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michelb

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  1. Hi, we have to change our filter and salt cell unions so I need to change some of the plumping (inground pool). I'm going to go from the pump to the filter using 2" but then from the filter it goes to the roof and our solar heater which is all 1 1/2" (and I'm not going to replace it) and then from the roof (1 1/2") it goes to the salt generator cell which then splits and goes to the 2 jets in the pool. Once it comes back down from the roof, is there any value going back to 2" through the cell and then to the split (which will be 1 1/2" again afterwards). The pool return line is 2" from the skimmer to the pump. Or should I just do 1 1/2 from the roof solar and on ... Let me know what you think. Thanks, Mike (In case it makes any difference, Intelliflo VF pump, Hayward C3040 cartridge filter, Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt gen. 16x32 inground pool maybe 7-8' deep end - maybe 20k gallons (I'm really not sure))
  2. Hi, I just started our pool back up yesterday (live in Canada so pool only runs about 5 months per year). Everything is working fine except that our IntelliFlo VF pump is showing 0 GPM when running. It's currently running at 2000 RPM (which is probably higher than I'd normally run it but there's a lot of debris to filter out so I just set it higher for a few days) so it should definitely be registering flow (probably around 20-25 GPM) and you can certainly feel the jets and see suction at the skimmer. Any suggestions? Could it be as simple as resetting the pump somehow? Let us know. Thanks. --- UPDATE --- In case anyone else ever has the same issue, I received the following instructions from Pentair : Hello you can try a hard rest on the unit and see if this will solve that issue 1. Stop the pump 2. Press buttons 1,2,3,4 let go once they are pressed at the same time 3. Screen will say backdoor reset hit select 4. Change the 0 to 1 5. Hit enter or save 6. Cut power to the pump tills screen turns black 7. Power pump on hit speed 4 then start It seems to have fixed my issue.
  3. Hi, I'm in the process of installing a heat pump for our pool and would like your expert opinion on if it's worth installing a bypass. We have an inground pool with a VS pump, solar heating and salt water. We live in Eastern Ontario so typically use the pool from early/mid-May to early/mid October. Since we have solar heating which does a good job in the summer, we likely will only use the heat pump for 3 months per year (first and last 1.5 months of the season maybe even less). Is there any benefit in installing a bypass so that when we aren't using the heat pump, the salt water isn't flowing through the heater (although I guess if I'm not draining the heater, there would be salt water sitting in it while it's unused for 2 months). I was also thinking it might be better if I need to service it but that's relatively minor (if I use flex pipe (which I probably will since I have some extra around), I can just disconnect the inlet and outlet from the heater and then make a suitable junction to connect them directly together) What's the common practice? Let us know. Thanks, Mike
  4. That might have solved the problem. I don't know if it's because of heat shedding off the pump but the spa is old and various pieces have been replaced now and I suspect that now, whenever it's in filter cycle, the heater my turn on. It was on F8 vs F2 and setting it to F2 seems to have resolved the issue. Thanks, Mike
  5. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that and post back.
  6. The display doesn't show anything (just a very basic display) but the pump is running (single pump which runs during filtration cycle, when turned on manually or when heating) and the water gets hotter. I've never actually noticed any error code, it just gets hotter and hotter. Just so it's clear, it doesn't shut down but today was the first time I've noticed it no longer heating and the heat was at 106. When I looked at it later, it was running again (pump) and the heat was at 104. It is on a GFCI breaker. I should note that it's still pretty cool where we are (usually daily low/high of around 30s/60s) (It's been in the high 20s the last few nights) so that probably limits how hot it's getting.
