denvertub

So I couldn't test the flakes because once I balanced the new water at 7.4 ph, 130 ca, 50 ta, and borates the flakes completely disappeared. Looks like we should be good to go! Water is crystal!!!!!!!!! Thanks again for the feedback chem geek!!

So I couldn't test the flakes because once I balanced the new water at 7.4 ph, 130 ca, and 50 TA the flakes completely disappeared. Looks like we should be good to go! Water is crystal!!!!!!!!!

Thanks chem geek. I'll measure csi tomorrow but in the mean time I have one follow up. If I determine the flakes to be calcium carbonate it would seem to me that it would be harmless for continued use of the tub. It appears to be substantially improved since changing the water. Do you think I should still flush and fill again or is it ok to let it go until the next water change (at which time I will take your advice and also use the Ahh-some product). Thanks again for the reply. Mitch

I just discovered small flakes about the size of fish food circulating around in my tub after running the jets. I use nitro's bleach method and have done so successfully for many years now. The flakes are an off white color and I'm trying to figure out how to resolve the issue. There's no film whatsoever on the surface of the acrylic inside the tube and I assume the flakes built up on the internal plumbing and separated out into the water when I ran the tub. I just changed the water but the flakes are still present as the jets probably dislodged more after running the jets again. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Oh, and yes I use Dichlor (about 12 tbs) over the first month after set up... that consistently get me to about 30 cya.

Thanks for your reply Richard! Interesting... When I plug 500 gallons into the pool calculator I arrive at 28 oz borax by volume to arrive at 50 ppm borates. That's what I've been using for the past 5 years. How did you come up with your calculation? Assuming you are correct, should I replace some water to lower borates? ... and how might the higher borate level effect the other measurements? Anyhow, the problem that I'm having is that TA drops too much when I add enough acid to bring me to my target ph. I've been using a properly calibrated Milwaukee digital ph meter that I happen to have for my marine aquarium. I just used the Taylor color test kit as well and they're both close enough such that I think I have a proper ph reading. After a few tries raising the water to about 100 ppm TA and lowering with acid while aerating, I just tested again and I'm at about 7.7 ph and about 45 ppm TA. Tub is at 102 degrees. Based upon Nitro's article, I should be at 7.6 ph and 80 ppm TA with CH at 150. Thanks again for your assistance on this issue. Another question I have is the effect of temperature on ph, it seems like the ph drops a fair amount when I leave the probe in the cup of tub water for a long period of time. Does the fact that I maintain my tub at 102 make a material difference from the 100 which Nitro assumes in his article.

I've been using the bleach method successfully since buying my Hotsprings Grandee five years ago. Just had it tuned up at which time the tech cleaned the lines but I can't remember the name of the product used and he also increased the ozone bubble flow. He emptied and filled the tub but I told him I would take care of the chemicals. I did my usual set up with the same amounts of calcium and borates (mule team) which has worked on every tub change but now I can't get the ph and ta in line. When I attempted to lower the ph and ta after the adding borates and ca, the ta comes down more rapidly than ph so I'm stuck at ph 8.2 and ta 40 ppm. I used the pool calculator to arrive at CA and borates levels. Calcium is at 150 ppm and I added 28 oz of borates (although it was an older box and clumpy in the measuring cup). I've been aerating as usual during the balance process. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

"To get to 20 ppm CYA in a hot tub, you would add Dichlor at a rate of around 4 ppm FC (2 teaspoons in 350 gallons) per day for about a week and then switch to unscented bleach (3 fluid ounces of 6% bleach in 350 gallons) after that, assuming that chlorine usage is around 4 ppm FC per day on average." Question regarding the amount of chlorine. I've got a 500 gal. tub and I'm curious about the average free chloring usage. With our tub it's usually one or two people a day for about 15-30 minutes on average. I've been adding approximately 4oz of bleach per day but I'm keeping my fc level at about 1-3 ppm and sometimes even closer to zero. What are others experiencing with regard to the specific amount of bleach to add per day. Should I still add 4oz on days where we do not use the tub at all.... Should I be adding a percentage more than 4oz on days we do use the tub? Thanks

Yes it's a 10 min clean cycle and I guess that's what I'll do if it's recommended. I was hoping to run the tub as efficiently as possible since it could be an extra half hour or more a day with the main pump running from the clean cycle depending on usage. One other question. Do you add the bleach directly to the tub or to the filter compartment? Thanks

I've just started using the bleach method and adding between 1 and 4 ozs. of bleach after each use depending upon time and number of people (usually 15 -30 min with one or two people). This seems to be keeping me in the 1-3 ppm range. My system also has ozonation and ag. There is a 5 gal/hr. continuous circ. pump in my tub. I know your supposed to run the 10 min. clean cycle with the addition of granular dichor. Do I need to run the jets for the full ten minute with the bleach? Or can I just put them on for a minute or two before covering it back up. I do a shock to 12 ppm once a week and do run for 10 minute and leave open for 20. I have 60 ppm TA, 7.6 pH, 140 CH, cya is about 30-40 and 50 ppm borates. Does this all sound about right? BTW, I love the silkiness since adding the borates. Thanks Nitro and Chem Geek.

Thanks Richard, so the next question is.... Assuming water is otherwise balanced, If I have an ozonator and already puch high pH values especially with the jets going, do I really want to use the borax as a buffer in the first place? Thanks

I'm learning that lots of general household items, bleach, borax are acceptable to maintain water chemistry. What about calcium chloride ice melt pellets? If so, how do I know how much to add to a 500 gal. tub in order to raise the calcium level to the recommended range? Thanks

My wife keeps "20 Mule Team Borax" in the laundry room. It is sodium tetraborate decahydrate. It doesn't state the percentage on the box. Is this an acceptable form of borate additive? Thanks

Thanks Richard. I just picked up the TF-100.

Hi, I'm a newbie. Thanks to the veterans here for a lot of useful info! I think I'm going to try the dichlor/bleach method and have a question about test kits. There are quite a few recommendations for the Taylor K-2006 test kit but I'm wondering what the need for the acid and base demand tests are. I found this PoolLife test kit which is made by Taylor and is similar to the K-2006 but doesn't have the acid and base demand tests. Is anyone familiar with this Kit? Here's the eBay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/COMMERCIAL-STYLE-6-WAY...%3A1%7C294%3A50