Spanky Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Ok I'm in the process of installing a Chlormaker IL in the tub. I've got a handle on what basic parameters I'm going to use but can't seem to settle on what CH to target. Here's what I've settled on so far; CYA: 30ppm TA: 50ppm Borates: 50ppm pH: 7.6 (Target) FC: 3.0 Salt: 1600ppm Now the problem, what CH to target? With both Bromine and Dichlor/Bleach I was using 150ppm with no problems, now Chlormaker recommends 200-300ppm. I know that higher CH may make the water less corrosive but high CH leads to calcium build up on the electrodes! That's why ACE recommends 25-50ppm. I'd love to hear from anyone currently using a chlormaker and what CH level you're using. The plumbing modifications are almost done and I'm getting ready to refill the tub so I need to establish a target soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Absolutely positively do NOT have the CH at 200-300 ppm. As you point out, you'll just get a lot more scaling in the Chlormaker cell, though the borates will cut that down a lot. Just use 150 ppm as you have in the past as that will prevent foaming. I'm not sure why you are thinking about following the manufacturers recommendations for something like CH anyway (except for ACE where they genuinely need it to be low in their system since their cells are very sensitive to getting calcium carbonate scaling). The 200-300 is a throwback to "standard" CH levels for saturating the water with calcium carbonate and isn't needed in an acrylic spa. I presume you are switching to this system for automation so you don't have to dose, especially when not using the spa, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I presume you are switching to this system for automation so you don't have to dose, especially when not using the spa, correct? That's absolutely correct. I love the water clarity and life expectancy of the chlorine but miss the convenience of maintaining a "Background" level with the Bromine floater. I'm thinking this may be a viable solution. (That and the pool was just converted with a Hayward SWCG) I was indeed concerned about the 200-300 ppm CH , for obvious reasons, but I really couldn't find any posts dealing with the subject. I've never concerned myself with the pool CH (it's 80ppm) as there is little to no possibility of foaming and it's vinyl. I'll target 150ppm and see how things go. Thanks Chem Geek for your input, I guess I just needed some re-assurance that my thinking wasn't "Out to lunch". As a rule, I don't generally ignore Manufacturers recommendations, but in this case I agree that Controlomatic maybe a bit too "Old School" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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