frankym

Hello I live in Las Vegas and am familiar with the 'hard' water. I'm not an expert but have been successful in maintaining my pool for 14 years. One thing you didn't mention was having put in a stabilizer to help hold the chlorine. This is needed to help prolong the life of the chlorine once added. Any pool store should carry this. It comes under several names but just tell them you need stabilizer if you have not added it as yet. Once it is added it will not go away. If you add too much the only way to reduce it is by draining some pool water and adding fresh water. Creep up on it so you don't over add. My pool is small, 16,000 gal, and I use a floating feeder for the chlorine that holds the 3 inch tablets. With such a large pool you may need two feeders. There are injectors that put chlorine in but only when the pump is running. There may be other methods available. The salt system is supposed to work well but it is expensive. Keeping the pH in tow is a daily affair in hot weather because of the evaporation rate. Add acid according to the directions on the container for a pool your size. Check the pH in 24 hours. A newly plastered pool will keep slacking for awhile and will drive the pH up a little faster than normal. I maintained a pool for a neighbor after it was replastered and after about 6 months it didn't need as much acid to keep the pH in the proper range. I have done searches on pool water chemistry and found some very good articles. Here is one: http://chlorine.americanchemistry.com/Chlorine-Benefits/Safe-Water/Pool-Treatment-101.html

I live in Southern Nevada and have been told by the local pool supply store that all new pump motors (replacement or new installations) will soon be required to be of the new high effeciency type either two speed or variable speed. They could not tell me when this was to go into effect for Nevada. Arizona and California have already adopted this requirement. Does anyone know a date?

I had this problem on a neighbors system. Take all the valves apart that are on the suction side and replace all the 'O'rings. Grease them up with a good stiff silicone grease and reassemble. See if this fixes or lessens the air being seen. Sometimes when you first start up a pump after having the intaken open, it takes awhile to work all those air bubbles out. Also replace the 'O'ring under the lid of the pump screen chamber. Grease it up also. I wouldn't expect to see dirt or dirty water from an underground broken suction line unless you have had a recent flood that would bring the ground water level up to a very high level. I didn't ask how deep your suction lines are burried. Hope this helps

Hello I came across an odd situation lately and was wondering if anyone else has had this experience. I replaced the seal in my pool pump (Hayward SuperII). It has been fine for the last couple months and is not leaking. Over the past couple weeks a high pitch squeel is comming from the pump which is sometimes intermittent and varies in loudness. Having worked for a bearing manufacturer for many years I know how to listen to bearings with a stethescope to determine if a bearing is failing. Both ends of the motor sound the same producing normal bearing rumble and no high pitch. I am suspecting it may be the faces of the ceramic seal. Just wondering if anyone else has had this experience. I'm going to let it go till it either quits or something fails. Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas

I haven't delt with these pumps, however, I have delt with air leaks and the flooding of suspected areas with water works well. My concern with air leaks would be, How much air is considered detremental to the pump or ceramic shaft seal or other attached equipment? I would think if the output pressure is still being maintained, the cermic seal would still be okay. As fae as other equipment I don't have any information. Please comment.