Jandy Lx/lt Heater Hi Limit Corrosion

[wa5pcg]

Hi all, new to the forum. I am about to undertake the replacement of my hi limits switches in my Jandy LX/LT heater this weekend. As this will be the second set in a short time, I will also be replacing the brass plugs with the reapir kit, R0383200. My specific question is, will I need any other materials, like ssilcone sealants and such, in performing this job. If so, I want to run out and get everything I need beforehand.

More generally, if anyone has done this repair and can offer any good advice, I would be all ears and much appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

[Pool Clown]

Are you sure the hi-limits are your problem and not a symptom of another problem? In thirty or so years, i cant remember the last time a hi-limit was the problem but more a symptom of another. I would check both the by-passes. Mainly the thermal, which is heat sensitive. If corroded, it wont open properly, and cause overheating which will open the hi-limit switch(s).

[wa5pcg]

Thanks for the reply PC.

It is a salt water pool and about 3 years after it was installed, the heater would not work and was giving a high limit fault. The series path for the hi limit switches was open, and after removing them, I observed that they were corroded all of the way through the metal cover of the switch. I replaced them and everything worked for about 6 months and then the same problem with the switches corroded through again. I found this blog which describes the problem to a T. Basically, it says that the brass plugs that the hi limits physically contact for thermal transfer are being corroded by the salt water which allows th salt water to leak past them and corrode the switches.

My link

The part that covers the Jandy heater and the replacement brass plug kit, part number R0383200 is toward the bottom of the blog page. Likethe guy writing the blog, I live in Dallas.

I tore it apart this morning and the brass nuts used to hold the plugs in the holes feel apart into little pieces. The plugs were not as bad but, with the nuts disinteregrated, there was nothing holding it together but the corrosion itself.

It is a bit of a chore to get the thing apart but I managed. I am about to reassemble everything this afternoon. I must admit that it seems damn ironic to be working on a pool heater when the temperature in Dallas today is well over 100F. :-)

It sounds like this issue may not have been discussed much on this forum. I am considering taking pictures of the process to help others in the future - it depends on if me or the camera melts in this heat before hand. :-)

[Pool Clown]

What salt level do you normally run in your pool?

[Wizzard of spas]

Hi all, new to the forum. I am about to undertake the replacement of my hi limits switches in my Jandy LX/LT heater this weekend. As this will be the second set in a short time, I will also be replacing the brass plugs with the reapir kit, R0383200. My specific question is, will I need any other materials, like ssilcone sealants and such, in performing this job. If so, I want to run out and get everything I need beforehand.

More generally, if anyone has done this repair and can offer any good advice, I would be all ears and much appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

[/quote

teffalon tape, that's all you need to know. Check your PH once a week.

[danramos]

Hi, I'm in the same boat. I replaced the hi limit switch about two years ago and got the heater working again until a couple of months ago. I went ahead and replaced them but I notices one sensor was corroded. Two months later, I had the same fault code come up, checked the sensor and it was corroded already. By touching the brass plug inside the header you can tell it is all corroded as well. I ordered the brass plug repair kit as suggested in this thread but haven't had the chance to work on it. How did you access the inside to replace the brass nuts? Did you add teflon tape to the plugs? Any advice is highly appreciated. Thanks!