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Sterling30D

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  1. Hi Trumpy, What type of plaster did they use and what makes it look horrible? We had our pool built three years ago and went with 3M Color Quartz. The finish didn't look "even" and we could see variations in the shade of the plaster. I've been told from several pool owners and Plaster companies that this is normal. Just wondering if maybe this is what you're experiencing.
  2. You might want to call a tile repair guy who would possibly have a lower price. He could dig around and photo the cause then fix it. Just a thought since it is next to the tile, a good tile repair guy should be able to handle it too. That's not a bad idea. At least I can see if a tile repair guy will be willing to come out and look at it. Thanks billp.
  3. Thanks for the response. That makes perfect sense. The Gunite guy is very nice and said he would cover the cost if the problem was caused by anything he did. I know that if re bar is causing the rust it's the Gunite guys fault because he didn't use enough gunite to cover the re bar but who's fault would it be if it's tie wire that's causing the rust? Do the Gunite guys remove the tie wire or do the Plaster guys remove it? Thanks for the advise as well Pool Clown. I'll try to take some time off work to be there when they expose the cause of the rust. I might even take some picture before and after.
  4. I need a little advice. We have a two year old inground gunite pool with 3M Color Quartz plaster. About three months ago I noticed a rust stain in the tile line where the tile and plaster meet. It started out as a small rust stain but started to seep rust and now there is a pretty dark rust stain on the side wall and a line of rust on the tile above where the rust is seeping. The pool company that built our pool closed their doors and filed bankruptcy so we have no way of getting them to honor their warranty. I was told that rust like this is usually caused by exposed rebar that was not properly covered with gunite or a tie wire that was not removed before plastering. Either way I had a plaster company come out to give me an estimate of the repair and he siad it would cost $550. That includes material and labor. They'll have to partially drain the pool, chip away the plaster to expose the cause of the rust, cut out the rebar or tie wire that's causing the rust and patch the plaster. Does this cost sound about right? I would like to get competative estimates but can't find any other company willing to even come out to look at the pool let alone quote a repair cost. Pool is in Moreno Valley California. If anyone knows a plaster company willing to come out and give me an estimate I'd appreciate it. On the upside, the Gunite company said that if it was determined that they were the cause of the rust they would cover the repair cost. Problem is that the plaster company that came out works with the Gunite company on a lot of jobs so getting them to admit that it was the gunite companies fault may be difficult.
  5. Anyone have this happen? This weekend I noticed that there was a puddle of water around the Cartridge Filter and I could hear a hissing sound comming from the Pressure Release Valve. I turned the pump on and noticed that water was leaking out from around the the valve. I pulled the valve off and inspected the two rubber O-Rings and they looked fine. I lubed them up good and put the valve back on. The leak got worse with water now squirting out in a strean. I've ordered replacement O-Rings and think that should fix the problem but Since the equipment is only a year and a half old I just wanted to know if anyone else has had this happen or has had to replace the O-Rings in this valve. They're cheap and if I had to replace them every two years it wouldn;t be a problem but I would think that they would last a little longer than that. By the way, if anyone wants to know it's a Hayward Swimclear C4025.
  6. This is our first pool and we went with the 3M Quartz Crystal finish. For some reason my daughter and her friend have come out of the pool after being in for a few hours with the bottom of their feet bloody. It looks like the they took sandpaper and rubbed the bottom of their toes raw. I use to swim a lot as a kid but I don't ever recall having this happen. Does anyone know if this is normal? The 3M Quartz doesn't feel smooth but isn't really rough either. We went with the Carribean Blue.
  7. You are under a misconception. A salt water pool uses a chlorine generator to make chlorine. The salt you add to the pool water produces sodium chloride. The salt water cell adds a electric charge to water passing through it and seperates the sodium and chloride which produces chlorine gas. It then infuses the chlorine gas into the water and returns it to the pool. Chlorine is what is used to sanatize pool water. Salt does not sanitize water. The benefits you get are that Chlorine is produced by the generator so you don't need to add chlorine manually or purchase it. You also use the same salt that is used to soften water so the pool water feels softer and silky. You would still be using chlorine. I do notice that with the salt water my skin doesn't feel as dried out and itchy as with a normal fresh water pool but that may all be in my mind. Salt Water Generators make pool care quite a bit easier and I would highly recommend them. Stay away from products like "Ozonators" which claim to use Ozone to sanitize pool water. Chlorine is the only thing you should be using to sanitize your pool.
