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GJJ

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  1. Thanks for the info...so here's the verdict: Three companies say you must go down to gunite. Always. Bond coating is just a less labor-intensive process, so that's why people do it. One company says sandblasting top layer and bond coating is all that's necessary. Don't disturb the plaster that is originally bonded to gunite...that's your best seal. Other company agrees, but says it will have to be determined which method is best for our pool after supervisor evaluates pool. They have capability to do both and will determine that on the job. Price is the same. So here's the verdict on prices. We're going white plaster here mixed with quartz...I think these days, that's unanimous....mix plaster with 100% quartz and you have a stronger plaster by 5-10 years. $4200 (just plaster...not including new "up to code" drain covers, trim tile, etc.) Down to gunite $4750 Down to gunite $5100 bond coat or gunite...whichever procedure needed Don't have in front of me other two bids...somewhere in the vicinity. No one offered to maintain pool for 30 days, and the warranties were anywhere from 5-10 years, 5 years being average, and only one company said they'd do chemicals for five days (and charge $450, by the way). So, I guess my initial question stands...to jackhammer or not?
  2. Company #3 coming today...#4 tomorrow, #5 Friday. I'm glad someone finds this entertaining. Quotes so far are through the roof...regular white plaster at about $4750. Crazy.
  3. We have delamination occurring in our pool. The top layer of plaster is coming off exposing the layer underneath...not gunite. The question is, do we jackhammer out all of the plaster all the way down to the gunite (one company's suggestion), or do we just sandblast off top layer and bondcoat (another company's suggestion). Company A says jackhammer best way...Company B says jackhammer is overkill for our problem and Company A is saying that because they don't have equipment to do both. Help.
  4. Same here as well...when I went in and walked around, more "bubbles" pooped and chipped off, so I'm thinking it's worse than it looks. Have two estimates coming in today, so I'll pass on any pertinent info I gather. They are replaster companies, so I'm assuming they'll come in with, "you have to repair this ASAP." I'll try to get an honest answer. To jackhammer out all of the plaster or not...that is now the question. One company says you just need to sand blast off top layer, the other company says you need to jackhammer it all out. Make it stop please.
  5. Same here as well...when I went in and walked around, more "bubbles" pooped and chipped off, so I'm thinking it's worse than it looks. Have two estimates coming in today, so I'll pass on any pertinent info I gather. They are replaster companies, so I'm assuming they'll come in with, "you have to repair this ASAP." I'll try to get an honest answer.
  6. There were a couple of "sections" of tile that were removed and replaced....the spa wall between the spa and pool and then a section about 2' X 2' on one of the bond walls. Also, a few tiles in the corners were replaced where they were loosened. The tile guy did a great job and went around himself and checked every tile to make sure they were adhered well. The sound is definitely different when they are not bonded. The tile should not be an issue. I guess my main concern is that the gunite is not getting wet...that the "new" layer of plaster we are seeing is still waterproof. I really don't care how much of the pool becomes delaminated because at this point, it is obvious we need to replaster. We just want to wait until it's cooler/conditions are better, but we don't want "problems" (meaning leakage, damage to gunite, etc.) to get worse. If it's just cosmetic, if more could delaminate, that's fine. We have a guy coming out today...it will be interesting to see what he says.
  7. That definitely does not sound good. Sanding won't work. I'm thinking that much of the second layer of plaster may have to be removed. You can scoop up a piece of the plaster with your leaf net. No need to jump in. The quartz is stronger and more durable, but somewhat rougher depending on how the surface is finished. Be sure that the contractor shows you actual samples so that you can feel the texture. I would avoid the pebble. It can look nice but it is too rough for most people. Jumped in and pulled up a small piece. About 3/32" thick or 1/8" at most. Sanding definitely is not an option at this point...it is literally peeling up as I moved across the bottom. It would take forever to sand. Here's my question before a new round of contractors come in for bids...is this a cosmetic issue only or does this need to be fixed ASAP. I mean, it is obvious we need to replaster, but we're just wondering if it has to be done now to avoid further damage, or is nothing going to happen if we wait a few months. I'd heard the same thing about pebble tech, so we were looking at the Colorquartz or similar plasters. If you have any recommendations, please feel free to divulge. You've been right on the money so far, and I appreciate the advice. Hindsight, and the pool contractor should have warned us, we should have done the tile work above water line, mastic, and waited to seal cracks until it was cooler.
  8. It's pretty thin, but I think more than 3/32-inch. I'm going to get a piece when it heats up. Some of the areas are bigger than my hand and growing. Trouble is, it seems there are more and more spots cropping up, so it would take a scuba diver and half a day to sand them. We're getting estimates on replastering this week. Any suggestions there? We've heard the new quartz plasters are much stronger.
  9. We just spoke with the contractor, and he said to just go underwater and sand them to blend with non-delaminated plaster. The spots are white, so I guess we are looking at plaster not gunite. Is this a reasonable solution? A reasonable response from contractor? Admittedly, our plaster is not in the best condition, but it definitely was not chipping before repairs.
  10. Thanks for all your help. Is the repair of the blistered plaster the responsibility of the company that did the work on my pool? Should my position be that they were responsible for notifying me of this possibility when they did not and that they did not take precautions given the heat of the day the work was done?
  11. Thanks for your help. There was a crack that they also repaired below the water line. The pool has not been replastered in at least 15-20 years. We have lived in the house for 8 years. I went out and checked. The material that is exposed from under the bubbling and flaking off is white. Can these areas be patched? Or do I have to have the entire pool replastered? It would be nice if they could fix it without draining the pool again (this may be a stupid statement). Is that possible? The people that repaired it come back to work tomorrow. They seem reputable. So, I think they will treat us fairly.
  12. The company that worked on the pool drained it so the worker could get access to the tiles. The bubbles that I saw have now popped. There are 5-6 spots the size of my fist that look like the plaster chipped off. Is that the gunite that I am seeing below? Will the pool now leak?
  13. We just had our pool drained and hired a company to fix broken tile Friday and Saturday. Saturday at noon, we started refilling the pool. This morning (Sunday) we noticed the plaster is bubbling at the bottom of the pool. We live in Southern California and there is not a water table to worry about. Does anyone know why?
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