  7. Hi, we have an older spa (Gulf Coast Spas DX5000 - probably about 10-15 years old. Balboa VS spa pack, single pump (no circ)). It seems that when the heater turns on, it never turns off again until it gets "too hot" (not sure when / why it stops but I've noticed it stopped when the temperature is 106F). If I power everything down and then power it back up and the water temperature is already above the set temperature (e.g. set to 96, current temp 104), then it won't turn on but it appears that as soon as it drops low enough to turn on the heater (e.g. drops to 95 or 96) or maybe it's when it hits recirculate cycle, the heater turns on and then never turns off until I power it off again. It does appear to show the correct temperature on the display panel. Any suggestions? Could it be one of the temperature sensors? Relays? (including pictures in case it could be useful)
  8. Thanks for the response. Looks like the problem might have been heater relay - replaced the whole board and it works fine now. Mike
  9. We recently got a spa from a new owner that didn't want it but it's showing "188" on the Topside Control. The control pack is a Balboa VS500Z. Any suggestions on troubleshooting? The spa pack has a J1 & J2 port of the control and it's suppose to be in J1 but if it's in J1, we get the 188 status. If we put it in J2 (AUX topside control port), everything looks normal except that heater doesn't come on (which might be normal when using AUX topside control port). Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Everything else seems to work fine (even with "188" showing, we can still turn pump to higher / lower speed, we just can't seem to get the heater to work (the heater doesn't get 240V)).
  10. Thanks for the quick response. I didn't see any solid red LED but I'll have another look. It does sound like it's a bad pressure switch but I just replaced it with a new one so I'm wondering if it's something on the board itself. I guess I'll have to do more investigation. Thanks.
  11. Thanks for the info. The element is fine (forgot to mention that this is the first thing I replaced thinking it was dead). It could be a relay but as mentioned, if I just pull one of the contacts on the pressure switch and reconnect it after a second, it works fine but you have to do this to "reset" it every time.
  12. Hi, our spa (about 10 year old) with a Spa Builders S class board isn't really heating. We're getting the 3 flashing dots so I thought I had to replace the pressure switch. The catch though is that when it first powers on, it's fine, it's only after it completes a heat cycle that I get the 3 flashing dots (i.e. disconnect spa when the water isn't that hot (i.e. below 100), reconnect spa and the heater works fine but as soon as it hits 100 and it stops heating, then you get the 3 flashing dots. Even once the water temp drops below where it should start heating again, it doesn't. (you also get the same behavior by making the set point up / down). One thing I did notice is that if I simply disconnect one of the leads on the pressure switch and then wait 1 second before reconnecting, the 3 dots will go away and it will work fine until the heater turns off again. I can also reproduce this if I remove the adjustment valve screw and simply push and hold the "plunger" on the pressure switch for 1 second. In case it's not clear, I thought it was the pressure switch so replaced that but that hasn't solved my problem. Any suggestions or is this a sign that something is wrong with the spa pack and I need to replace it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
  13. Looks like you were on the money about the salinity level. We were showing 3.3-3.4 on the Aquapure and when I had it tested a few weeks ago, they gave us around the same value but when we brought it on Friday to retest after your suggestion - it came in at around 4. The guy said that he had just recalibrated his meter. I'll bring it in to another place just to confirm but it looks like my salt level was way too high. I already drained / refilled some water and the chlorine generator seems to work better now but I think I'm still too high % so I'll have to drain and refill some more. Thanks again for all the help - I'll check my readings once I get the water ok (and we're going away for the long weekend so it probably won't be until next week).
  14. Thanks again for the quick response. I did test it last week (I don't think it's changed much since) and at the time the unit was showing 3.2 and the pool store said 3.3 but I'll try to get my wife to go again tomorrow (if it makes any difference, I think the water balance is pretty good. Calcium level might be a tad low and ph might be a tad low but everything else is in the proper range).
  15. Sorry about the delay. I finally got around to checking the test points (we left for family vacation a few days after my last post). Anyway this is what I'm seeing (tried with 2 different meters): 1-8: 80V (not 75V) 2-7: 71V (not 65V) 3-6: 21V 4-5: 0V (not 120mV) Does that make sense? My cell still does 'function' (although I'm not sure if I'm generating any chlorine (I'm using pucks until I have the chlorine generator figured out)) but same as detailed above, if I set production too high, I get error code 125 or 123. Let me know what I should do next. Thanks, Mike
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