  8. I don't know what model Hayward heater you have but ours has three settings. Standby, Spa and Pool. The Spa and Pool settings are essentially the same thing. We actually have two valves (Suction and Return) that we either open or close to seperate the pool and spa. Standby pretty much turns the heater off. The pilot stays lit regardless of whether the heater is in standby or not.
  9. Is it normal for the pressure in a cartridge filter to jump up 10 PSI when I switch from pool suction and return to spa suction and return? At the suggestion of my pool manufacturer I pulled out the four filters and hosed them off to clean all the loose plaster off of them. I didn't notice the pressure increase this way before I cleaned the filters and was wondering it's normal. The pressure stays constant around 20 PSI when I have the suction and return set to the pool but when I switch it over to the spa the PSI jumps to around 30.
  10. Sounds like what you are talking about is a cantilever edge. That's where the concrete is poured right up to the pool and usually bullnoses at the waters edge. Using Stamped and colored concrete makes this a really nice. We considered doing this with our pool but decided against it. We have small children and decided to go with the standard safety grip so they would have something to hold on to while in the pool. It came out nice but I think I would have rather done the cantilever. If we didn't have the small ones I think we would have gone that route. Only thing that bothered us was being told that the cantilever will eventually crack and break off and we would eventually need to replace (Patch) sections of it. We were told that the patching would stand out and it might not look good in the long run. Oh well, we made our choice and I'm happy with it. Cantilever is more expensive than going with most copings. Adding on to that the price for stamping and coloring the conrete it can add on an additional five to ten thousand to the price of the pool. We also did the 3M quartz crystals as a finish. We chose the Carribbean Blue and it came out beautifully. We ended up tiling the waterline. When you fill the pool for the first time a dirty ring is left on the water line. We were told to make sure we continued to allow the pool to fill until we were half way up the bottom row of tiles. The ring was left on the tiles but was easy to wipe off. If we would have stopped the fill and allowed the water to sit at the 3M plaster it would have left a ring in the paster and would have been difficult to get out. No matter what you decide to do you're going to have a beautiful pool. Congratulations with your decission and ENJOY!
  11. We have an attached 8' spa with two spillovers. You should be able to turn the spillover off. You don't want the spa to spill into the pool anyways when you have it running. On our equipment there are two valves that we switch over to shut off flow to the pool and only have the flow going to the spa. This allows us to heat up the spa without heating up the entire pool as would happen if the spillover didn't stop. So only the spa water is being circulated, heated up and pumped back into the spa.
  12. If you want to know your salt levels you need to use a chemical test for chloride (such as the Taylor titration testkit for chloride or the Aquachek Salt Test strips.) The salt level meters in SWGs are really conductivity meters and only estimate the salt level and the level will change as the temperature of the water changes. It's close enought for government work so don't loose any sleep over your reading of 3100 ppm. However, it's ususally a bit better to run the salt slightly higher than lower since it will help lengthen the life of your cell and it gives you a bit of backup in case you get a rainstorm that will dilute the salt level in the water. Your SWG will shut off and stop producing chlorine if the salt level drops below 2500 ppm to protect the cell. Great, thank you so much for the reply waterbear.
  13. Hi everyone, I'm a brand new pool owner and opted to go with an SWG system. I'm using the Goldline Aqua Rite and just started it up a few days ago. My pool is 18,000 Gallons and I added 400lbs of salt (8 bags at 50lbs per bag). My pool is showing that it is at 3100 ppm. The Manual says that 3200ppm is optimal but I really didn't want to open another bag of salt just to get that extra 100ppm. The Control System shows that the pool isa at 3200ppm when it first starts up and then drops to 3100ppm after about an 30 minutes. I have the output set at 70% and the pump is on for 8 hours a day. My chlorine levels are good and the pool is holding the free chlorine so everything seems fine. Does it hurt anything to run the SWG system at 3100ppm or should I add salt to bring it up to 3200ppm? I apologize in advance for my ignorance. We jumped into this pool head first (pun intended) and did little research before hand. Keeping everything at optimal levels is a little overwhelming at first. there seems to be so much I need to know.
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