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IntrustCSLLC

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  1. Wow, I won't even go into the problems you were having or might not have noticed you were having with the shell in this condition. You are going to have to have someone (unless you are experienced at packing) remove all the loose chunks, ensure the integrity (repair/retie as needed, NV code requires 2' overlay for non surcharged areas along with the depth, and bond beam requirements, bla bla bla) of the steel and re-pack. Then re-plaster the entire spa (you can't patch). You will need professionals to handle this. Fortunately(SP?) I don't see any plumbing in the damwall.
  2. Hi Alisa I'll overview and get to some of your questions. What will the average depth be? If it is 4' then your total gallons will be about 15,400 give or take. We will assume that the run is average or what is called "within the base run" (most pool companies use 20') There are many factors that are unknown (distance from pool to equip, how many bends the run has etc) to get a really accurate idea. Generally a 6 hr turn over rate or 36 GPM is recommended. If it was just a pool then a 2hp should be fine (29,000 gallons in 6 hrs with average conditions), Pentair (my personal choice) or Hayward are good choices. The spa however will effect the hp of pump or pumps as well. The general rule is 1/2 hp per a jet (4 jets = 2hp)if there are 6 jets then a booster pump should be considered. Quotes: Quotes will vary for many reasons here are a few: pool companies purchase one brand of equip and always claim that it is the best. They get it at a discounted price and advertise it as "exclusive". Some companies pay more for the better equip, some don't, some get better discounts due to volume, some don't. pool companies give quotes as mentioned above in "base runs" example: 70' perimeter (add all sides together or measure around the edge) with 300 sq ft of deck = $15995.00, every perimeter foot added is $200.00 etc (spa perimeter is $100). This is the same for everything. Spa base, floor system base etc. 20' base for pipes anything over 20' costs more per foot. Adding options like auto fill, xtra returns, xtra skimmer all have base amounts. All of this is based on how much the sub contractors are charging the pool companies OR how much it costs the pool company if they have in-house crews (cheaper labor) actual construction costs: gunite or handpack, sub contractors or in-house, base runs and minimum amount of decking the list goes on and on. Skimmers: another general rule is if the surface area exceeds 600 (length x width) the a 2nd skimmer should be added AND 1-2 additional pool returns as well to total 5-6. 2 1/2" pipe to the first skimmer with a 2 1/2 tee the reduced to 2" to the other skimmer. spa a 6x8 should have at least 6 jets (2.5hp booster 2 1/2" suc and return), 8 makes more sense (3hp booster 3" suction and 2 1/2" return) should be adequate up to 100' run. the jets should be staggered, or the bench can be varied I'll shut up now and yes please attach 3D of proposed pool p/c and s/s can address the other concerns better than I
  3. The way it is installed he won't be able to restrict the amount of water in that line unless you raise the handle to bypass the stopper. That line will always be 100% open (if the guts have not been rotated)
  4. 30 psi is standard here, all pipe should be sch 40, any medium bodied glue with primer. Pressure testing should be tested above 20 psi as surges regularly exceed that, this will eliminate bad joints. Note that if it leaks at 30 psi then it will leak at 15 psi, on the other side if it doesn't leak at 30 psi then it won't leak at 70 psi (pipes and joints-filters usually blow at about 80-90.
  5. What size gas line do you have, how long is the run from the meter to the heater, and is there anything else utilizing gas from that same line (bbq etc)? This will dictate what size heater you can use.
  6. I'm guessing you are not getting the pump adequately primed 'cause it certainly sounds like it's pulling fine. Have you tried isolating the suction side to one line or another to see if it will prime that way? If you do get it to pull, then open the other remaining line(s) slowly, and if it starts to cavitate when opening a particular line, then I would investigate that line further. The skimmer basin has two feeds. Just so I understand your suggestion, I should plug both lines at the skimmer basin, then fill the lines from the pump reservoir until full, then close the lid on the reservoir and then start the pump while unplugging one of the lines. If I get adequate suction, then slowly open up the other line. Correct? A pool with no valves,..did I miss something. Can you send pic of the equipment? Don't plug anything, how many suction lines are there (skimmer, main drain, pool vac etc)? I'm just saying to isolate as many lines as possible but keeping one open, then filling the pump basket with water, replacing the lid and firing it up. Usually if there are too many lines open the pump will pull and pull and all you will get is a trickle. The initial surge when turning on the pump is always strongest, how far is the pool from the equip and what is the difference in the water line versus the elevation of the pool equip? There are two drain lines towards the bottom sidewalls of the pool plus two ports in the skimmer basin (one of which I know is a suction line), and the pool sweep. The equipment is about 90 feet from the skimmer and a foot or two above the water line. I ran a hose into the pump reservoir for a couple minutes but all I seem to be doing is filling the pool with water. The reservoir never overflows. I let the pump run for a couple minutes before shutting off. The system has worried for four years. On a side note, the pool is getting very green and full of mosquito larvae. It is a fiberglass shell. Can I add a gallon of liquid chlorine and brush the walls for a while without harming the fiberglass if I cannot get the pump to work? I don't have any valves that I can operate to isolate the lines. The only thing I can do is plug them up with plumbing test plugs. The pool will overflow before the skimmer line will fill up with water. Just leave one suction line open, close the skimmer(s)and the pool vac, leave just the main drain open then kick on the pump let it run to pull the water up, it should prime in a couple of minutes. I wouldn't recommend adding chemicals if you can not circulate them.
