus I'll like the cantilever more anyways. So now I just have to ensure that it is done propery. I've heard about a "slip sheet" between the bond beam and the cantilever. Does anyone have a website that sells that so I can read up on it? Also, what needs to be done to ensure I don't have a problem with tiles popping off with the single pour?

Any clue what the cost difference would be between 150 sq. ft. of deck vs. 150 sq. ft. of deck plus 85 linear feet of cantilever coping all poured in a single pour? I estimate the brick would cost me about 800 to do myself so this will help me figure out which way to go. I'd rather have the cantilever but if it adds too much more to the deck, I'll just go with brick. I live in Southern Cali. so feezing isnt an issue. Would earthquakes matter?

I'm trying to cut costs without looking cheap. I'm pretty handy so I'm doing a lot of the stuff myself, but I'm going to hire someone to do a two foot deck around the edges, butted up to existing concrete, hence the small (two foot) deck. I've heard some bad things about doing a single pour, deck and cantilever coping. Any experiences? It's such a small deck I can't see it making much of a difference. So my question is, would it be less expensive to have a two foot deck poured, and Ill do a bull-nose brick coping myself, or to just have all three feet single poured with the cantilever? I'd prefer the cantilever single pour but not if there is a large cost difference. Also, if I go single pour, what should they use between the gunite shell and the cantilever to allow the coping to move freely without cracking?

I could, but it would limit the size of my pool. I'm putting it on a side yard and there is a 6 foot concrete path next to the house, all the way to the front yard. Then I have about 20' adjacent the concrete to the property line. Subtract the 5 foot setback and 3 foot bonded deck and that only leaves a 12' wide pool. I was hoping for 15'. So I think I will have to cut the concrete back two or three feet.

Is there anyway around or an alternative to the equipotential bonding requirement so that it would be possible to place a new pool adjacent to existing concrete? I'd hate to have to rip up 3 feet of my nice stamped concrete. And in California, how far from the house must the pool be? Thanks in advance.