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ed3120

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  1. I have an above ground spa with an acrylic shell. It sits on my patio. From the outside ground pavers to the very top of the shell is 38" From the top of the water to the deepest part of the inside of the spa is 31". I have some seats that are a little deeper than others. My deepest one is 23" from the seat to the current water line, and 29" from the top of the shell. This is the number I get when I stand outside the tub and stick a tape measure in it and the current water line 6" down from the top of the shell. If me and my wife get in it, we'll displace some water, so the water level probably rises a couple of inches, making it a couple inches deeper. My other seats are around 20". I am 6' and I prefer the deeper seat. I can sit in it with shoulders submerged to keep me warm. My wife is 5' 5" and she typically sits in the shallower seats. But we both move around. It sounds like my seating is around as deep as your seat (you have a few inches to play with as long as you run within your skimmer's allotments. Maybe you can install a tall skimmer to give you more ability to adjust the water level to your liking after the fact. You can do the math to figure out that your footwells are a little deeper than mine. My kids are 10 and 7. I've had my hot tub longer than them and they've never had any complaints of it being too deep or too shallow. I hope this helps you.
  2. I'm a new pool owner with a 30x15x4' semi inground pool with a Hayward Super Pump and a Hayward XStream CCX1500RE Filter . I have a eyeball kind of thing screwed into my return inlet. When it is left in, my pressure at my filter is 22 PSI after a brand new paper cartridge. If I unscrew the eyeball, my PSI drops to 17 PSI at the filter. One advantage of the eyeball is that by pushing it out a smaller diameter, it pressurizes the stream so it reaches across the long pool to move the water better. Should I leave the eyeball in or take it out?
  3. Thanks. I changed the filter and I found the leak. One of my PVC pipes had a crack. I replaced it and no more bubbles in the pump. Wahoo!
  4. Good tip. It was stored over the winter without a chemical cleaning. Can it be chemically cleaned at this point, or is it just a tosser?
  5. I took the paper cartridge out of the filter. The system seems to push water better now, but I still see bubbles in my pump basket, and bubbles going through the clear tube between the pump and the filter. It used to surge or pulse a little (not sure how to describe it), but it doesn't do that now that I've removed the filter. The filter doesn't look that dirty. It only has one season on it and I hosed it off with a garden hose before putting it in this year.
  6. Thanks. I’ll try the shaving cream thing. My filter is after the pump. If the pump is filling with air, how can the filter be part of the problem? I’m not doubting...I’m just trying to understand how things work to better troubleshoot the problem.
  7. Thanks. I'm getting a lot of air bubbles in the pump basket. I'm also getting lots of air in the filter. I keep opening the valve in the filter to release the air. If I come back 30-60 minutes later, the filter is filled back with air and then I release it again. I have a paper filter and the filter is clean. I just cleaned it yesterday. Does that sound like a suction leak?
  8. I’m a new pool (semi-above ground) owner and I have a suction side leak. After my pump turns off, water shoots out of my skimmer quite violently and dislodges the filter basket. I know I should find the leak, but some of my piping is buried. I have taken the wire off of the skimmer and my water level is halfway up the skimmer. I don’t have a check valve between the skimmer and the pump. Should I have one? I was wondering if this would stop the back flow and allow the pressurized water to come out through the supply side and back through the inlet. That would stop my filter basket from moving. Should I install a check valve or is this a bad idea? Again, I’m new...so if I’m being stupid, let me know.
  9. My controller LCD screen has some water in it, but everything still works. It still displays the LCD numbers and symbols, it's just hard to see them where the water is. I'm not sure how it happened. Any ideas? Has anyone had any luck removing the controller, dissasembling it, and drying it out?
  10. Thank you for the information. It's surprising since I've read so many things saying the opposite. I thought it could hurt the heater pipes or something. (I'm not saying you are wrong...I just don't understand why there is so much misinformation out there.) "Water that is low in calcium hardness can be corrosive to other metal parts in your spa, particularly your heater. We recommend maintaining a calcium hardness level of 150 - 400 ppm." Leisure Time http://www.leisuretimespa.com/SpaFAQs.asp?authID=0#n " If the water does not have enough calcium, the water will draw from other minerals, including copper, aluminum and iron, (e.g., heating elements, pump seals, and internal parts on gas fired heaters)." http://www.spacare.com/understandingspaandhottubwaterchemistry.aspx "The ideal calcium hardness level for hot tubs and spas is 200-400 PPM. If your level is below about 150 PPM, some erosion of equipment parts can occur." http://www.rhtubs.com/info/water.htm
  11. Oh, so is the standard 150 ppm - 250 ppm Calcium recommendation is just to keep foaming down? I'm not that worried about foaming...more worried about not causing damage to the spa. What would be the minimum Calcium recommendation to prevent damage to the spa? My spa is 5 years old and has an acrylic shell.
  12. So I should keep my Calcium below 150 ppm? Is it safe to keep it around 100pm?
  13. I don't understand how to use Leisure Time's PH Balance product. It says to not add it to water that has more than 150 ppm calcium, but I always see recommended spa calcium levels to be 150 to 400 ppm. So if you use it in water with calcium above 150 ppm, the water gets cloudy. If you keep your calcium below 150 ppm, it's bad for your spa. Why would anyone use this product?
  14. The Leisure Time PH Balance chemical says that you don't need to maintain calcium in your tub when you use it. Is that OK? Should you not add or check calcium at all?
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