  7. Lots of good suction from the skimmer now. Wasn't Christy's brand - I can't remember the name but it begins with an O. Came in a kit of both the primer and cement. Now since doing this I'm having pressure issues on the filter. I'm having to backwash every 5 hours or so, or else I lose most of the suction in the skimmer. I don't know if this is normal but hopefully it will cease once the water clears. Can you send pic(s) of the equip and valving? After seeing what the skimmer line originally looked like, I wonder if any of the return plumbing is the flex as well, with kinks and loop? Or it could be you're getting a lot of residual debris out of that skimmer line since the repair?
  8. Lots of good suction from the skimmer now. Wasn't Christy's brand - I can't remember the name but it begins with an O. Came in a kit of both the primer and cement. Now since doing this I'm having pressure issues on the filter. I'm having to backwash every 5 hours or so, or else I lose most of the suction in the skimmer. I don't know if this is normal but hopefully it will cease once the water clears. Can you send pic(s) of the equip and valving? After seeing what the skimmer line originally looked like, I wonder if any of the return plumbing is the flex as well, with kinks and loop?
  9. I'm guessing you are not getting the pump adequately primed 'cause it certainly sounds like it's pulling fine. Have you tried isolating the suction side to one line or another to see if it will prime that way? If you do get it to pull, then open the other remaining line(s) slowly, and if it starts to cavitate when opening a particular line, then I would investigate that line further. The skimmer basin has two feeds. Just so I understand your suggestion, I should plug both lines at the skimmer basin, then fill the lines from the pump reservoir until full, then close the lid on the reservoir and then start the pump while unplugging one of the lines. If I get adequate suction, then slowly open up the other line. Correct? Don't plug anything, how many suction lines are there (skimmer, main drain, pool vac etc)? I'm just saying to isolate as many lines as possible but keeping one open, then filling the pump basket with water, replacing the lid and firing it up. Usually if there are too many lines open the pump will pull and pull and all you will get is a trickle. The initial surge when turning on the pump is always strongest, how far is the pool from the equip and what is the difference in the water line versus the elevation of the pool equip? There are two drain lines towards the bottom sidewalls of the pool plus two ports in the skimmer basin (one of which I know is a suction line), and the pool sweep. The equipment is about 90 feet from the skimmer and a foot or two above the water line. I ran a hose into the pump reservoir for a couple minutes but all I seem to be doing is filling the pool with water. The reservoir never overflows. I let the pump run for a couple minutes before shutting off. The system has worried for four years. On a side note, the pool is getting very green and full of mosquito larvae. It is a fiberglass shell. Can I add a gallon of liquid chlorine and brush the walls for a while without harming the fiberglass if I cannot get the pump to work? The pool will overflow before the skimmer line will fill up with water. Just leave one suction line open, close the skimmer(s)and the pool vac, leave just the main drain open then kick on the pump let it run to pull the water up, it should prime in a couple of minutes. I wouldn't recommend adding chemicals if you can not circulate them.
  10. Right on the money P/C, just one thing that should be noted, the guts might be rotated on the #3 valve. the way it is installed makes no sense otherwise (same as a tee and a two way or a gate). When a valve is set like that a plumber will unscrew the whole top and rotate where needed,in this case it would be...counterclock wise 1/4 turn. You should be able to feather between the main drain and skimmer. If the guts have not been rotated then the line going straight down is always wide open (guessing that's the main drain so the skimmer can be feathered)If you want to check, rotate that handle a 1/4 turn counter clockwise and see if the skimmer is workingor you can rotate 180 degrees counter from where it is now. Just something you should check out
  11. I'm guessing you are not getting the pump adequately primed 'cause it certainly sounds like it's pulling fine. Have you tried isolating the suction side to one line or another to see if it will prime that way? If you do get it to pull, then open the other remaining line(s) slowly, and if it starts to cavitate when opening a particular line, then I would investigate that line further. The skimmer basin has two feeds. Just so I understand your suggestion, I should plug both lines at the skimmer basin, then fill the lines from the pump reservoir until full, then close the lid on the reservoir and then start the pump while unplugging one of the lines. If I get adequate suction, then slowly open up the other line. Correct? Don't plug anything, how many suction lines are there (skimmer, main drain, pool vac etc)? I'm just saying to isolate as many lines as possible but keeping one open, then filling the pump basket with water, replacing the lid and firing it up. Usually if there are too many lines open the pump will pull and pull and all you will get is a trickle. The initial surge when turning on the pump is always strongest, how far is the pool from the equip and what is the difference in the water line versus the elevation of the pool equip?
  12. Magic Plastics, Inc. 25215 Avenue Stanford Valencia, California 91355 Phone: 661-257-4485 Toll-Free: 800-369-0303 Fax: 661-257-4425 Call them and ask
  13. It sounds like you have the pound in eyeballs. if the female part of the eyeball is left in the return outlet all you need is a hacksaw blade (18T) and a screwdriver (thin flat head)if it is not glued which they never should be. Cut the remaining female part lengthways (you will be cutting with the blade parallel with the inlet. It takes a little time but be patient and make sure you stop when the blade gets down to the actual inlet. If you go too far and put a small groove in that inlet don't sweat it, better that then cracking the inlet (which isn't a HUGE problem)when performing the next couple of steps. Make two groves about 1/4" apart, then take the screwdriver and pry out that small 1/4" piece, then the rest should come out quite easily.
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